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I can not for the life of me install adventuretech 2"+ brakeline. Just the top part going between forks to the first location. The problem is I can not get to the bolts to uninstall the original. There is another line from the block going back to somewhere under the tank. What do you do? Any video made or decent instructions. I do not have the manual so I can not see what is where. Those who have put them in, please reply and even send me an email to: [email protected]

Thanks
Jim
 

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Tried to call, no reply, but Rick did email me about getting help for installation. He put a request on this forum for people who did install to help out. Nice guy
 

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I remember it was tricky, and I went thru the trouble of unbolting the whole bracket that holds both blocks before discovering I didn't really need to. I did manage to get on the brake line fitting and loosen it. It was a little more tricky getting the new one on, and don't forget the little saucer shaped washer that goes in there. again, my memory isn't the best, but it seems there was a small bolt holding the brake line block to the bracket that holds them. I took that one out...now the block will move over a little allowing me to get a wrench from the bottom barely over the radiator and onto the brake line and loosen it. I dipped the little saucer shaped washer in brake fluid to help it stick in place while putting it back together, took me a few tries. Good luck
 

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Galfer was NO help. I even called them and they do not get involved with the 2" extended line due to they only made it for Adventure Tech. They will not help you
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What about the bleeding of the lines, especially having ABS. Is there something special I have to do to bleed it? Need to KNOW!
 

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Please forgive the simplistic nature of this, but it seems like the problem has to be one of two things. Not enough torque being applied to break the fittings loose or turning the in the wrong direction.

At this point you probably want to throw something at me, but that's all it can be.

As above in your case for further disassembly may be needed to get a good grip on the parts.

Suzuki is notorious for over torquing stuff. Unlike Honda and the others, they rely on a human operated assembly line. I swear some of the variation we see is dependent on which little old Japanese lady is on which station that day.
 

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Did you get this installed?
I bit the bullet and took off the rad. Made getting to the 10mm bolt super easy. I put off installing the line extension until I was ready to do a valve check where I would have the bike all apart. I also had the forks off to do a seal change.....seemed like the perfect time to do the brake line!
I can confirm the hard line compression fitting was very tight and required some effort to break it free.
 

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I installed mine in about 30 min.without removing any other part except old line.Now the bleeding was a little longer, but not bad with the banjo bleeder.
 

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hello, i was able to get my line on but as soon as i started bleeding the line it started leaking at the lower fitting. i am assuming i did not install this saucer looking washer, i have 3 washers and one tiny brass thing. does that small brass piece have to go inside between the 2 lower fittings?
 

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hello, i installed my 2' extension line but as soon as i started bleeding the brakes the line was leaking at the lower connection. i did not put a saucer looking seal there. i did receive a small brass piece that i wasn't sure what to do with and 3 washers. (2 of which went to upper connection. my question is does that small brass piece go inside between the lower fitting? I'm not sure what you mean by the saucer looking seal that you mentioned. if you can remember would appreciate your input.
 

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I ended up pulling the radiator to install mine as well. I waited until I had rounded off one of the fittings though, and as such had to order a new hard line to install. Just do it right and remove the things that are in the way, cutting corners will hurt later. (BTW I got the last hard line in the USA according to the dealerships I called to find it)

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
 

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Right, here's how it's done...

Pop the top on the master cylinder and remove the cover, plastic cover plate, and diaphragm. Head down to the (bike's) left front caliper and crack the valve. How you get the fluid out is your choice; I use a one-way bleeder valve from Motion Pro someone came up with just after inventing the wheel. It's that handy. Start drawing/pumping out fluid. Once you're pumping air, pop the banjo bolt up top and undo the brake line keeper on the lower triple-tree.

Seems everyone has trouble with the brake line's bottom end, just above the radiator. Leave the radiator mount alone until after you've got the hard line unscrewed from the back, above the radiator. You need to know two things about this fitting: 1) sit on the bike's left and turn the 10mm wrench down, toward the radiator to release the hard line. It will pop without breaking anything, but you won't have much throw. Now for 2) on my 2015 XT, the brake line mount (little silver block) is actually threaded for the mount bolt. I did not have a bolt-nylock combo like a lot of bikes. Rick was surprised at this. I sent him photos and called him, wondering why the Galfer line had a smooth hole instead of threads. Turns out, the '15 XT is special! Or at least mine is. An M6x25mm bolt and nylock nut, available at any Ace for under $2 total, proved the answer.

The little brass disc (olive inversor, in Galfer-speak) goes into the large hole at the new brake line's bottom end. A dab of brake fluid makes it stick (or fumble it into the jar of old fluid like I did.) Getting the hard line to thread into the new brake line is the tricky bit. I was able to reach in and gently coax the hard line fitting to thread in with two fingers, turning to my left. After that, it's all downhill. Route the line how you want it up through the cowl, don't forget the new brake line retainer on the triple-tree. Oh, and one of those copper crush washers? It's a spare. Use two up top and keep #3 around for a rainy day.

Not having a Mityvac, I rigged up a redneck solution using a cooking syringe and two sizes of tubing. It proved enough to suck-start the new fluid from the master cylinder. Then pump away until you've got clear fluid at the caliper. Lock the bleed valve, hop on, and see how cool it is to stop the bike with two fingers.

As for the Rox risers... eh, yeah. Left alone with only a longer brake line, my throttle was binding bad at full left and the clutch was hanging at full right. Things improved after I dismantled the cable ends at the bar and fished them back under the upper tree. Not by much, however. Both cables were pinched above the radiator, the clutch at full left and throttle at full right. A zip tie on each cable/wire bundle to keep the cables inside the fork tube, and a length of fuel line zip-tied to the clutch cable solved my issues. A lot of fiddling with the clutch-side wire bundle was needed, too, as it was pulled tight with the bars full right. Lowering the handle-bar zip tie on that side partially solved it. Removing the metal cable keeper from the tree solved the rest, giving me about a half inch of play.

Now I gotta do an evil, ugly thing... I have to ride it! :D
 
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