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Discussion Starter #1
The OEM bars were just a tad bit high for me so I orderd the Pro-Taper ATV Mid fat bars along with the risors to convert over the fat bar. Everything went on easy and the front brake hose is just a bit tight but nothing to be concerned about. I m 6'0 and this is the perfect setup and reach. Very happy with the results.
 

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I have heard of using a 7/8" atv bar that has a brace across it. that would give more strength if I tie the bike down tightly with tie downs and give me a place to hang more farkles on. I don't think it would matter if it was steel or aluminum.

That fat bar does look good though.
 

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How is the full lock clearance between the bars/controls/handguards, and the fairing with the lower bars?
 

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Hang on, did you rotate those risers *forward?*

You must have monkey arms. I'm a little taller than you, used to have 2" Rox risers, but they were rotated back about 15°-20°.

Tried it the other way when I got a Scott's damper (forced to), couldn't stand it, that's how I ended up with 3.5" Rox risers.

Those bars look to have much less sweepback than the OE bars. How are you liking that?
 

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My 650 has the Pro Taper ATVmid 7/8ths and no risers. I find them to be similar in height to OEM but much wider, and with less sweep.
That means my elbows are generally out more - like on a dirt bike. Looking back I should have cut a 1/2" off each side as they are so much wider but I have never got around to it.
BTW: I can remember one definite incident at speed on a wet dirt road when the extra leverage of the wider bars gave me the leverage to keep the bike upright. I am sure that with the narrower OEM bars I would have gone down.
 

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The OEM bars were just a tad bit high for me so I orderd the Pro-Taper ATV Mid fat bars along with the risors to convert over the fat bar. Everything went on easy and the front brake hose is just a bit tight but nothing to be concerned about. I m 6'0 and this is the perfect setup and reach. Very happy with the results.
Shepcam, Can you provide any part numbers for what you used in this setup Please ? :wink2:
 

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My 650 has the Pro Taper ATVmid 7/8ths and no risers. I find them to be similar in height to OEM but much wider, and with less sweep.
That means my elbows are generally out more - like on a dirt bike. Looking back I should have cut a 1/2" off each side as they are so much wider but I have never got around to it.
BTW: I can remember one definite incident at speed on a wet dirt road when the extra leverage of the wider bars gave me the leverage to keep the bike upright. I am sure that with the narrower OEM bars I would have gone down.
What you describe is a reason I was thinking of upgrading bars. A little extra control on dirt roads would make me feel better!

I don't think the Pro Tapers would work though because they're aluminum, and therefore have a thicker wall. If I use those, my Barkbusters are no longer going to fit. Is there a workaround for that? Preferably not involving purchase of additional hardware or adapters.
 

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What you describe is a reason I was thinking of upgrading bars. A little extra control on dirt roads would make me feel better!

I don't think the Pro Tapers would work though because they're aluminum, and therefore have a thicker wall. If I use those, my Barkbusters are no longer going to fit. Is there a workaround for that? Preferably not involving purchase of additional hardware or adapters.
Yes. That is why I got them. That and the fact that in my experience alloy bars flex more under vibration. With steel bars on my dirt bikes I used to get blisters.

You are correct about the 7/8" O.D. alloy bars having a smaller I.D. because of the thicker wall. What I did was to go to the auto parts store and find some fuel line that just fitted into the bar and used that to replace everything but the bolt and weight. From memory (it was a while back) I also needed to replace the OEM nut which also would not fit into the bar. Measure the inside of the bar and take the bolt and calipers to the auto parts store.

If I remember right I even needed to grind the six points off the replacement nut to get it in, and grind the inside face of the nut so that it would not slip against the rubber hose. I removed all the slack before inserting it into the bar. As I remember it was a bit of a struggle but it worked.

Five years or so and they have not been touched since install. I do not have barkbusters but you should still be able to install them. One end clamps onto the bar and the other has a hole that the weight bolt goes through. Assemble the bar weight with the barkbuster in it and hold the barkbuster while you slide it in the bar and tighten. Then bolt on the clamp end.
 

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What you describe is a reason I was thinking of upgrading bars. A little extra control on dirt roads would make me feel better!

I don't think the Pro Tapers would work though because they're aluminum, and therefore have a thicker wall. If I use those, my Barkbusters are no longer going to fit. Is there a workaround for that? Preferably not involving purchase of additional hardware or adapters.
I changed my bars to Pro Taper and it didn't bother me a bit to purchase new bar ends and inner clamps for my Barkbusters. They are available.
 

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I changed my bars to Pro Taper and it didn't bother me a bit to purchase new bar ends and inner clamps for my Barkbusters. They are available.
That's interesting. Do you have a link Highwayman?
I am thinking of doing the same to my Versys 300 as that now does most of the dirt duty.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
They are straight up from the stem, I dont have long arms but I do like to lean a little forward, takes the pressure off my back

Hang on, did you rotate those risers *forward?*

You must have monkey arms. I'm a little taller than you, used to have 2" Rox risers, but they were rotated back about 15°-20°.

Tried it the other way when I got a Scott's damper (forced to), couldn't stand it, that's how I ended up with 3.5" Rox risers.

Those bars look to have much less sweepback than the OE bars. How are you liking that?
 
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