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Discussion Starter #1
This is only the second time I've done this on the Strom, and it's
turning out to be just a huge a headache as the first.

I'm using the "race bike" method where you tweak the adjusters, then
spin the tire 3-4 times, and then verify alignment by checking
sprocket spacing in the links at the rear of the tire.

Thing is, after a gazillion iterations of this, I just can't seem to
get it aligned. Tweak one way just a touch, it's too far over to one
side. Then tweak back, and it's too far on the other side. Many times,
part of the chain will be too far left, while another part of the
chain will be too far right - regardless of the number of spins.

Then, to top it all off, as soon as I torque up the nut, it shifts
again, somewhat unpredictably. I've had to re-loosen the thing so
many frigging times I'm about to lose my mind.

What's the deal here? Should I be doing the adjustment with the nut
totally loose? Partially loose? How anal should I be about the
alignment of the sprockets.

Argh! This is driving me crazy!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
mike183 said:
Never heard of doing it this way.
Can't see this working. Too many variables. Sprockets are not always perfectly flat etc.
There are various other ways.
I always used the alignment marks that everyone says are not accurate.
Never had a problem.

Try this link for one method.
Mike

http://bikepoint.ninemsn.com.au/portal/alias__bikepointau/tabID__5766/BikeArticleID__117252/BikeTipType__Setup/DesktopDefault.aspx
That's the same way I do it. Never had a issue. These aren't race bikes, not need to be so particular, IMHO.
 

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I seem to rember reading in motorcyclist several years back about taking a good, long, strait edge and using that on the edge of the tire. See how far from the centerline of the fron tire you are then line the strait edge up on the other side of the tire and repeat. Dind out wich side is farther off and adjust accordingly. Never done it my self, always just count the flats of the adjustment screw as I adjust my chain but seems like it would work.

Goodluck!
 
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Discussion Starter #5
daveb196:

I think you are over analyzing your chain adjustment approach. There is plenty of tolerance in today's o-ring chains.

Align the hatch marks so they are even on both sides. Adjust it so the chain has at least 1/2" more play than the manual sais (causes less chain stretch and less adjustments going forward). Then tighten the axle. I have found that I may loose some play after tightening the axle. If this is the case, adjust play to compensate. Done!
 
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Discussion Starter #8
chain links

very nice links...
do u suggest kleenlink-brand as lub?
 

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I was close

I tried messing around with strings and things... I never could make it work.

Then I learned this method

This is how I do it now, works GREAT

http://www.ducatitech.com/info/wheelchange.html

See steps 11, 12, 13 and 14

Straight edge on the rear Sprocket. Line it up on the inner edge of the chain link.

Fool Proof
Simple
Precise
Just did mine Sunday and used my square on the outside of the chain. I'm going to buy some square bar today and check it.
 

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Check out the other threads on here about Master Mike's Spacers. On the Vee the rear sprocket doesn't run true - IMHO it's much more important to have the wheels correctly aligned. As said previously, modern chains are pretty tolerant.
Well done Tailgunner. Until this point there has been no mention of whether he's working on a V or a Wee.....and we still don't know, you just opened a new door on the discussion.
 

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I had my first replacement rear tire done by a dealer - they took the wheel and tire off - replaced the tire and put it all back on again. They did not align the rear axle too well and the result was noticeable wear on the side of the sprocket teeth. The chain was slightly chewed, but the sprocket teeth were well worn.

Since then, I always take the wheel off, have the tire changed, and re-install the assembly myself. It is a good time to check everything out - bearings, brakes, etc.


For the Wee:

I align the axle (must have centerstand or equivalent!) by spinning the rear wheel and seeing how fast the chain works itself to one side or the other. It is very important to make sure that the axle-holding brackets and adjusting screws are snug against the end of the swingarm. When you make an adjustment to loosen things (CCW, I think) you must use force or violence to push the axle closer to the motor - it does not go by itself. When you tighten, the adjuster pulls the axle back and it is naturally OK.

So make sure the axle assembly is snug against the adjuster assembly before tightening the axle nut.
 
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