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I'm about to switch handle bars . . .

2086 Views 16 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  19inches
It appears to be a straightforward enough process to take off the originals and put on Pro Taper SE ATV High Bars.

Does anyone have a word of advice before I attempt to switch over to the new bars? Any possible surprises that I need to prepare for? The info I've come up with is a bit sketchy on the details.
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It appears to be a straightforward enough process to take off the originals and put on Pro Taper SE ATV High Bars.

Does anyone have a word of advice before I attempt to switch over to the new bars? Any possible surprises that I need to prepare for? The info I've come up with is a bit sketchy on the details.
I considered the Pro Taper bars first and decided not to use them due to the smaller inner diameter of the bars. It would have required me having to make/find different nuts and expansion for my stock bar end weights. Instead, I went with MSR ATV High Bars. They were cheaper to buy and they fit with my stock bar end weights. They fit on without me having to change wiring or the front brake line although the brake line is a tight fit. I expect I will order a new longer front brake line (or an extension from SV Racing) before very long as it kind of bugs me.

If I had it to do over again, I would still go with the MSR's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
White towels are in place, Kick!

Doug: yup, I'm aware of the smaller inside diameter on the Pro Taper. I'm gonna go with them anyhow, since they're here, and will probably wind up having to buy the right size bar ends.

So, no one has encountered any other challenges worth noting? (Aside from lines maybe being tight)
 

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The Pro-Taper bars are thicker, hence the smaller inside diameter hole. Just get a drill of similar OD as the OEM bar ID and drill the ends. Drilling the material is quick and easy. Your new holes will be off center if your hand drilling, but don't sweat it. Bars don't bend at the outside.
 

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As other have said, the ID is smaller. I had to order a new Kaoko to fit. The bar-ends are easy to re-mount; there's a thread here somewhere on how to. You just need a long bolt, some gas hose, and a couple of nuts.

Grips, throttle, cables all fit without issue. So do the switches, but you have to locate and drill a hole for the positioning pins that are on each side. No big deal.

I think its well worth the effort. The OEM bars seemed very spongy by comparison. Also, the finish on the ProTapers is a lot more durable than the Suzuki paint.
 

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New bars also

I just bought my first V Strom. A 65000 mile DL1000 machine with a 6 inch long grade 5 bolt for a right foot peg. And a bit smashed fairing.
I plan on Farkling this baby out and riding it cross country both ways. I live on the East coast and after getting to the West I will need to get home.
I would like a set of bars that are slightly more forward and just slightly lower.
Any body have any advice. Oh and they have to look cool. Anodized I prefer Renthal and maybe some Fatbars.
Reading this website is part of the reason I bought the bike.
 

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I put Easton bars on - no issues. I bought some bar end inserts for aluminum bars from my dealer for $20 and used those to remount the OEM bar ends. I would not drill aluminum bars for the switch position pins, just dremel them off.
 

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If you use an ATV high bar with risers clutch cable length may become an issue. Assuming you were using these risers with your stock bars, you have already addressed the brake line.
 

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Do grips come off the old bars easily and are they in good enough shape to reuse on the new bars? (I haven't taken the plunge and switched bars yet.)
My old grips came off with some major tugging (got someone out there with you so you don't pull the bike over). Put them on the new bars (don't forget adhesive). They work well.
 

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I would like a set of bars that are slightly more forward and just slightly lower.
Any body have any advice. Oh and they have to look cool. Anodized I prefer Renthal and maybe some Fatbars.
I used a set of cheap Moose brand Hi-CR bend bars. They offer more forward and a little lower bend. In fact, they are about the most forward and lower that the fairing will allow. They just touch when turned to the steering stops.
 

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I'd recommend you cut off the old grips and get the pro grips dual sport grips. Nice.
 

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Do grips come off the old bars easily and are they in good enough shape to reuse on the new bars? (I haven't taken the plunge and switched bars yet.)
You can use spray alcohol to remove your grips. Spray alcohol is usually in a can with "ISO" in the name. Like ISOblast. Iso short for Isopropyl or alcohol.
Take the spray nozzle and force it up between the grip and the handlebar. It will come loose and slide right off. Same going on.
 

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I used a set of cheap Moose brand Hi-CR bend bars. They offer more forward and a little lower bend. In fact, they are about the most forward and lower that the fairing will allow. They just touch when turned to the steering stops.
I have been happy with every Moose product I have ever bought. I'll check out the bars. Thanks.
 
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