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Ignition switch removal, 2014 DL1000

2215 Views 7 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  hillsy
Gummed up and or worn ignition barrel issue, which means key won't go in all the way (most), so not turn to On. Other threads show how to fix the wafers, preceded of course by removal of switch itself. Other threads talk about Torx security bolts, but the mounting bolts on my 2014 1000 don't appear to have a bolt head - see pic. I think its because EU and Australian models (where I am) are slightly different to the US model. The manual says 'Remove the ignition switch mounting bolts (1) with a chisel' - what the hell?? What does that mean actually? Is what you see in the picture a plug or bolt cover of some sort or is it the bolt itself? If so, that means you have to undo it - but how? You can see I have tried to cut a slot in it for a screwdriver or to give purchase to chisel blade, but nothing much is happening. Anyone been here before and can help? Interestingly, the manual says 'when installing new bolts, tighten until the head breaks off'.
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Ah. The clue was in that last quoted sentence and the cross section drawing of the bolt they provided, showing a thin metal cap. Chisel be damned - be a bugger of a job. Out with the angle grinder to take most of the cap off each bolt, then put triple clamp back on the steering head bolt and with a driver, tap the switch off. Phew. Wish they gave us Aussies just normal bolts...... Now have to extricate the old bolts, then open up the switch body and do the cleaning and shaving of the wafers.
I would have expected the the ignition switch to have same Torx 40 security type bolts as on the earlier models.
Do remember to snap a few pix to share on the steps that you followed in removing and sorting out the ignition switch. Your write-up may come in as a handy guide for someone else in the future, faced with a simiilar task.
Like most cars they are snap bolts, that is when installed the head brakes off leaving nothing to put a tool on.

My Aussie V2 has them.

For a car I would suggest you put the key in and turn the ignition on while hitting the bolts, the jarring can cause a switch to fall apart so the key will never go back in, I guess the same should be done for a bike.

I assume you have removed the top triple clamp from the bike and have it in a vice, you use a hammer and punch to spin the bolt anticlockwise.
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Centre punch in the middle of the bolt head then drill the head off. Once you get the switch off you can use vice grips to back out what's left of the bolts. Then you can replace with whatever type of bolts you want (they dont have to be security / torx).
Was at a small local shop here getting new tires put on, he had a Hyabusa in there so I asked about it. It was a recovered stolen bike, thieves punched the ignition out so he was replacing the switch. Said they have security bolts so the heads snap off preventing easy swapping. Have to drill the bolt out and either easy out it and replace with a conventional bolt or re-thread for a new bolt.
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Thanks everyone. Successfully removed the switch assembly, and disassembled and serviced the internals as per this thread. Also shaved some metal off the key shoulders too, which helped it go in a bit further (which had been part of the problem). All reassembled now and has good action. One thing though would sort of like to know out of interest is what guides the key rotations to 'on', 'off', 'lock' etc. Is it the metal protrusions inside the barrel casing? And where is the electrical pickup for the system to know that 'on' position has been reached? In the very bottom of the casing under the spring?
Thanks everyone. Successfully removed the switch assembly, and disassembled and serviced the internals as per this thread. Also shaved some metal off the key shoulders too, which helped it go in a bit further (which had been part of the problem). All reassembled now and has good action. One thing though would sort of like to know out of interest is what guides the key rotations to 'on', 'off', 'lock' etc. Is it the metal protrusions inside the barrel casing? And where is the electrical pickup for the system to know that 'on' position has been reached? In the very bottom of the casing under the spring?
There is a ball bearing in the electrical part of the switch that locates the switch positions.
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