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Discussion Starter #1
Got a 2014 DL1000, and had the 11,000mile tune up a week ago. Am now (evening of 29 May) on a long trip. Bike had no problems until my last rest break about 70 miles from motel. Turned on the switch with the key, but got no display lights, and of course no start. Turned it several more times, and then it came on and started. So made my motel for the night. But now, no matter what I do, the key turning in the switch does nothing. Battery is good at 12.8 v. I find no wires loose, and the battery ground makes good ground to chassis. Am a long way from even a medium town. Any ideas? Tried WD40 in the switch, but no results.
 

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Do you have access to the wires coming off the keyed ignition? I wonder if it is possible to hard wire in a toggle switch to get it running. Since you managed to get it working by turning the key multiple times it would seem to be an ignition issue.

Maybe call your dealer and see if they can express ship you a new ignition to install? You would be stuck for a few days, but likely cheaper than towing the bike someplace although that is also an option.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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First make sure you haven't just burned out the main fuse.

It certainly sounds like a bad ignition switch though. If you need to hot wire the bike, you can access the following wires from under the seat at the main fuse area, fuse box, turn signal relay and ECM. The black/red, white, white/green and brown wires need to be connected to the battery positive. Now here is the tricky part. All the older V-Stroms have a 100 Ohm precision resistor that is not included in the wiring diagram as a theft prevention device. It looks like the Vee2 needs a resistor between the yellow/blue wire and battery negative. I can't guarantee that, but it's my best guess.

The resistor section of the switch may be working. If you have the switch on and connect the four wires I've outlined to battery positive, that may work.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, Bugzy and Greywolf. Got to keep moving, so no time to wait for shipping. I looked at they wiring around the fuse box, and if I were home with the tools it looks like I'd need, I might have tried that (in fact might try when I get home as an exercise). But looks like it's going toe the expensive tow. AMA covers a bit, but not much when a guys on a long trip through the West.
 

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Problem solved it was one of the 30 amps fuse.
The obvious question then is what caused the 30 amp fuse to blow? They generally don't fizzle just because. Were you working on the bike and shorted something out? Have electrical accessories been added with poor wiring practices? If there seems to be no cause, you could have some wiring that has rubbed through the insulation and is shorting to ground. Did you have the wiring recall done? Might be worth checking the bike over really well for a harness that has abraded. Be sure to pull the tank and check under there, too. Certainly if it happens again you have a problem that needs to be addressed right away.
 
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Well, I installed heated grips, accessory driving lights, battery tender quick connector, 2 USB port and a license plate light.
Everything with it's fuse and following the instructions for every single one.

So, I'm going to start the troubleshooting, will post results.
 

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Sure hope you find the reason and fix. Right now one of my five runners is down with the 30 blown. My so slow C50 has the same two 30s with one a spare under the seat. Blew one and replaced and less than three miles on next ride blew again. Now blows them as soon as put in with out a start up. With my last week trip and this cold spell have just let it set but need to round up my tester and look at the thing. Over 30,000 on top of the 6,000 on it when bought out of state and rode home. Never one penny spent on it but gas,tires,oil. Ran perfect so think for sure its just a wire? I am so bad at just parking them in old age if another is ok till perfect time for me to work on the sick one. 30 years ago would have worked till wee hours to get it going.:wink2:
 
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