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I would like to make the keyed ignition unnecessary.

1. I never use the accessory or steering lock functions.
2. Occasionally I leave my key on and drain the battery.
3. I haven't lost a key, but I know it is just a matter of time.
4. The ignition is starting to get sticky.
5. I ride over the winter, its getting cold and the ignition has frozen once.
6. Moreover, I am not fearful of someone stealing the Vee.

What is the best way to just take the keyed ignition out of the loop? Thanks in advance.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The switch has a 100 Ohm resistor wired in as an anti theft device that does not appear in the schematic. One needs to be included in any bypass system. DL Anti-Theft device
 

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I bypassed the ignition on a few of my previous vehicles (bikes too).

It all started when I broke a key in my car's ignition. I wired in a push-button for the starter (before that sort of thing was cool) and ran it through a relay that would supply power only with the headlights on. It's pretty much idiot/thief proof.

Of course you can't do that with a strom (the headlight is on with the key), but it might give you some ideas. Maybe you could relay the lights onto a circuit that's powered only with the engine running (if the strom has one of those, but don't use the tach signal).
 

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This is something I was thinking about recently. I do live in a high theft area, but I have been getting FI error code 42 all the time. As I understand it, the resistor is literally in the barrel, correct?

I think if it is even remotely exposed, it is causing some of my issues. My bike is parked outside over night until my wife can get her "garbage" out of the garage from storage.

Duck, I like the idea of having another way of starting the bike like you did with the headlights. Maybe an auxilary switch or something that leaves the 100K resistor out unless flipped. Seems simple enough.
 

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This is something I was thinking about recently. I do live in a high theft area, but I have been getting FI error code 42 all the time. As I understand it, the resistor is literally in the barrel, correct?

I think if it is even remotely exposed, it is causing some of my issues. My bike is parked outside over night until my wife can get her "garbage" out of the garage from storage.

Duck, I like the idea of having another way of starting the bike like you did with the headlights. Maybe an auxilary switch or something that leaves the 100K resistor out unless flipped. Seems simple enough.
I had C42 issues in a previous post. The battery had a lot to do with it, so I could see leaving your bike outside chilling the battery and causing the voltages to be low.

You can't just leave the 100ohm resistor out of the circuit. Its designed so that the bike LOOKS like its going to start just fine, except the FI light blinks after you try to start it. Leaving it out of the circuit would leave the headlights on.

If leaving the bike on and draining the battery is a driving requirement for your ignition replacement, then you're going to need some sort of timer circuit so that you can emulate turning the key for a few seconds before hitting the starter switch. You would then need to find a signal from the computer indicating that the motor is running so that you don't turn off the "key" while you're riding. This is the only way I can think of to ensure you don't need to do anything when you stop the bike (and thus are unable to leave the headlights on).

Now, the issue of leaving the key "on" and draining the battery is one thing, but have you considered that all of your other issues can be resolved simply by leaving the key in the ignition and never taking it out? Sometimes the simplest solutions are the best! Maybe add a 20 cent metal lanyard to the key so some teenger won't get the idea of taking your key and walking off with it.
 

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actually, if you're willing to deal with remembering to turn the ignition off, another option that might be available: remove the pins from the lock so you can turn it with a screwdriver! Then you can just leave a flat piece of metal in there to give you leverage to turn it on or off.
 

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An array of 5 or 6 buttons with 3 relays should be sufficient

Must press 2 specific buttons to arm turn on ignition power
Must press 3rd button to run starter if other it resets

last button shuts everything off resets. for bike off

worth it you decide but off course you are now dependent on a different system. If common relays though any autoparts store would have them
 

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Maybe

Got a small can of lock lube many moons (decades?) ago. Has graphite in it, along with a light lubricant, most of which seems to evaporate. Don't leave the Vee out in the weather, so don't know if it would solve your problem, but no iced-up car locks. I did notice on my Vee that someone had bent the little sheet-metal cover that slides over the key opening, so it didn't close, leaving the lock open to the elements. Did a bit of fine-tuning which solved that problem, so no opening to be blocked with ice. Curious how a gas cap lock gets froze. On my K2 there's a hinged metal cover over it. If your bike is constantly out in the wet, might be worth an occasional shot of WD-40 to drive out the moisture. I'm sure you could cobble some work-around for the ignition switch, but I gotta believe it is going to be more trouble-prone than what you've got.
 

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2008 DL1000 Theft attempt

While away on vacation someone tried to steal my Vee. My key will no longer insert into my ignition, and you can now see into the slot, I think there was a weather flap before. They must have tried a screwdriver or something. I did not have the ignition in the lock position as it was parked in my garage.

Anyways, OEM parts are expensive, can the switch be rebuilt with me keeping my original key? I don't want to have a different key for the ignition and a second for my gas cap and seat removal. Worst case I guess for one key is buying new for all three locations

Good news is they where unable to start the bike and had nothing to haul it with.

I searched for this problem and came up empty, I'm a bad searcher.
 

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Shawnstrom, Graywolf will probably know for sure, but if you can remove the gas cap and seat lock you can take them to a locksmith and have them match the pins to your new ignition key. (I suspect you may end up having to replace the ignition switch.) -You may be able to source an ignition switch with keys from a salvage, but I have no idea which years/part numbers apply. Again, Graywolf will likely have that info.

The cost will not be much to rekey the locks, but make sure your key works in them reliably after rekeying before you install the rekeyed locks on the bike, or much wailing and gnashing of teeth will ensue... (Don't ask me how I know...)
 

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While away on vacation someone tried to steal my Vee. My key will no longer insert into my ignition, and you can now see into the slot, I think there was a weather flap before. They must have tried a screwdriver or something. I did not have the ignition in the lock position as it was parked in my garage.

Anyways, OEM parts are expensive, can the switch be rebuilt with me keeping my original key? I don't want to have a different key for the ignition and a second for my gas cap and seat removal. Worst case I guess for one key is buying new for all three locations

Good news is they where unable to start the bike and had nothing to haul it with.

I searched for this problem and came up empty, I'm a bad searcher.

You could just pick up a set of locks from a salvaged strom. There are several on ebay
2002 2009 Suzuki DL1000 V Strom Lock Set Ignition Switch Gas Cap etc 5315 | eBay
 

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Since it happened in your garage, a house alarm may give you peace of mind. There are some that cost around 200-500 up front and then 15$ a month. Many insurance co will give a discount on homeowners ins as well. Good luck with the repair.


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