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Suzuki Vstrom DL650 2009
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello, i have a dl650 2009 , i have a problem with idle rpm , when i start the bike when is cold (15-20*c) the rpm go to 2000-2200 rpm and normally after 30s its should down to 1300 rpm, but sometimes rpm go to 2000rpm when start and down max 1700 rpm , when ride 10km max and stop in neutral the rpm go down 700-800-900 rpm and the engine stall.
p.s : i change all sparks(DENSO 24)
i change air filter
i clean all air tubes and sprins of throttle body.
i change fuel filter and clean tank and fuel pump.
when i go on dealer mode i see dhe -c00 is up , i adjust the tps with manual and go to -c00 in the middle.
i think is ok now , i start the bike rpm go to 2000 and for about 30s rpm go to 1300 rpm , i read the manual and this is okay , i ride about 3days and problem starts again.

p.s i bought the bike about 1 month ago.
i think to change the tps???
please any solution...
 

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Queensland, Australia
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With what you have done so far a worn TPS does sound very likely. Read these threads:
 

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Suzuki Vstrom DL650 2009
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hello,
today i test my strom, and result is this
i just adjust tps when is cold before start at -C00.
I start the bike and the rpm go to 1300+-100 but when i accerlate to 2500-3000rpm the -C00 go up but when i stop the gas it takes 2000 rpm+-100
the temperature is 2 bars
and when i accerlate to 3000-4000 and stop the rpm go to 800-900, but the -C00 stay up. after many times accerlating -C00 go down and is like stalling.

sorry for my english😒

i think is problem with tps is bad tps , because i controll the clutch switch with multimeter is ok , i test two wires on diode mode and give me 5xx and 1800. i start the bike with unmount switch from clutch cover for secure and i push the switch when start and again this problem .
im so sad with my vstrom because i had about 1 month with him and i bought with so happinies.
Im IT Network but, i read so much and practic at my friend motobike service, but he dont know v strom haha. in albania dont have so information for electric problems , we’re only mechanicans haha. i read the service manual for vstrom dl650 2007-2011 for 3 days 700 pages.


please any help , i think to buy a new tps from ebay or anything else .
thank u
 

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It does seem like it might be the TPS sensor which is fairly common problem and easy to replace. On the 2009 Wee throttle body the secondary throttle valve sensor and the primary valve sensor (the one that you set to control idle and the -c00 mark) are the same but wear differently. Some riders have sucessfuly swapped these sensors to fix idle issues. The secondary sensor is set by voltage so the procedure is a little different and is discussed in the manual.

Also, before and after replacing or adjusting the primary TPS sensor you should try the procedure to reset the Idle Speed Control (ISC) valve.

BTW, welcome to the forum ;-) You should post an intro to the new members forum and add your bike and year to your sig.
 

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Suzuki Vstrom DL650 2009
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
h
It does seem like it might be the TPS sensor which is fairly common problem and easy to replace. On the 2009 Wee throttle body the secondary throttle valve sensor and the primary valve sensor (the one that you set to control idle and the -c00 mark) are the same but wear differently. Some riders have sucessfuly swapped these sensors to fix idle issues. The secondary sensor is set by voltage so the procedure is a little different and is discussed in the manual.

Also, before and after replacing or adjusting the primary TPS sensor you should try the procedure to reset the Idle Speed Control (ISC) valve.

BTW, welcome to the forum ;-) You should post an intro to the new members forum and add your bike and year to your sig.
hello
thank u i will try tomorrow this procedure and tell u
and thank u very much
best regards
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi, please one question , when i adjust tps , switch ignition should be on or off?
bike cold or not?

thank u
do u have any video or something else
thank u again
good night
 

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Hi, please one question , when i adjust tps , switch ignition should be on or off? Bike cold or not?
Bike only needs to be warmed up for setting the -c00 position for the primary sensor.

To get to the secondary throttle valve sensor you are going to need to remove the tank and the airbox. If you haven't done this before it is a bit involved. Your manual should cover all the steps to do that (it is like following a cookbook) but do a site search for tips or YT search for vids for each step if not clear. Once you have access you'll want to move the primary sensor to the secondary location. Be sure to mark them so you don't mix them up. The secondary sensor position is set manually using a voltmeter so with the ignition on (motor not running) the sensor output is 0.6V with the secondary valves closed. Tighten the screw and then double check the output voltage.

At this point you can install the primary sensor (i.e. what was the secondary sensor in the primary location) and just set it in the middle of its range and button up the bike but leave the tank lifted. The procedure for setting the primary sensor involves warming the bike, putting it in dealer mode and getting the -c00 symbol to move correctly with RPM per the manual. Lots of discussion here on how to do that and probably some YT videos too.

BTW, the screws on the sensors use security allen screws, they have a post in the middle, so standard allen wreches won't work. Also, if you verified that the clutch switch is working be sure that it is plugged in when you set the primary sensor because a bad or unplugged clutch switch can mess with the idle.

BTW2, if this is your first time pulling the tank, airbox, etc. take your time and follow the manual as closely as you can. Verify that you have the right tools to do the job (e.g security allen bits). Take pics because there are a lot of hoses, tubes and sensors plugged into the airbox and one very common problem after reinstalling the airbox is a FI (fault indicator) light when something gets missed on reassembly. I've pulled my tank and airbox too many times to count and I could do this service in ~2hrs but if this is your first time it could take 2x or more time than that.

The best thing to do is write up all the major steps with references to the page in the manual that discusses it to prepare. Post questions or do a search if any of the steps are unclear. One caveat is that you are going to be disturbing parts that probably haven't been touched in a long time so if this is your primary means of transportation you might want have a back up plan if things go awry and something breaks or you need additional parts, tools, etc. Prep is the key here. Another caveat is that it might not work but it has worked for others so you are not pioneering here. If the idle symptoms remain the same after the sensor swap then you'll need to take a step back and consider other causes.
 
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From your comment in #3 above, "i controll the clutch switch with multimeter is ok , i test two wires on diode mode and give me 5xx and 1800. i start the bike with unmount switch from clutch cover for secure and i push the switch when start and again this problem ." , are you saying that when you test with the clutch switch disconnected (once started) there is no problem with the idle speed when warm?
I'm thinking that if the clutch switch is left shorted out, the idle circuit goes out of wack.. Clutch Switch Override (2007 and up)
Any chance that something may be keeping the clutch switch operated all the time, when the connector is plugged in to position? Perhaps see whether you can start the bike without pulling in the clutch with the bike in neutral (out of gear)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hello,
U say to switch Tps and Stps with each other ???
Stps in which wires give 0.6V??
but soo thankk uu so much for the help u are the best tomorrow or max wednesday i will try to test this .

u think after the switching tps problem is gone?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hello , when i change the sensors and to adjust dhe primary tps i need to start the bike to warm up or not ? just tu switch ignition on and dealer mode to adjust him?
 

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Hello , when i change the sensors and to adjust dhe primary tps i need to start the bike to warm up or not ? just tu switch ignition on and dealer mode to adjust him?
From my service manual. The special tool is to bridge the service plug.
Font Motor vehicle Machine Engineering Automotive wheel system

You must surely have already found the diagnostic plug.
 

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I would not advise anyone to swap / exchange the TPS with the STPS, without first understanding the procedure on how to readjust the STV butterfly / throttle plate setting in relation to the STPS sensor.

Please note: This is not a task for someone that does not have or pehaps lacks the necessary skill set!!

Basically both sensors have to be physically dismounted from their currect position on the throttle body, for the swap over to take place. It is not just a simple matter of swapping the sensor connectors.

For more on the STV butterfly adjustment, have a look at have a look at the procedure as explained in Secondary Throttle Plate Adjustment, Secondary throttle valve stuck & fixed and in the service manual.

WARNING: DON'T ATTEMPT TO MOVE THE SECONDARY THROTTLE PLATES BY HAND ON A DL650 - USE THE NUT LOCATED AT THE FRONT THROTTLE !!
 

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Please note: This is not a task for someone that does not have or pehaps lacks the necessary skill set!!
Agreed but like a lot of moto repairs getting to the problem part is more than half the battle. Swapping the sensors and setting the secondary sensor position on a Gen1B (2007-2011) is easy once you get there. One key is to have the service manual to follow carefully.

WARNING: DON'T ATTEMPT TO MOVE THE SECONDARY THROTTLE PLATES BY HAND ON A DL650 - USE THE NUT LOCATED AT THE FRONT THROTTLE !!
I think the throttle body in the pic in that thread is from from an early Gen1, maybe a 2006? You can tell because the secondary and primary sensors are not the same in the pic. OP's bike is a 2009 so it is a Gen1B so the sensors are identical and you can move the secondaries by hand without damage, there is no adjustment nut on the later bikes.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Bike only needs to be warmed up for setting the -c00 position for the primary sensor.

To get to the secondary throttle valve sensor you are going to need to remove the tank and the airbox. If you haven't done this before it is a bit involved. Your manual should cover all the steps to do that (it is like following a cookbook) but do a site search for tips or YT search for vids for each step if not clear. Once you have access you'll want to move the primary sensor to the secondary location. Be sure to mark them so you don't mix them up. The secondary sensor position is set manually using a voltmeter so with the ignition on (motor not running) the sensor output is 0.6V with the secondary valves closed. Tighten the screw and then double check the output voltage.

At this point you can install the primary sensor (i.e. what was the secondary sensor in the primary location) and just set it in the middle of its range and button up the bike but leave the tank lifted. The procedure for setting the primary sensor involves warming the bike, putting it in dealer mode and getting the -c00 symbol to move correctly with RPM per the manual. Lots of discussion here on how to do that and probably some YT videos too.

BTW, the screws on the sensors use security allen screws, they have a post in the middle, so standard allen wreches won't work. Also, if you verified that the clutch switch is working be sure that it is plugged in when you set the primary sensor because a bad or unplugged clutch switch can mess with the idle.

BTW2, if this is your first time pulling the tank, airbox, etc. take your time and follow the manual as closely as you can. Verify that you have the right tools to do the job (e.g security allen bits). Take pics because there are a lot of hoses, tubes and sensors plugged into the airbox and one very common problem after reinstalling the airbox is a FI (fault indicator) light when something gets missed on reassembly. I've pulled my tank and airbox too many times to count and I could do this service in ~2hrs but if this is your first time it could take 2x or more time than that.

The best thing to do is write up all the major steps with references to the page in the manual that discusses it to prepare. Post questions or do a search if any of the steps are unclear. One caveat is that you are going to be disturbing parts that probably haven't been touched in a long time so if this is your primary means of transportation you might want have a back up plan if things go awry and something breaks or you need additional parts, tools, etc. Prep is the key here. Another caveat is that it might not work but it has worked for others so you are not pioneering here. If the idle symptoms remain the same after the sensor swap then you'll need to take a step back and consider other causes.
Hello ,
Last night , i tried what u told me.I switched the STPS with TPS , after doing i adjusted the tps in -C00 and the stps with full closed butterfly 0.6(Y+ , B/Br-).I turn the engine on and the fast idle reached 2200rpm and after 20-30s rpm went down to 1300 +-50 . I put the bike on dealer mode and tested -C00 , on accelereating till 2500 rpm the -C00 going UP , and release the gas , the idle went to 1300rpm +-50 . Sometimes when i try this , the idle goes to 1100rpm and then goes up after 2 second to 1300 rpm. Is this normal or do i need to adjusted something else? however i think this is normal. I rode the bike today morning and i tried and check the idle and it was normal.

Btw , thank u very much
Best Regards.
 

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Last night , I tried what [you] told me. I switched the STPS with TPS, after doing [that], I adjusted the TPS to -C00 and the STPS with full closed butterfly to 0.6V (Y+ , B/Br-). I turn the engine on and the fast idle reached 2200 rpm and after 20-30s rpm went down to 1300 +-50. I put the bike on dealer mode and tested -C00, on accelereating till 2500 rpm the -C00 going UP, and release the gas, the idle went to 1300rpm +-50.
Victory!

Sometimes when I try this, the idle goes to 1100 rpm and then goes up after 2 second to 1300 rpm. Is this normal or do I need to adjusted something else? However I think this is normal. I rode the bike today morning and I tried and check the idle an it was normal.
I forget what the manual says but the -C00 mark should jump up at an RPM lower than 2500. Do a search but most riders get it to jump between 1800-2000 RPM because it varies between bikes but from what I understand lower is better. It is a touchy adjustment and can take a few tries to get it right. Also, did you do the ISC valve reset procedure that I linked in post #4? That may help the idle issues too and should be done after you adjust the TPS.

The bike also probably needs to have the idle-air screws adjusted or what Suzuki calls a throttle body sync which is a misnomer. On the K7+ bikes you should never touch the throttle linkage screws as that will wreck the throttle body. Pre-K7 bikes had a procedure to adjust the linkage screws but dropped that procedure for the K7+ bikes but kept the name the same, unfortunately. However, there is an adjustment procedure for idle-air screws on K7+ bikes but it requires a special Suzuki tool called SDS. Also, on these older bikes the idle-air screws are often frozen and riders have cracked their throttle bodies or stripped the screws trying to break them free. If getting the -C00 mark to jump at a lower RPM and doing the ISC valve reset helps then it is probably best to leave the idle-air screws alone if you can live with the idle dropping a bit.

BTW , thank [you] very much
No problem, glad that it worked. You might want to see if you can pickup a used position sensor in case the you have problems down the road.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Victory!



I forget what the manual says but the -C00 mark should jump up at an RPM lower than 2500. Do a search but most riders get it to jump between 1800-2000 RPM because it varies between bikes but from what I understand lower is better. It is a touchy adjustment and can take a few tries to get it right. Also, did you do the ISC valve reset procedure that I linked in post #4? That may help the idle issues too and should be done after you adjust the TPS.

The bike also probably needs to have the idle-air screws adjusted or what Suzuki calls a throttle body sync which is a misnomer. On the K7+ bikes you should never touch the throttle linkage screws as that will wreck the throttle body. Pre-K7 bikes had a procedure to adjust the linkage screws but dropped that procedure for the K7+ bikes but kept the name the same, unfortunately. However, there is an adjustment procedure for idle-air screws on K7+ bikes but it requires a special Suzuki tool called SDS. Also, on these older bikes the idle-air screws are often frozen and riders have cracked their throttle bodies or stripped the screws trying to break them free. If getting the -C00 mark to jump at a lower RPM and doing the ISC valve reset helps then it is probably best to leave the idle-air screws alone if you can live with the idle dropping a bit.



No problem, glad that it worked. You might want to see if you can pickup a used position sensor in case the you have problems down the road.
Hello,
Thank u again for everything , if something comes up my mind or i have any further questions to discuss with u, i will let u know.
Best regards.
 
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