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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I'm getting frustrated....
Removed the axel nut from the left side (shift side)
Removed chain tensioner bolts.
Removed speed sensor
Remove brake caliper bolt.
Axel will slide for and aft just fine.
Axel head will not turn.
Axel will not move toward the required exit at all.

What am I missing?
 

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Shouldn't have to remove the tensioner bolts, I wonder if it's just cockeyed and binding with those bolts removed.
 

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My 2013 the nut is on the right (brake side). I have heard some turn them around and can't say if the 17 is different. Your chain is loose or off sprocket? Wack the axle with something softish or tap with something hardish? Weight of rear wheel is hanging on it so maybe little lift on the wheel. You do have the bike supported via center stand, stand or lift? kfh000
 

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You can put the nut back on the axle to protect the threads and whack that with a hammer.
I prefer to use a hard plastic mallet or a rubber mallet when getting serious with a item like the axle.
When you finally get it loose be sure to grease the axle before reinstalling. I've had them rust to the bearings before. It took a fair amount to coercion to break it loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I started with just the axel nut loose. Didn't make any progess.
Started removing bits and pieces as I went, thinking maybe I'm just stupid.

Rear wheel is off the ground. I've tried supporting it with my foot and whacking it with a 2lb dead blow hammer.
I'm hoping it will eventually break loose with continued application of wd40 and a the hammer.
 

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If you're going to spray a solvent in there, I'd probably set the bike back down on the side stand and spray the solvent in from the uphill side. Gravity will be your friend, and help the solvent penetrate further. I usually use PB Blaster when it comes to a stuck part, and if it's stuck this bad, I'd spray it and let it sit for an hour before I tried whacking it again; let the solvent do its work.

This wouldn't be the first time I've heard of an axle seizing to a wheel. I got in the habit of smearing my axles with anti seize before I reinstalled them.
 

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My guess would also be a bearing that's somehow sticking to the axle. If you've given the axle enough room to move forwards and backwards (chain loose, chain adjusters all the way forward) it should just slide right out.

Like others said, some penetrating lubricant (WD-40 or similar) and/or lifting the wheel a bit so that there's no weight acting on the axle itself and/or some gentle persuasion with a large hammer should do the trick.

If you eventually get it loose but needed quite a bit of force to get it loose, make sure you inspect all three wheel bearings for damage. They should rotate with virtually zero resistance, and there should not be any lateral or axial play in them. (Note that there's three of them: Two on the wheel hub itself, and one on the sprocket carrier.)

And put some grease on the axle before reinstalling it.
 

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Letting it sit long enough for the wd 40 to work. most likely. Anti seize is your friend here.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah the WD40 was probably key, and continued application of the 2 pound hammer. I would get it out 1/4", spray and wait a little, then tap it back in, beat it back out. Tap it back in, beat it back out a 1/2".
Repeat until it came out.

I cleaned up the axle, and all of the associated holes. Applied some good marine grease I side, outside, and eventually all over everything....

The axle will now slide in and out with just some wiggle and elbow grease.
 

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Yeah the WD40 was probably key, and continued application of the 2 pound hammer. I would get it out 1/4", spray and wait a little, then tap it back in, beat it back out. Tap it back in, beat it back out a 1/2".
Repeat until it came out.

I cleaned up the axle, and all of the associated holes. Applied some good marine grease I side, outside, and eventually all over everything....

The axle will now slide in and out with just some wiggle and elbow grease.
I would use anti seize lube not marine grease. That is what Harley says to put on my RK axle and I use it on the Strom too. Holds up better to the heat. Just my two cents.
 

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Took some effort to get it out. Celebrating now, but I'll inspect everything before I put it back together.
Not an idiot at all then. In fact, kudos to you for just not going berserk and bashing the crap out of everything before asking. kfh000
 

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Fyincut, if you're still reading this, here's the anti-seize I use:

https://www.permatex.com/products/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-anti-seize/permatex-anti-seize-lubricant-2/

I've been using it on the axles since I owned the V-Strom, and they always slide out with no problems, and it cuts down on corrosion too. I don't buy it in the bottles, though; I bought a small tube of it at an auto parts store years ago, and I'm still using the same tube. You don't need to slather it on the axle; I just put some on my finger and rub a thin coat all over the axle.
 

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I've got a can of 50 year old Axle grease. Nasty heavy strandy stuff I've been packing wheel bearings and lubing thing with.
I'm sure there are better things to use but if you give the axle a swipe when you change tires, it will stay somewhat fresh and not rust/weld itself to the bearings.
I'd use bear grease but we don't have any bear to hunt in the city no mo.
As RC suggested, it only takes a light film to keep things good.

Fynlcut, good thing this happened at home and you could work it out. It would have been a real bother on the road with a flat and a need to change it.
 

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Make sure you put anti-seize on the axle threads as they are prone to galling.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks again fellas. anti sieze is on the list to buy.
I had a small pack for a brake job on my car that I have been able to hold off on. I'm lucky to put 500 miles a year on it since the Vstrom came into my life.

Notacop, you are correct, lucky I found it at home and not out on the road/trail.....
 
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