Any sort of loctite, you cook the bolt to 450f or 550f. Melts. Good luck, that looks cunty to do.
I was so close……but then…..
Thanks too the “how to’s,” and answers to various questions I’ve posted here, I set to work today to finish the chain and front and rear sprocket replacement job that I started last weekend. I ran into an issue last weekend with a hex bolt holding the speed sensor rotor onto the exterior of the front sprocket. I broke an Allen wrench (had it gripped in some vice grips to try and break the bolt loose, and instead broke the Allen wrench) in the process, so this past week, picked up a 6 mm hex socket for a half inch drive, and today, put that on the breaker bar, and was able to break the nut free. As an aside, I used 18 inch bolt cutters to cut through a link on the old chain to get it off. Had no problem snipping through one side, and then the second side.
Everything was going quite well, and I was really just buttoning everything up at the end, when I saw in the service manual that the speed sensor rotor hex bolt should be torqued to specific amount. I had tightened it quite tightly with a ratchet, but I had not seen the torque specification. So I took my 24 inch long torque wrench and set it to the specified torque (which was way low on the scale that this 24 inch wrench was capable of), and I started cranking to tighten it. It wasn’t giving me the ping to let me know that it was tight, so I cranked a few more times, and then it snapped the head right off the bolt.
So I put everything away for the day, and will run to the hardware store to get a bolt extractor tomorrow, and hopefully I’ll be able to get it out. Unfortunately, I put some blue Loctite on it, since it seemed to have Loctite on it when I was removing it. I have a feeling that’s going to make it considerably harder to extract.
Does anyone have a suggestion for an extractor kit that will be able to extract a bolt that has blue Loctite on it? And any suggestion for how best to get a grip on the end of the extractor to try to undo the bolt? I haven’t used a bolt extractor for about 25 years, so I don’t even really remember what the end looks like. Does it have a square and that could fit a socket?
Here’s a picture of the location of the broken bolt. It’s right in the center, and probably recessed about a quarter inch.
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting]()
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Rim Automotive wheel system]()
I was so close! Grrrrr….
Doug
Everything was going quite well, and I was really just buttoning everything up at the end, when I saw in the service manual that the speed sensor rotor hex bolt should be torqued to specific amount. I had tightened it quite tightly with a ratchet, but I had not seen the torque specification. So I took my 24 inch long torque wrench and set it to the specified torque (which was way low on the scale that this 24 inch wrench was capable of), and I started cranking to tighten it. It wasn’t giving me the ping to let me know that it was tight, so I cranked a few more times, and then it snapped the head right off the bolt.
So I put everything away for the day, and will run to the hardware store to get a bolt extractor tomorrow, and hopefully I’ll be able to get it out. Unfortunately, I put some blue Loctite on it, since it seemed to have Loctite on it when I was removing it. I have a feeling that’s going to make it considerably harder to extract.
Does anyone have a suggestion for an extractor kit that will be able to extract a bolt that has blue Loctite on it? And any suggestion for how best to get a grip on the end of the extractor to try to undo the bolt? I haven’t used a bolt extractor for about 25 years, so I don’t even really remember what the end looks like. Does it have a square and that could fit a socket?
Here’s a picture of the location of the broken bolt. It’s right in the center, and probably recessed about a quarter inch.
I was so close! Grrrrr….
Doug
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Here's a thread the OP started back on June 13th about torque wrenches.
Is there a shorter version of this torque wrench?
I need to make some adjustments to (or possibly replace) the chain on my 650 XT. I saw that the rear axle nuts need to be torqued to something like 145 Newton meters (or 150 foot pounds—don’t have the service manual in front of me). I bought this wrench, and when it arrived, was a bit shocked...
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As they say, you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink!
Although the bolt broke, the speed sensor rotor itself
In fairness to myself, I was trying very hard to do things "the right way." I have two torque wrenches, the smaller one didn't have a high enough torque capability for the speed sensor rotor bolt, so I opted for the Big Mama (the huge 24 incher). It was my first time ever using a click-style torque wrench, and I effed up. But only through ignorance, and sometimes that's the way we have to go to learn.Here's a thread the OP started back on June 13th about torque wrenches.
Is there a shorter version of this torque wrench?
I need to make some adjustments to (or possibly replace) the chain on my 650 XT. I saw that the rear axle nuts need to be torqued to something like 145 Newton meters (or 150 foot pounds—don’t have the service manual in front of me). I bought this wrench, and when it arrived, was a bit shocked...
As they say, you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink!
As to the question of why I can't just remove the sprocket to try to get a wrench/etc. on the broken bolt: to remove the sprocket, I'd have to remove the sprocket nut (and washer), to remove the sprocket nut, I'd have to remove the speed sensor rotor, and there was apparently enough of the broken bolt's thread in contact with the rotor that it is securely being held in place, so I can't turn it or pull it off, due to the broken bolt. Thus, no sprocket removal.
Later today, I'm gonna pick up a set of left-hand drill bits and screw extractors, and a tap wrench, and a center punch, and say a few prayers. I'll update this thread with the outcome.
Doug
Suzuki 07130-0825B - BOLT | Partzilla.com
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Looking at @oldjeep's pic, you want an M6/1.0x8mm Allen head bolt M=metric, 6 =6mm,1.0 = thread pitch (distance between threads), x 8=8mm long thread. If when you get to the big box store, that looks to long or too short, buy an extra -x6mm long or x10mm long; they're cheap and they only come in even number lengths.View attachment 305150
So, looks like 25mmSuzuki 07130-0825B - BOLT | Partzilla.com
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24" torque wrench on a 6mm bolt is like swatting flies with a 105mm Howitzer. My rule of thumb is I don't use the lower 10 or upper 10lb/ft15Nm of its range; I just don't trust the accuracy at the extreme limits. I go to a lb in/Nm torque wrench below that number, and for teeny-tiny torques, <7Nm, finger tight to "about there."Above 90lb ft, I get out my rattle gun, set it to 150 lb ft and hammer it "about that long." Caveat: head bolts or rod bolts with such torques require a torque wrench in the proper range, but axles, lug nuts etc an impact driver is good.
I wager that your torque wrench(es) has a rotating collar that has fractional gradations. When the torque is for example 28 .5 lb ft, and the stamped numbers on the shank go from 25 to 30 lb ft, start with the collar at 0 on the 25 mark and rotate the collar to 3.5. if there is no decimal number on the collar go to the next whole number, 24 in this case; you'll never strip or gall threads going 1/2 lb ft over, but under, it might start backing itself out. Some Nm/lb in torque wrenches have oddball numbers on the Nm scale, so be careful adding and subtracting decimals! Confirm that you are using the desired scale stamped on the shank and the collar; 7.5 lb ft = 10Nm and could cause damage where 7.5Nm is called for.
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