The cam is a likely place to get damage from low oil pressure.
A used motor would be the easy fix.
A used motor would be the easy fix.
is this fixable without splitting the case or is it just a case of “you could fix it but a used motor is cheaper”The cam is a likely place to get damage from low oil pressure.
A used motor would be the easy fix.
I appreciate you response and this is kind of where my thoughts were taking me as well. I suppose it’s a matter of spend money on a bandaid and pray something doesn’t break in 10 miles or just shell out the time and dollars and replace the whole thing for peace of mind.If the damage really is ONLY in the top end, then in theory you could replace the heads, cylinders, camshafts, pistons & rings, timing chains/gears/guides, or whatever combination of those parts you find to be unusable. Who knows, you might be good to go, and ride it for another 400,000 miles.At this point, though, if you were running it and it was making strange noises, I’d say it’s anyone’s guess whether or not the bottom end sustained any destruction. If that happened, then you would end up splitting the case to make that kind of repairs.
Mind you, I don’t know for sure what level of engine damage your particular engine has now, just laying out a couple scenarios for you to consider...
Exactly! Drain and strain the oil and cut open the oil filter. If you’ve got metal or small flakes in oil and the filter, it’s a problem. If not….then replace the filter and refill with fresh oil. Then check the compression.You need more information. Try a compression check and cut the oil filter open and look inside.
If you turned off the engine as soon as the oil light came on you should be OK. If you ran for more than a minute or two without oil it's anybody's guess.
Things to consider that don't cost much. Pull the plugs and look at them. Run a compression check. Cut the oil filter open and look inside for shavings, grit, etc.
That squealing could be a bearing's race rotating on the aluminum head or a steel shaft (e.g., camshaft) because the bearing seized. Pull the valve covers and check the parts. Whether or not the top end failed first it is the easiest to check.
Time to get your hands dirty and wrenches greasy.
I wouldn't call myself an expert, but here are a few things to think about.So I have found a couple motor options on eBay. One is from an 06 with 30k miles. It comes with a bunch of extra bits still attached such as oil cooler injectors, fuel line, intakes, clutch slave and line and Looks like most of the wiring is there as well. $700
another is from a 2002 with 40k that’s pretty much a bare motor but the exhaust stud heads have broken off (should be relatively easy to weld a bolt on them and pull) $500 have heard it run on video and it sounds fine.
there’s an 04 as well with 26k bare motor. Heard it run as well and it sounds really good. But it’s $850.
My question is: should I go for the direct swap with the 02 motor because it’s less of a hassle or would a lower mileage motor from a newer bike be a better option? And if I go with the newer one how much extra work/parts will I need to do to make them compatible?
I read through another post on here and it seemed like the stator might be an issue and also the ECU.