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I smell a fuel leak - any comon failure point culprit?

2660 Views 17 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  phog
'05 DL650, 60,000 miles. The fuel smell is most evident after shutting off the engine after a ride, and seems to be emenatind more frfom the right side of the bike. No obvious leak. No hoses have ever been replaced. If I start taking things apart, what kind/sizes of hoses should I be buying? What factory parts? Any clues about where to look first?
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I'm going to tackle this myself when I have the free time. I have smelled gas for a while, but finally seeing a little in the V of the engine.

While tank is off, change air filter and spark plugs.
If it's not a puncture in the fuel tank, check the short fuel injection hose that connects the main supply hose to the fuel injectors. The hose should be replaced
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every 4 years according to the service manual. You'll need 7 mm ID fuel injection hose and 2 fuel injection hose clamps.
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Seconding what TAC PRO said. And emphasizing that you NEED FI specific hose and clamps. There's quite a bit of discussion about this bit of upkeep on this forum. Not uncommon.
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If the Wee is anything like the Vee, this is totally common and a pain to fix. Tank and airbox off. Velocity stacks off. You have to get down to the injectors where you will see a 3" rubber hose that needs replaced. It's on the right in this picture. Be careful of the brass screws, they're soft.

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Yes, those screws are prone to giving trouble. But they're steel. The trouble comes from using Phillips screwdrivers. They are JIS, not Phillips. Grab one of these:

You'll be glad you did for as long as you own Japanese motorcycles.
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An impact screwdriver is the easiest way to loosen those screws. You only have to remove one injector, assuming that's what's causing the fuel leak.

Are you smelling a fuel leak, or are you smelling an overly rich mixture? They are fairly similar. If you have a PC5 or anything else that influences the fuelling of your bike you could be running a rich mixture at idle and smell that.

But if it's indeed fuel, there's only so many places where neat fuel can realistically escape. The hoses above are a good start, but here's the complete list:
  • Tank cap/vent
  • Hole in tank itself
  • Fuel pump gasket
  • Long fuel hose from the pump to the first injector, and its connectors
  • Short crossover fuel hose to second injector and its clamps
  • Rubber "cushion" / o-ring underneath the injectors

Also, if you overfill the tank (fuel above the bottom of the filler neck) and the fuel expands (due to, say, heat expansion), it may push past the fuel cap seal and make its way into the groove around the fuel filler neck. From there there's a drain hole that connects to a pipe through the tank, and from the bottom of the tank there's a rubber hose extending all the way down below the engine where the fuel can drip to the ground. This system ensures that no spilled liquid fuel can make its way onto a hot engine surface and ignite.
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I didn't remove any injector to put the new hose on. That was 4 years ago, still holding
Incidentally, it needs to be replaced with high pressure fuel hose, not just 'fuel hose' and ideally use the expensive clamps to avoid cutting into it.
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Use the clamps, as recommended above, ORiellys had them. Also use FI hose.

Cut hose same length as old one. I heat hose with blow drier to make it soft and pliable and it can be installed without removing anything but the hose. You will need to have the band clamps on the hose before you install it.

Here is a time saver to remove the air box. Only loosen the rear band clamp from the rear rubber intake boot at the throttle body. On the front boot we are going to cheat. From inside the air box take your fingers and compress the rubber boot where it sits in the hole in the bottom of the box, and push it down through the hole. Lift air box off boot. Check that front band clamp is still tight on front throttle body boot and it all can stay in place.

When reassembling, do the front boot first. Ease air box into place and squeeze rubber boot until it’s small enough in diameter to go back in hole in air box. Boot has a groove that the air box hole engages (be sure the groove is capturing the air box bottom around the entire circumference). The rear throttle body boot goes on like normal then tighten rear clamp.

I hope this makes sense, it’s a bitch to get a screw driver up under the air box the get at the front band clamp. Look at a manual, the throttle body/boot clamps are supposed to be indexed (clocked) in a specific way.
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The comment to "Look at a manual, the throttle body/boot clamps are supposed to be indexed (clocked) in a specific way."... reminds me of the warning in reply #6 of I bought a v-strom and I have a few fuel issues.
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Thanks Corndog. Sounds like that will be a lot easier.
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I had a similar issue.

At first it appeared that the leak was from the evaporation tube to the EVAP canister....
But I noticed a lot of fuel leaking from the canister itself.

Turns out there was a leak in the evaporation pipe INSIDE the gas tank. So the fuel was flowing directly into the EVAP canister, and pissing fuel out.

In the end, the only way to fix it was to patch the metal tube INSIDE the tank, or replace the tank...

I ended up retiring the bike.
As a comment, I purchased a set of extra long screwdrivers (300mm or so) some years back, having those made the airbox thing a non-issue. Not saying you have to have those but if those clamps are in the wrong position it makes dealing with that an easy job rather than a traumatic one.
I purchased a set of extra long screwdrivers (300mm or so)
If you have the opportunity, see if you can replace the screws for the airbox rings with bolts with a hex head. A hex socket (on a long extension bar) on a bolt will not cam out, whereas a screwdriver will. Makes your life a lot easier.

And yes, when you mount the airbox again, thinking through the final position of the rings will make the difference between an easy job and a nightmare.
I've had fuel puke out of my tank overflow, enuf that it has eroded the crankcase where it drips, Suzuki NA tech has seen it. no idea, I don't see it being more than a cosmetic problem, but my dealer called Suzuki NA when they observed it, a tech was in area.
Thanks all for the responses. I need this bike without downtime as my daily commuter until I retire in five months, as I am down to just this bike and my antique '83 CX650 turbo, which still has original brake hoses, etc. and I'm reluctant to press it into daily service. I'm not seeing and pulling but there is a smell of gas, particularly when parked for the first few hours after turning off the engine. I'll read through these posts today and start putting together a shopping list and battle plan.
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