I smell a fuel leak - any comon failure point culprit?

If it's not a puncture in the fuel tank, check the short fuel injection hose that connects the main supply hose to the fuel injectors. The hose should be replaced
every 4 years according to the service manual. You'll need 7 mm ID fuel injection hose and 2 fuel injection hose clamps.

If the Wee is anything like the Vee, this is totally common and a pain to fix. Tank and airbox off. Velocity stacks off. You have to get down to the injectors where you will see a 3" rubber hose that needs replaced. It's on the right in this picture. Be careful of the brass screws, they're soft.

Are you smelling a fuel leak, or are you smelling an overly rich mixture? They are fairly similar. If you have a PC5 or anything else that influences the fuelling of your bike you could be running a rich mixture at idle and smell that.

But if it's indeed fuel, there's only so many places where neat fuel can realistically escape. The hoses above are a good start, but here's the complete list:

• Tank cap/vent
• Hole in tank itself
• Fuel pump gasket
• Long fuel hose from the pump to the first injector, and its connectors
• Short crossover fuel hose to second injector and its clamps
• Rubber "cushion" / o-ring underneath the injectors

Also, if you overfill the tank (fuel above the bottom of the filler neck) and the fuel expands (due to, say, heat expansion), it may push past the fuel cap seal and make its way into the groove around the fuel filler neck. From there there's a drain hole that connects to a pipe through the tank, and from the bottom of the tank there's a rubber hose extending all the way down below the engine where the fuel can drip to the ground. This system ensures that no spilled liquid fuel can make its way onto a hot engine surface and ignite.

Use the clamps, as recommended above, ORiellys had them. Also use FI hose.

Cut hose same length as old one. I heat hose with blow drier to make it soft and pliable and it can be installed without removing anything but the hose. You will need to have the band clamps on the hose before you install it.

Here is a time saver to remove the air box. Only loosen the rear band clamp from the rear rubber intake boot at the throttle body. On the front boot we are going to cheat. From inside the air box take your fingers and compress the rubber boot where it sits in the hole in the bottom of the box, and push it down through the hole. Lift air box off boot. Check that front band clamp is still tight on front throttle body boot and it all can stay in place.

When reassembling, do the front boot first. Ease air box into place and squeeze rubber boot until it’s small enough in diameter to go back in hole in air box. Boot has a groove that the air box hole engages (be sure the groove is capturing the air box bottom around the entire circumference). The rear throttle body boot goes on like normal then tighten rear clamp.

I hope this makes sense, it’s a bitch to get a screw driver up under the air box the get at the front band clamp. Look at a manual, the throttle body/boot clamps are supposed to be indexed (clocked) in a specific way.