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Discussion Starter #1
I am at a loss.

DL1000K5 - 46,000 miles - just back from a 3200 mile trip through Alabama, all systems functioning well.

Task: new chain and sprockets - installed. (I have done this twice before without incident.) No parts left over. No blatant fluid losses observed.

Symptom: Motor and rear wheel not connected to each other.

Testing:

Clutch and sidestand engine interlock functional.

Sprockets, chain and wheels all rotate when manually rolling bike back and forth.

Clutch slave cylinder clean, bled, properly installed and functional.

Clutch control offers appropriate and familiar resistance.

Pushrod clean, straight and fully seated in case and slave.

More Testing:

Engine off, bike in any and every gear. Roll bike manually forward and back a couple of feet: bike appears to be in neutral = no resistance.

Engine on, neutral light on. Shift to first. Familiar clunk. Release clutch control = no motion or change in engine speed.

More testing:

Remove slave cylinder. Pushrod is free. Select any and every gear, roll bike forward and aft = no resistance.


What's the verdict, Doc?

I conclude that something I have done has damaged the clutch, preventing it from releasing.

My clutch basket has always been noisy, from mile one. It did not appear to be any worse on this trip, though it's entirely possible I have become habituated to an increasing level - especially with my fabulous new Etymotic earphones!

Still, this is failure is almost certainly not a coincidence. My clutch basket does not now appear to be making ANY noise.

I plan to keep this bike forever - should have bought two of them.

So I can do a slave rebuild and a clutch replacement without too much heartburn or disappointment.

I would prefer that one of you write back and remind me that I forgot the turn the adjuster nut on the left hand frabberjabber defillibrator to the left 5 degrees, so that I can slap my forehead, shout "d'oh" and go riding this afternoon.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Another Possibility

When working with a hydraulic clutch...
Insure the fluid is not contaminated; brake fluid attracts moisture, unless you are using a silicone base fluid.
Open the slave cylinder bleeder valve and compress the piston into the bore.
Pull the pushrod out slightly, insuring the pushrod is clean, lightly oiled with a dab of grease where it goes into the slave piston.
Carefully guide the pushrod into the slave piston, guide the cover onto the engine without tilting, and secure the cover; there should be no resistance on the cover.
Bleed the system (now's a good time to flush the system).

For those who found the pressure plate (or a clutch plate) off the clutch hub after messing with the slave cylinder...
The most common cause this happens is because the pushrod was not properly seated in its location in the slave piston bore when installing the cover with the slave cylinder. When you tightened down on the cover, the pushrod had no place to go but push on the pressure plate, and the pressure plate eventually is pushed off the hub. Once the cover was on, and the slave piston started relieving pressure, the pushrod popped back into the piston bore, leaving the pressure plate (or clutch plate) in the disengaged position. If your work area was quiet, you probably heard a slight tick when the pushrod popped into place. To verify this happened, all you have to do is look at the pushrod seal, you'll see where it was distorted from being out of alignment.
 
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