The best thing to do absent an ABS on-the-fly bypass switch in a steep, gravelly descent is to kill the power and deadhead down, allowing the rear tire to dig in.
Try EBC HH brake pads if your ABS performance sucks.
I just slapped some on this morning and bedded the pads in on my ride to work.
HOLY CRAP the bike stops REAL FAST LIKE NOW. Braking performance before the ABS kicks in seems massively improved.
On top of that, when the ABS *does* kick in and starts cycling, the bike still slows. On the stock pads on pavement it was like no brakes at all when the ABS hit. Now the brakes have enough bite that, even with ABS cycling, the bike slows down.
So what is the consensus on the best "money's no object when safety's at stake" ABS switch set-up for the Wee these days? (Assuming it's not insanely expensive, we've all saved enough money not buying a friggin' GS that I would hope that even the top-dog set up wouldn't break the bank.)
The 25A is the brains, the 40A is the muscle.
You can break just the 25A circuit to disable the ABS.
You can do all the new wiring through the fuse clips, without disturbing the factory wiring. Just make sure you have a 25A fuse somewhere in your new wiring.
I agree 100%. Its difficult to know how much front brake the rider in the video was using. The back brake doesn't do much on steep slippery downhills and once you at the point where the front wheel is locking, you are in trouble, with or without ABS.
I have ridden steep wet clay downhills (on my DRZ400, without ABS) where the only option was to keep on increasing speed or drop the bike. This is particularly true with knobbies on clay as they fill quickly and need to turning well to stay clear.
stay safe
Kia Kaha
Wayne
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