understood however traction was available as I progressively increased pressure on the rear brake trying to force the back tire to lock up the bike went from slowing rapidly to feeling like I had pulled in the clutch (which I had not) and freewheeling forward unchecked.
As mentioned I have never had abs on a bike before I am sure as I put more miles in the bike I will see what works and what does not.
The best thing to do absent an ABS on-the-fly bypass switch in a steep, gravelly descent is to kill the power and deadhead down, allowing the rear tire to dig in. Advice I failed to incorporate on Fry Mountain, resulting in some bent luggage racks, a broken windsheild, turn signal and some fairing scrapes. My semi-uncontrolled descent was very much as you described.
If I am on familiar gravel roads I'll leave the ABS on. With front knobby on gravel, ABS actuially works pretty good, at least to the extent to which my 'nads allowed me to test it.
understood however traction was available as I progressively increased pressure on the rear brake trying to force the back tire to lock up the bike went from slowing rapidly to feeling like I had pulled in the clutch (which I had not) and freewheeling forward unchecked.
This got me to thinking that a progressive ABS system, or a setting for gravel whereby the rear ABS did not interfere, might be a good idea. I wonder if the new Ducati Multistrata does this in it's myriad suspention/tuning settings.
The 25A is the brains, the 40A is the muscle.
You can break just the 25A circuit to disable the ABS.
You can do all the new wiring through the fuse clips, without disturbing the factory wiring. Just make sure you have a 25A fuse somewhere in your new wiring.
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StromTrooper
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