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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Today I went & picked up the final piece in the set to change out my Chain & Sprockets. I know some of you think " Whats so hard about that".
Well in the last 18 years My motorcycles have had shaft drives. Prior to that I never kept a bike long enough to worry about the chain Etc. wearing out ..
So with the JT Sprockets & D.I.D. 525XRing chain ,A borrowed chain breaker & Peening tool , and the Beast on the Pit Stand, I began.....
First I took My Velcro Wrap that I use as an E-Brake and Secured the Clutch Lever To the Hand grip.


Next I removed the cotter Key from the rear axle and Loosen'd the Axle.

I then removed the Clutch Slave Unit and the Sprocket cover:








Next I removed the Speed Sensor Trigger unit from the counterShaft and :eek: The 32mm Sprocket retaining nut was only FINGER Tight!!:mad:




After removing the Worn front sprocket, I decided to see how it looked against a "new" sprocket

Not Great But 16400 miles in 9months of riding Is a good base line to keep track of this new set..
It is EXTREEMLY IMPORTANT That you measure the chain 2 times and mark the link so that you have 2 Female ends!!!! I ended up adding a a Link to mine :mad: and re-peening it too. Heres the new chain installed on the old sprocket :

The New chain & rear sprocket installed & ready for test ride!..;)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You would have been swearing at that 32mm nut one way or another, tight or loose. :rolleyes:

Did you change the cush drive?
Actually the cush drive isolators didn't show any signifficant wear. So i didn't change them .
I am amazed at the difference on the weight and side plate thickness as compared to the OEM Chain tho:eek:
 

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I thought you might remove the swing arm to replace the chain? The last bike I had with a chain (long time ago) was endless and that's how I done it.
Anyone else here do it this way?
 

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I just replaced the chain on my XR... it had no conventional master link so I just picked a link and used my RK chain tool to break the chain... it was really easy... helps if you have the proper tool I guess.

- Martin
 

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I did the same on my DL1000 yesterday. Did you replace the rear sprocket with a 43 tooth as well? I did and found the chain is either way too loose or too tight. I opted for tight to allow for future tightening but ran out of adjustment to slack the chain and it is not perfectly aligned, as the right adjuster doesn't back off as far as the left. I'm going to pull the axle again, try replacing the adjuster locknuts with thinner ones or using a shorter adjuster bolt, or both. Just not comfortable with the chain this tight (3/4 an inch of slack) and slightly misaligned. Had over 18k miles on the stock chain, front sprocket looked just like yours, and the 32mm nut was not tight when I pulled it (The loctite had dried out and left a fine red dust inside the sprocket cover).
 

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Do you mean the chain is too tight in part of the rotation and too loose in another part? That and the red dust mean the chain needs to be replaced. Isn't that what you are doing though? Never adjust a chain tighter than spec. It will wear out in a hurry.
 

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I did the same on my DL1000 yesterday. Did you replace the rear sprocket with a 43 tooth as well? I did and found the chain is either way too loose or too tight. I opted for tight to allow for future tightening but ran out of adjustment to slack the chain and it is not perfectly aligned, as the right adjuster doesn't back off as far as the left. I'm going to pull the axle again, try replacing the adjuster locknuts with thinner ones or using a shorter adjuster bolt, or both. Just not comfortable with the chain this tight (3/4 an inch of slack) and slightly misaligned. Had over 18k miles on the stock chain, front sprocket looked just like yours, and the 32mm nut was not tight when I pulled it (The loctite had dried out and left a fine red dust inside the sprocket cover).
I jus finished the exact same swap. There was 10,000 km on the bike, and when the sprocket was put on I was at the very end of the adjustment range. Absolutely no more slack adjustment. Noticed the bolts were not quite even as well, with one being about 1/8" farther out from the nut than the other. But the axle assembly lines up with the swingarm marks on both sides and I believe that is the goal.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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The swingarm marks and the adjuster bolts can both be off relative to each other. The goal is to get the axle perpendicular to the centerline of the bike. With the stock axle spacers, that will cause a an offset of the sprockets on DL1000s with the rear being out 2mm farther from the centerline than the front. That's why you see so many references to Master Mike spacers here. Trying to line up the rear sprocket with the front sprocket using stock spacers will cock the rear wheel slightly to the right.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Chain adjustments on working bikes can be done by turning both adjusters in 1/8th turn increments to keep them parallel. When replacing a wheel, various methods using stretched string or lasers can be used. A search on those methods reveals many articles. The good old "take the hands off the bars while riding in a parking lot a number of times to see if the bike averages a straight path" isn't a bad idea either.
 
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