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There is no clutch arm on a dl650. it has an actuator on the left side and pushes what looks like the same clutch rod through the the case. if you have seen both dl1000 and dl650 models with the sprocket cover off they look surprising the same except for the clutch rod actuator. dl650 is cable operated and dl1000 is hyd, It looks like the hyd SC would bolt into the same holes that the cable operated actuator uses. If the sc will bolt in, it would be a bolt in conversion. I wouldn't mind slotting the holes if that would make the sc fit. You would have to see both models without the sprocket cover in place to see how identical the actuator mounting holes look. Never know for sure until some one tries it.
Ah, OK. I was assuming it was more like a "normal" cable clutch like what is on my FZ1.
Sounds like it would be pretty easy to try out then - just need some donor pieces from a wreck.
 

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I see the OP is in the UK.

If you are serious about wanting to try the DL1000 clutch on al DL650, I have an old Gen1 DL1000 clutch slave cylinder lying around that I no longer need. Yours for postage NL->UK only, provided that you eventually let us know the results.

The slave cylinder that I have was written off because it's pitted with corrosion. So it would also not be part of your final solution. But it is the most critical part as far as fitting is concerned so you can try that with my cylinder and then decide whether to go ahead with this project or not.
 

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The OP does live in the UK. however I, the loose screw with the curiosity about fitting a dl1000 sc into a dl650, happen to live in a former colony of the UK. also known as the USA. and the postage over to here would be more than my little mind can comprehend. Still it would be nice to somewhere, somehow, get this checked out. I whole heartedly agree with the approach to check this out on the cheap.
 

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There used to be a "Soft Clutch" for Air Head BMW's. It amounted to a length of chain and a roller that halved the effort to pull the lever. i put one on a 1983 R100 RT that someone had turbo'ed and the clutch had been beefed up. It was a hard pull but quite easy after installation. The BMW cable position made for a simple modification.

May be an easier mod that going hydraulic?
 

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There used to be a "Soft Clutch" for Air Head BMW's. It amounted to a length of chain and a roller that halved the effort to pull the lever. i put one on a 1983 R100 RT that someone had turbo'ed and the clutch had been beefed up. It was a hard pull but quite easy after installation. The BMW cable position made for a simple modification.

May be an easier mod that going hydraulic?
as long as the clutch would completely engage and disengage it would be great. the clutch release lever down by the clutch would only have half the normal travel. on a dl650 I don't know if you could lose half the release lever travel and still fully engage and disengage the clutch. also that mechanism would not fit in a dl650. I like the looks of the bmw after market soft clutch. that is my kind of engineering, simple but effective.
Along time ago on dirt bikes we used to cut the clutch arm and splice and weld in an insert about an inch in length. if you made it any longer the clutch would drag.
the dl650 clutch cable pulls on a lever that turns a screw to push the clutch rod in. I wonder if I could get away with slightly lengthening that lever? It is too hot lately to even examine my throw out mechanism . 118f yesterday maybe the same today, or down a degree. whoopee!
 

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On the BMW it still pulled the actuator enough to work the clutch. If a pivot point could be found that allows that on a DL650. It's possible to make it work. My hands are not arthritic so i don't have that problem.
I do know that 1000's and Ducat's have slave cylinder leaks. Maybe Moto Guzzi's too. A cable is so much more simple.
i just thowed it out there as a solution for one problem.
Oh, it's hot here too. Hotty Snotty Summer!
 

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Along time ago on dirt bikes we used to cut the clutch arm and splice and weld in an insert about an inch in length. if you made it any longer the clutch would drag.
That would be a far more workable modification. My experience with Suzuki hydraulic clutches is that they tend to be relatively heavy and take up quickly when nearly fully released. If going this way I would not be experimenting with a Suzuki MC.
Lengthening the clutch arm after cleaning out the actuator and repacking with lithium or molybdenum disulphide grease would be the way I would go.
 
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Funny about the bad reviews on the suzuki hydraulic clutches. I had a kawi concours 1000 that I put 60k miles on and never had any hydraulic problems,clutch or brake, of any kind. then I put almost 40k miles on a kawi zrx1200 and never had any hydraulic problems on that. I did change fluid from time to time and maybe I was just lucky. on both of those bikes the clutch feel was not heavy or sudden.
 

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I assume your problem will get worse with time so if you plan on keeping the Strom a long term solution might be best ??

I can personally recommend the Rekluse clutch.

I have had one on my WR450f since 2004, it works great but it does take a few minutes to get a grip of it, if you let the motor get all the way down to idle it will freewheel, so no engine braking, just like pulling the clutch leaver, a small quick blap of the throttle re engages the motor to the wheel, when ever the motor is above idle it stays engaged.

It does feel strange to stop in traffic and not use a clutch.
 
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I know this doesn't help the OP, but for public knowledge.......the new 1050 has the lightest clutch pull of any clutch I have felt on a road bike.
 

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the rekluse clutch is not new. I had one on a ktm years ago. It took me quite some time to fully get used to it. Some time back, a friend and I were at a bike shop and he left the key in and ign and lights on. he had a wee. we came out and the battery was too low to crank it over. we got it going with a push start and slightly down hill parking lot. pretty good for a couple retirees. but with an auto clutch you are completely out of luck in such a case. I had a 650 scooter and I was a little nervous about being in trouble if the battery will not turn it over. I had a problem with that just once.
there is good and bad about an auto clutch and good and bad about big scooters.I don't really feel a need for either one at present.
I wonder if that easy pull clutch on the dl1050 is similar to the clutch mechanism on the versys 300.
 

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"being in trouble if the battery will not turn it over. "

That's why I got one of those little back up batteries at Costco. So that I wouldn't be caught with no power. I have a set of jumper cables too. But I don't mind having luggage and top box with stuff in it on the bike all the time.
 

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I put up a similar question on here some time back. I had the thought that maybe the hydraulic clutch set up on the dl1000 might fit the dl650 and help me and my arthritis out. I got no knowledgeable answers nobody really knew if it would fit or not. there were several dummies saying get more exercise or similar. I have ridden dirt bikes with the magura hydraulic clutch system and it is quite noticible on the dirt bikes I have ridden, much better. that is all I can tell you. I would bet it would help quite a bit on the dl650. keep us informed if you do go that route.
I have ridden several different bikes over the years with Hydra clutches and many of them were still very heavy, especially Harleys. I don't know even if you can find a hydra clutch kit for your 650 if it would solve your problem. Be careful and ask a lot of questions regarding clutch pull weight before paying out... BTW I have old hands as well and find the Hydra clutch on my old 2003 DL1000 pretty light.
 

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I think that would help me. But boy does it stand out like something very strange.
Who cares if it works for you? Looks like they are about $30.00 US on Amazon. From the looks of it you should be able to put that anywhere along the clutch cable run. Just have some cables made up to reach where you want to place it, maybe to can hide it under the tank someplace.
 

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If I were to start on a project to convert a 650 to hydraulic clutch....I would try to use the 650 factory bell crank assembly. Fabrication of a bracket to hold a slave cylinder would be straight forward. Figuring out how to attach the slave to the clutch linkage shouldn't be too hard. Below is an example of a small slave cylinder I would maybe start with. I would use some type of motorcycle ( even a DL 1000 as the switchgear might be similar ) clutch master cylinder assembly. Make up a hose and voila!

 
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