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Discussion Starter #1
I'm thinking of ways to create a 100% water proof solution for an enclosure that contains an LCD screen. i.e. looking for a clear layer.
Is there some chemical that I can dip the box into?

Not really into that field, of chemicals - how is it done in the industry?

Take this enclosure:


The top plexiglass is water resistant but not water proof. Is there a way to create a custom shaped plexiglass that has no holes/screws in it, using tools found in the home? A clear cover that would surround the box from 5 sides (or maybe even 6, including the bottom).
 

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I think they make a clear Pelican box.
 

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I'm thinking of ways to create a 100% water proof solution for an enclosure that contains an LCD screen. i.e. looking for a clear layer.
Is there some chemical that I can dip the box into?

Not really into that field, of chemicals - how is it done in the industry?

Take this enclosure:


The top plexiglass is water resistant but not water proof. Is there a way to create a custom shaped plexiglass that has no holes/screws in it, using tools found in the home? A clear cover that would surround the box from 5 sides (or maybe even 6, including the bottom).
Have you considered using electronic potting compound to waterproof the electronics? Or is that too permanent?

You could use a clear box like you described and seal it with gasket maker. Waterproof but still fairly easy to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I think they make a clear Pelican box.
Interesting.
How can I attach the LCD module to the front side? I need to fasten it two screws. Maybe use some hot glue with two nuts, on that back of inner part of the front side?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Have you considered using electronic potting compound to waterproof the electronics? Or is that too permanent?

You could use a clear box like you described and seal it with gasket maker. Waterproof but still fairly easy to remove.
Yes, it is too permanent

The problem is, I don't understand how to do what I described.
 

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Interesting.
How can I attach the LCD module to the front side? I need to fasten it two screws. Maybe use some hot glue with two nuts, on that back of inner part of the front side?
Hot glue will not hold up long term. I use a commercial grade at work, and that is what I am used to. Over time, the glue will break away from the plastic.

I am now going to study your photograph above.


B.L.
 

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I have used this to build my DL-650 air filters with DAP's Aquarium Sealant. (Yes, there will be an article forthcoming for doing this!). You can purchase it at Lowe's, or Home Depot. There are other brands as well, that I have used.

Shop DAP 2.8 Oz. Clear Silicone Specialty Caulk at Lowes.com


See this stuff that I am holding in my hand? Also, the package of Locktite brand behind, on my work bench. They work very well too.



You could prototype your own box using simple materials.

Kind of like how I make my own air filters. I have two OEM air filter "frames".

I cut the old filter medium off of it.


Squirt some glue around the base of the $5.00 filter.


And, stick it to the frame.




I've been doing this since 2009. So, roughly for 60,000+ miles. I just made two more up for this season.

Okay, where were we?

Oh yeah, waterproof, FLEXIBLE (because of expansion and contraction due to changing temperatures.) glue. Check out what I listed above.

There is also this. But, I have never tried it. Aquarium Plumbing Adhesive: Mr. Sticky's Underwater Glue

B.L.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hot glue will not hold up long term. I use a commercial grade at work, and that is what I am used to. Over time, the glue will break away from the plastic.

I am now going to study your photograph above.


B.L.
Thanks, Barry!

Here is an image of the current enclosure:


The enclosure has 4 small plastic built in 'nuts'/grooves that allow small screws to attach the LCD to the front of the enclosure. I've pointed them out with the two arrows
The enclosure comes exactly with the positions of the 4 screws which leads me to think that this case was designed for that LED display in mind.

Also, I think the Pelican micro case will probably not work, since its clear screen has some 'bars' on it that would not be a good solution.
 

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Also, I think the Pelican micro case will probably not work, since its clear screen has some 'bars' on it that would not be a good solution.
I agree. I have thought about using one of the Pelican "micro" cases for a similar use, but the strengthening "ridges" across the cover, cause a problem.

I believe our posts overlapped. Go back one where I make some suggestions for better adhesive then "hot glue".

Barry
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have used this to build my DL-650 air filters with DAP's Aquarium Sealant. (Yes, there will be an article forthcoming for doing this!). You can purchase it at Lowe's, or Home Depot. There are other brands as well, that I have used.

Shop DAP 2.8 Oz. Clear Silicone Specialty Caulk at Lowes.com


See this stuff that I am holding in my hand? Also, the package of Locktite brand behind, on my work bench. They work very well too.

You could prototype your own box using simple materials.

Kind of like how I make my own air filters. I have two OEM air filter "frames".

I cut the old filter medium off of it.

Squirt some glue around the base of the $5.00 filter.

I've been doing this since 2009. So, roughly for 60,000+ miles. I just made two more up for this season.

Okay, where were we?

Oh yeah, waterproof, FLEXIBLE (because of expansion and contraction due to changing temperatures.) glue. Check out what I listed above.

There is also this. But, I have never tried it. Aquarium Plumbing Adhesive: Mr. Sticky's Underwater Glue

B.L.
Thank you. Impressive.

So you're suggesting that I use the existing plexiglass solution, just water proof the sides with that glue?
But how do I keep it tidy? I mean, how do I make the glue look like it was molded, not just put by hand?
 

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Thank you. Impressive.

So you're suggesting that I use the existing plexiglass solution, just water proof the sides with that glue?
But how do I keep it tidy? I mean, how do I make the glue look like it was molded, not just put by hand?
Disclaimer: I NEVER suggest anything to anybody. Therefor, if an individual feels "inspired", they should do so at their own risk!

:biggrinjester:


When I have had to lay down a nice bead of caulking, or similar, "tubed adhesive", to get that "factory fresh look", I have applied masking tape to either side of where I want the edges of my fillet of glue to stop.

So, if I need to place a small fillet of adhesive in a 90 degree corner, I would measure 1/4" out from the corner, along each surface. I would lay down a strip of masking tape along my marks, on either surface.

Then, apply a bead of sealant BETWEEN the two strips of masking tape. Don't "fill up" the corner. Use the sealant wisely; sparingly.

When you have laid the bead down, run the tip of your finger around the sealant. The curve of the tip of your finger will provide you with that "curved fillet" look you are trying to achieve.

DON'T keep messing with it!!! When the fillet has been made, remove the masking tape. Sometimes I do this when the sealant is wet, and sometimes I have done it after it dries. Often, I am impatient and I pull the tape when the sealant is still curing.....

After I have dragged my finger around what I am trying to seal, I wipe the excess sealant on my pants.

You have done better then I have. I would suggest that you wear a latex glove, to protect your finger from any chemicals that may be present, and dispose of the glove after you are done.

It's too late for me, but I feel it is my responsibility to protect you. I've got a feeling that, if we have another World War, the U.S. will want you on their team. So, stay healthy.

B.L.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Disclaimer: I NEVER suggest anything to anybody. Therefor, if an individual feels "inspired", they should do so at their own risk!

:biggrinjester:


When I have had to lay down a nice bead of caulking, or similar, "tubed adhesive", to get that "factory fresh look", I have applied masking tape to either side of where I want the edges of my fillet of glue to stop.

So, if I need to place a small fillet of adhesive in a 90 degree corner, I would measure 1/4" out from the corner, along each surface. I would lay down a strip of masking tape along my marks, on either surface.

Then, apply a bead of sealant BETWEEN the two strips of masking tape. Don't "fill up" the corner. Use the sealant wisely; sparingly.

When you have laid the bead down, run the tip of your finger around the sealant. The curve of the tip of your finger will provide you with that "curved fillet" look you are trying to achieve.

DON'T keep messing with it!!! When the fillet has been made, remove the masking tape. Sometimes I do this when the sealant is wet, and sometimes I have done it after it dries. Often, I am impatient and I pull the tape when the sealant is still curing.....

After I have dragged my finger around what I am trying to seal, I wipe the excess sealant on my pants.

You have done better then I have. I would suggest that you wear a latex glove, to protect your finger from any chemicals that may be present, and dispose of the glove after you are done.

It's too late for me, but I feel it is my responsibility to protect you. I've got a feeling that, if we have another World War, the U.S. will want you on their team. So, stay healthy.

B.L.
Great - tips from the Maestro. I will have to try that. My original idea was to have a custom mold, but I guess this would work as well.

Regarding the World War comment, LOL, I just found out this a few days ago: (The tall guy saluting is me)
 

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Regarding the World War comment, LOL, I just found out this a few days ago: (The tall guy saluting is me)
I had already pieced that together about you. You know waaaaay too much! There is no way that you could have spent your early childhood years passing through our U.S. educational system.

When the cannon goes off, what's it like inside the tank? Do you feel like you are inside a giant subwoofer?

Maybe with this playing?

 

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Do you know how much fun this would be for me to "customize", then spray with Rhinoliner?

The enemy would scatter in desperate fear, when they saw me coming. I would be the modern version of a kilt wearing, bagpipe playing, crazy Scotsman marching across the battlefield.

I've already got the crazy Scotsman thing going.


B.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I had already pieced that together about you. You know waaaaay too much! There is no way that you could have spent your early childhood years passing through our U.S. educational system.

When the cannon goes off, what's it like inside the tank? Do you feel like you are inside a giant subwoofer?

Maybe with this playing?
Oh man.. you're funny. :green_lol:
Regd. the Israeli education system - I was totally bored with everything except Math. So I found out that if I speak loudly to others the teacher would kick me out of the classroom.. and then I found my way quickly to the library. :thumbup: There I could focus on reading interesting books.

As for the gun - it was kind of a 'Big Bang'. Hard to describe. Very loud.
I started as a loader, and then you see a huge back of the gun recoiling back inches from your nose..man, the first time I use sure my head is going to become mash potatos. But after a while you get used to it.
Later as a commander, it is very exciting, as you can see the shell flying into the target super sonic.

That might help you vizualize it:

As for farkling - we had plenty of that done! No two tanks were exactly the same.
And the color was a special Khaki very similar to your Rhinoliner!
We were also 'semi-engineers' - so 95% of the regular maintenance was done by us. I once replaced the whole engine (A huge 27L V-12 turbo diesel)..that was very interesting (of course there were experts near me guiding me).
You'd be a perfect Israeli soldier - you adapt, innovate and clearly have function-over-form.:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks - that is actually nice.
But the problem remains - how do I attached the LCD inside to the clear front side? If I use screws then I kill water proofing.
If you see my photo before (sorry about tanks and all :) ), then the current enclosure has 4 built in 'things' that I can bolt the screws onto, thus attaching the LCD properly.
Do you have any idea how to solve that?
 

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Do you have any idea how to solve that?
I wouldn't puncture the case with screws. I was thinking more of a case within a case, perhaps with dual-lock or velcro as fasteners to hold them together, or adhesives as Barry has suggested. Pretty much everything in portable electronics is held together that way these days.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
BL's tip is great for inside corners, I've done similar and also with outside corners, painting on Plasti-Dip
That's what I was looking for! :thumbup:
So I can put some masking tape on the display top then dip the whole unit in the Plasti-dip, let it dry, and then later after the plastic cures, remove the masking tape to get a professional look! GREAT.

And BL- thank you as well!!
 
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