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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi,

I have too many unswitched (hot) devices connected to my battery terminals right now: GPS (I want it unswitched), battery tender, stebel and coming soon the coocase S50. 3 terminals on the battery work, 4 would not - they are too thick.

The EB solutions (PC-8 or 3CS) aren't really what I need as they mainly provide switched terminals and I want more unswitched terminals.

So I was thinking of this simple solution, please let me know if it makes sense and/or is safe:
Get posi-lock connectors (e.g. PTA1416 or PTA1218, need advice here) and then connect the narrow side (e.g. 16) of the posi-lock the single battery wire, and to the wider side (e.g. 14) 3 wires, therefore splitting 1 to 3.
This should take the load off the battery terminals.
Of course, each of the splitted wires is protected by its own fuse (just like it is today, I only want to solve the battery terminal crowding).

Any advice, idea, comment is welcome.
 

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Hi,

I have too many unswitched (hot) devices connected to my battery terminals right now: GPS (I want it unswitched), battery tender, stebel and coming soon the coocase S50. 3 terminals on the battery work, 4 would not - they are too thick.

The EB solutions (PC-8 or 3CS) aren't really what I need as they mainly provide switched terminals and I want more unswitched terminals.

So I was thinking of this simple solution, please let me know if it makes sense and/or is safe:
Get posi-lock connectors (e.g. PTA1416 or PTA1218, need advice here) and then connect the narrow side (e.g. 16) of the posi-lock the single battery wire, and to the wider side (e.g. 14) 3 wires, therefore splitting 1 to 3.
This should take the load off the battery terminals.
Of course, each of the splitted wires is protected by its own fuse (just like it is today, I only want to solve the battery terminal crowding).

Any advice, idea, comment is welcome.

The eastern beaver PC-8 uses an external relay. If you do not want to have them all switched, you can either skip the relay, or switch which power lead uses the relay amnd which is direct.

A fuse block is still the easiest solution to the "too many connectors at the battery terminal" problem IMO.

Alternatively, the Fuzeblock FZ-1 makes each circuit selectable as to whether it is switched or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The eastern beaver PC-8 uses an external relay. If you do not want to have them all switched, you can either skip the relay, or switch which power lead uses the relay amnd which is direct.

A fuse block is still the easiest solution to the "too many connectors at the battery terminal" problem IMO.

Alternatively, the Fuzeblock FZ-1 makes each circuit selectable as to whether it is switched or not.
Thanks for your comment.
PC-8 is designed to have hard wired 2 unswitched and 6 switched. This was the designer's decision as he wrote in the FAQ.
I do not want to workaround the relay - why buy it in the first place, then?

As for Fuzeblock FZ-1 - thanks for the tip. Looks very interesting. The only limitation is the Max 10A..doesn't really allow adding the Stebel.
But I can live with it for other devices like GPS and Coocase.
How does one change a circuit type from Constant to Switched?
EDIT: Found out how to do it. Really elegant and dynamic solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
There is always the option of using longer bolts for the battery terminals.

Ron :mrgreen:
Actually, great idea!! I have no 'moral' problem of doing it.
Maybe I can buy a bit longer bolts in a hardware store, and cut them to fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Going with the longer bolt option.
Maybe someone (GreyWolf?) can advise:
What is the specification/name/thread size (not sure how to call it) of the battery bolt?
If I go to a hardware store and ask for a longer bolt, what would be the technical term for it?

I guess I can take the bolt with me and look for a similar longer one, just I might ending up with the wrong one and ruin the thread.
 

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It's a 6mm bolt. You still need to fuse each wire. A small fuse block would be neater.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It's a 6mm bolt. You still need to fuse each wire. A small fuse block would be neater.
I knew you'd come to the rescue :)

What small fuse block do you recommend?
An automotive one, similar to the one the v-strom has?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I found this BUSSMAN FUSES ATC FUSE BLOCK 4 POS 15600-04-20



The photo has 8 Positions, but I think 4 or 6 are enough for my needs.
Did you think of this kind of fuse block?

I guess the POS is obvious, but the NEG is the central silver pole (?)
 

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I put a small strip of plastic (piece of a wire tie) under the battery nuts to raise them up a bit, so now the stock battery bolt can grab a few threads. Just a thought.
 

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I found this BUSSMAN FUSES ATC FUSE BLOCK 4 POS 15600-04-20



The photo has 8 Positions, but I think 4 or 6 are enough for my needs.
Did you think of this kind of fuse block?

I guess the POS is obvious, but the NEG is the central silver pole (?)
NO!!! The center bolt is the positive supply from the battery. The spade lugs at each fuse are the fused supply to the individual loads. There is no negative bus on that fuse block, you'll have to provide your own. You can use One Of These with a Jumper Strip on one side connected to the negative pole of the battery.

I used a Centech AP-2 on my VFR and like it very well. It is split into two sections, one with 3 fuses and one with 2 fuses. One side can be switched and the other side unswitched or they can be bonded together if desired to make all circuits switched or unswitched.
 

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If the fuse block has exposed hot bits, invent an insulating cover. You don't want a tool bouncing around the fuse block and short and melt the metal.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
3CS is not a solution to my problem - I want a 1->3 or even better a 1->4 splitter. 3CS does at best 1->2 for switched and 1->1 for unswitched.

I now realize that using an open fuse box is not a safe option.

The Centech AP-2 does look like a good safe option. Also not very expensive.
Is it possible to cut its legs and use 3M Dual Lock Strips to so I can mount it flat without drilling?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
This is what I'm thinking of:


Screwing the Centech AP2 to a plastic layer, and then using 3M Dual Locks to mount it flat on the floor of the space under the rear seat.
 

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This is what I'm thinking of:


Screwing the Centech AP2 to a plastic layer, and then using 3M Dual Locks to mount it flat on the floor of the space under the rear seat.
A PC-8 would work then, of course, without the relay if you want them all unswitched. No matter what you choose, you'll still need a grounding block (don't use the frame).
 

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do not cut the legs off of the Centech, the bottom of the circuit board is exposed and it needs to have that clearance. I have one on my Wee and have installed 100's of others. You will not find a better fuse block for the money. Kieth
 
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