It is easiest if you remove:

• Combination meter panel

In the service manual look at page 7-6.

Hope that helps.

 

You really don't need to remove any panels. Just unplug the wire. There is a plastic tab you have to pull not press. Then remove the bolt. If I remember I think it is 17mm.

That turn signal sure is expensive. Search for Buel turn signal for a cheaper alternative. about $45 for 4. Then get the bulet to Suzuki wire adapters.

 

You really don't need to remove any panels. Just unplug the wire. There is a plastic tab you have to pull not press. Then remove the bolt. If I remember I think it is 17mm.

He is right, it is not necessary to remove anything. Turn the handlebars right to get to the left side, left to get to the right side. One electrical connector, one large nut (not "bolt") threaded onto the turn signal body.

 

+1
Simple change out, look at the wire coming from the stem, the connector is a press and pull apart, then click or snaps back in. The stem assembly has a threaded stem at the end, just unscrew the nut.
I went with the stock, the Buell is not the same size, so you have to repalce all if you care about them matching.

 

+1
the connector is a press and pull apart, then click or snaps back in.

That is incorrect on removing the connector. "Pull" the tab on the connector, (away from the plastic housing), to release the two parts. "Pressing" the tab in will not release the connection.

 

turn signals

Willy, I have a set of flush mount signals if you are interested. They elimiate the need to replace them again. Also they run about 20.00 for both. Curt in Thonotosassa.

 

I'm interested in those flush-mounts ... depending on which ones they are. I've broken BOTH of mine, and it's basically just electrical tape holding them together right now.

 

I know your pain. I was able to replace mine without removing anything.

Dave...

 

Rear signal.......

The poster didn't say if it is a front or rear signal he destroyed?? If a rear, then removal of the rack (4 bolts), side panels (4 plastic re-usable, pop rivets), and one allenhead bolt on each side of the rear fender will allow you to "drop" the rear fender and gain access to the wire connectors and nuts on the stems of the signals.

 

Well I just replaced the turn signal assy. As I got in there, it was a little tougher because the previous owner had put a switch for heated grips on the left side, so there were wires running through that area which would not be on the stock bike. I also found that the connector stumped for a while, but I logged back on here and re-read people's comments, then went out and disconnected it in a few minutes.

Turn signal mounted, connected, and I tested it and it works fine.

So now I'm back to legal.

The temp is expected to get up to 72F today, so I think I'm going to need to test it out over an extended ride, with the mesh jacket on as well.

Thanks for the inputs, I wouldn't have known how to do it, especially the connector, without the comments on this forum.

Mike

 

Cheaper Than Original

I replace my left front without removing anything other than the turn signal but it was a real pain in the A55. I also found that the turn signals off my DRZ400S fit and were about $10 less than the ones for the DL650. If you want to keep the original & save some money use the DRZ400S model.

 

Change of turn signal tomorrow

Hi guys,
was just a little pussled by the different descriptions here, but from what I've read I have gathered that
1. I should be able to change the front left signal without removing anything except the signal.
2. To disconnect the cable, I should pull the locking piece of plastic rather than press it.
3. There is only a single nut to remove and nothing else.

I just recieved my new OEM turn signal and will try to replace it tomorrow morning.

Johan

 

Johan,

yes on all counts , from memory.

 

Junk copy turn signal

Got my stock turn signal from wemoto.com.

Opened and it looked ok, so I connected it and started tightening the nut on the inside of the fairing. The rubber of the turn signal "foot" did not tighten up properly to the fairing so I kept on tightening the nut.
Suddenly the turn signal falls of, and dangles in the wire.

It turned out that it was only a cheap copy, the "bolt" was only pushed into the rubber of the turn signal foot and the "head" of the "bolt" was not staying. Looked quite sad...

Did it again and did not tighten the nut so hard. Now have it mounted but it is not very good. When I am driving, the turn signal keeps shaking up and down...

Guess I will have to go to the Suzuki shop and open my wallet...

:-(

 

In case someone is using this old thread for reference, the connector with the lift-up tab is about four inches up the wire from the turn signal assembly, at least on the right front signal. It's dark under there, and the nut against the inner side of the fairing is a little awkward to get to. To loosen, I used an adj wrench, since my open-end wrenches don't go to 17mm. To re-tighten, i just ran it up finger tight. It's not going to fly off, even if it did somehow come unscrewed. Don't want to crank too hard and break the new assy.

 

I broke one of mine and I found it very easy and economical to replace both the fronts with Buells. It was, I think, about 25.00 for both.

 

Cheap DL 650 Turn Signals

I too needed a right front turn signal. I ordered on line from MotoDiscovery.com. The PN is 001806 and the cost is 18.5 Euro and I paid 8 more for registered express mail. I got it in a week. It is an exact match and it does have a strange clip on the end of the wire, which will help me figure out how to remove the old one. It came from Athens so I was suspicious, especially at that price it can't possibly be Japanese. Bike Bandit would only sell me a pair of them for $85 plus. Had I not found this, I would have bought the $100 LED flush front signals from Twisted Throttle. I locked up my front wheel on a FS dirt road, flipped over to the right and broke the orange lens. The light still works but I did not have enough pieces to glue together. I am likely to just swap out the lens rather R&R the unit. I also fractured my right ankle so I have sat out the greatest Seattle Area riding season ever known.