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Discussion Starter #1
As the title says; what EXACTLY do I need to do to remove the upper triple tree clamp? Remove the center bolt (which I am to re-toque to 65 ft/lbs???). I am also to loosen off the two Allen bolts one for each side of the clamp?? Then I just move the BRAKE hoses, or only one? Anything else?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You can loosen the pinch bolts and slide the fork tubes down without messing with the triple tree. Just make sure the front of the bike is properly supported.


THAT! Is an awesome idea! Thank you for that.


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On my 800ST BMW i moved the throttle assy and made the adjustments. On my Wee's i just loosened the cables and added the bar risers, no sweat.
You can move the cabling without messing with the triple tree. At least I've been lucky so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
On my 800ST BMW i moved the throttle assy and made the adjustments. On my Wee's i just loosened the cables and added the bar risers, no sweat.

You can move the cabling without messing with the triple tree. At least I've been lucky so far.


Loosened the cables? By that do you mean removing the hoses from the clamps holding it to the frame?


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That's what i did on my efforts. On the BMW I had to reroute the cables out of the wire holders. On the Wee I was able to stretch things a bit to make a bar riser work.
The cable holders are nice but may give you some slack out of the cable guides.
it may not be the best of the choices but in my case it worked.
What exactly are you working with?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's what i did on my efforts. On the BMW I had to reroute the cables out of the wire holders. On the Wee I was able to stretch things a bit to make a bar riser work.
The cable holders are nice but may give you some slack out of the cable guides.
it may not be the best of the choices but in my case it worked.
What exactly are you working with?


Rox risers 50mm adjustable.


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To remove the top tripple tree I think is the easiest. As long as you have the tools to remove the rear axle you can break the center nut. Can't remember the socket size, may be 30mm?

Whilst you are in there check the steering heard bearing for tightness (unless the bike is pretty new). They are likely a little loose.

If you plan on dropping the forks you need a centerstand (or rear wheel stand) and you need to jack up the front of the bike. Also make sure there is enough slack in the brake line going to the front to accommodate the drop of the front.
 

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50mm, about 2 inch? one set of risers I have was only an inch straight up, the other was up and back about 1 1/2 that was done without disturbing the triple tree.
That really sounds like a lot more work than loosening the cables and trying to reroute. what about loosening the guide that the cables run through?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
50mm, about 2 inch? one set of risers I have was only an inch straight up, the other was up and back about 1 1/2 that was done without disturbing the triple tree.

That really sounds like a lot more work than loosening the cables and trying to reroute. what about loosening the guide that the cables run through?


I will attempt all non messing with triple tree options first. I’m like you, prefer to not mess with the Triple trees.


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For sure and there are brake line extensions as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Okay, so I removed the top triple tree and rerouted the brake hoses. All in all, a very easy task. I re torqued the center nut to 65 ft/lbs. and the two pinch Allen head screws I made tight with the Allen wrench and a good hard tap. The bars are in a much better reach for me, and there really is no stretching on the brake lines. My only concern is the front brake where the hardline transitions into the rubber hose at the block that has the bolt holding it to the neck on the right side of the steering stem. I was going to leave it lose, but not sure that is advisable.
 
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If the tension on the brake line is workable with the mount loose, You might try using a tie wrap to keep it flexible and clear of hitting other hard parts as the bar swing from left to right.
Best world situation would be a slightly longer brake line to make everything fit the best. Other solutions will be next choice under the conditions.
 

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If you leave it loose make sure it stays put.

I forced the incoming pipe by bending it a bit to give me just that little bit of extra slack. Its a tough assembly, not easy to cause real damage. Obviously you don't want to kink any of the pipes or else your brakes will really not work as designed.
 

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I left mine in place. The hose takes a sharp bend there, sharper than I would ideally like, but I thing it will be okay. I'll probably try to find a 2 inch extension and keep it on the shelf for now and install it when I flush the brake fluid in a year or so and have to bleed the hose anyway.

Vinnie

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