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I know this thread is old, but I saw this and got to wondering.....


So I just ran a cost per mile calculation for my 2008 DL650, which I bought with 35,000 miles on it in January. It currently has 52,000.

Fuel (50mpg @ 2.20/Gal
Oil changes ($20 every 3000 mi - including filter)
Front tire(11k mi @ $76)
Rear tire (12k mi. @ $150)
Chain/sprockets (20,000 mi @ $140).
Insurance ($103/year @ 17,500 miles this year so far)

Total: 8.1 cents per mile. Insurance is a maximum, as that mileage figure will go up.

My 2005 F150 gets 15 mpg. At a fairly low $2.20/gallon, that's 14 cents a mile for fuel alone.
you are forgetting to consider the value of your time, compare apples to apples, not apples to oranges, I have detailed receipts for both 2 and 4 wheeled vehicles all serviced by a professional mechanic, you are only considering cost of parts

minor service done by a professional mechanic takes 1-1.5 hours to change oil, check fasteners, clean and lube shift linkage, cable operation, etc.

tires to remove wheel from bike, mount and balance tire, reinstall wheel is nearly a hour etc.

maybe your time is worthless, mine isn't

also consider coverage on your insurance, do you have same deductibles, coverage and limits ?

if you don't consider these things, your fooling yourself
 

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I have owned 2 3series BMWs first was an '82 320i and second was an '86 328e, the 320i was the cheapest vehicle per mile of any vehicle I ever owned, the 328e was 2nd
We have an "inherited" 1986 325e coming our way. It hasn't run in 17 years. Looking forward to the challenge. Other than he parked it because the air went out and when he got to it two years later it didn't start, it's in immaculate condition. Trunk is full of parts he bought to fix it but never got around to it. Gonna need gas tank dropped, fuel lines cleaned, timing belt, water pump, injectors cleaned and then I can see if it even starts.
 

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We have an "inherited" 1986 325e coming our way. It hasn't run in 17 years. Looking forward to the challenge. Other than he parked it because the air went out and when he got to it two years later it didn't start, it's in immaculate condition. Trunk is full of parts he bought to fix it but never got around to it. Gonna need gas tank dropped, fuel lines cleaned, timing belt, water pump, injectors cleaned and then I can see if it even starts.
the 325e that I had, I only paid $300 for from a garage that had been using it as a gofer car, when I went to "test drive" it, it started right up, ran perfect, hit the brakes, they went to the floor, broke a brake line, I moved it around in the parking lot, saw that it was just one line, paid em the $300, got he title, next day I registered it, went back to drive it home put my plates on it, filled the brake fluid reservoir and pinched of the rear brake line with a pair of vice grips and drove it home. Other than fixing the brake line, I never put a cent into it and drove it nearly 25000 miles till the registration ran out, then junked it cause buying another beater was cheaper than fixing it for inspection

the 325e was awesome in the snow lots of low end torque compared to the high revving 320i, I could put it in 3rd gear and start out on icy roads without any wheelspin
 

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the 325e that I had, I only paid $300 for from a garage that had been using it as a gofer car, when I went to "test drive" it, it started right up, ran perfect, hit the brakes, they went to the floor, broke a brake line, I moved it around in the parking lot, saw that it was just one line, paid em the $300, got he title, next day I registered it, went back to drive it home put my plates on it, filled the brake fluid reservoir and pinched of the rear brake line with a pair of vice grips and drove it home. Other than fixing the brake line, I never put a cent into it and drove it nearly 25000 miles till the registration ran out, then junked it cause buying another beater was cheaper than fixing it for inspection

the 325e was awesome in the snow lots of low end torque compared to the high revving 320i, I could put it in 3rd gear and start out on icy roads without any wheelspin
This one will get different treatment. It's actually become a collectors item. The one we are picking up only has 77K on it. Running with no issues it will fetch about 10k now. Just 5 years ago it would have brought about 2k in the same condition. Go figure. My wife will be driving it. I'm figuring about 6 months to get it in road worthy condition.
 

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It's actually become a collectors item.
that is something we don't see often in New England, all it takes is one winter, by the time its seen 3 or 4, it's a beater

my son has a '93 318' convertible, last year of the E30 body style, a '94 535i E34 sedan and a '00 750il E38 limousine, he keeps em all in storage for winter, in winter he drives a P38 Rover (one of the years that Rovers were built by BMW) ya, he's a bimmer fanatic, he used to be a Chevy truck guy, but the first time he drove the 320i that I had, it converted his way of thinking about vehicles
 

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2,000 toyota tacoma, many were recalled for a ??? frame problem. Must have used the same rivet company as the Titanic! I did not go for the Toyota upgrade to a bigger Tacoma , as it was already paid for. Not a spec of rust, in the garage every night. 16 years old .
 

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1995 Toyota Tacoma XCab. 4WD Manual. V-6. My work truck I own and bought low mileage used. I keep them a long time and get reimbursed mileage from my employer. This truck made me enough mileage money to pay for itself and then for a new 4Runner a while back. It is continuing to work for its replacement when it pukes, another Taco. You will notice the speedometer needle fell off, the cruise control and odometer still work though. GPS is my speedometer. The picture was around 5,000 miles ago. This truck has lived with minimal maintenance. 25,000 mile oil change intervals with synthetic.

To date, head gaskets, some engine seals, a water pump, 1 clutch, 2 lower ball joints, front wheel bearings. Still only burns about a quart of oil every 7,500 miles. Still driving it daily. Frame was recalled, but only had a little rust. I never wash it (work truck, I'm lazy) and we get salt here. Minor body rust. This is not my first Toyota to make it this far, when I sell them they aren't worth much.
 

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My MazdaSpeeed 3 is 5 years old and I plan to keep it a few more years. I did have an Explorer I held onto for twelve years and 275K miles.
 

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Yea old thread but interesting.... retired so no loans. I gave my son my last Ford Lariat F150 Screw 5.4L V8 when it hit 200k miles. I had a Honda Accord for 175k miles and a Toyota Camry and Subaru GT Legacy Limited for about the same. Bad things start happening after that. My last Ford truck so far was the most reliable vehicle I have even owned. Subaru and Toyota the most problematic.

2013 Ford Escape Titanium 2.0 Eco 40k
2014 Ford Lariat F150 SCrew 3.5 Eco 16k
2014 V-Strom 1000 2100 miles
2013 Honda PCX 150 2850 miles
 

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1987

The 37 in 1987 with my just got 1984 FXST first year fir evo and softtail. Often took my drag bikes to the strip in the old truck.The full fendered rat all ways had more around it than the bike.Its at a street rodder friends place now and we have been getting it back to drive any where I want shape again.I like rat rods but like to go where I want in them.Its the only wheels thing I own now older than me.Had more 32 chevy sedan,36 Ford pu,36 Ply coupe,38 chevy pu, but have hung on to this old rat since 1977. The 1938 pu is a over $75,000 build show truck now.
 
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