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Discussion Starter #1
Before I got the Strom, I was searching for a shaft driven bike. I didn't like the idea of maintaining a chain and thought they could randomly fail or that the chain and sprockets had to be changed yearly.

People assured me that this was not the case.


I just looked over the "Used bike Checkup" paperwork that came with my used 2012 V-Strom. The dealership looks over every bike when it comes in as a trade-in.

Oil change and a new OEM chain.

I find it hard to believe that the dealership would needlessly throw out $150 in a chain.
What would cause a chain to fail in less than one year and with only 6500 miles on it?
 

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I doubt if they'd throw out a $150.00 dollar chain either. Then again, they didn't pay $150.00 for the chain, but I bet YOU did, when you bought the bike....

All cynicism aside, It's probably possible to wear out a chain that quick if you never lubed it, and rode in dirty wet conditions, or it wasn't adjusted correctly, or it was a defective chain.
 

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You can tear up a chain in several hundred miles if you get it sandy/dusty/gritty/dirty and don't keep it lubed.
 

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20k is probably a good estimate for a chain's life, under average use and average maintenance.

I have gotten 40k out of a chain but I count that as the exception. I have also gotten 14k (less really, I just ran the chain way longer than I should have to get to 14k) but I also count that as the exception going the other way.

Random failure is almost unheard of. Replacing it every year is unnecessary, it's a factor of mileage and maintenance, not time.

If that was the OEM chain they replaced, my guess is it was badly neglected and probably just nasty - rusty, kinked links, etc. It would have made the bike a harder sell. No new sprockets though?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I doubt if they'd throw out a $150.00 dollar chain either. Then again, they didn't pay $150.00 for the chain, but I bet YOU did, when you bought the bike...
2012 Adventure with 6500 on the clock.
$6500 before taxes and etc.
Another $400 on extended warranty.

I think I did all right. :)

No new sprockets though?
Not on the parts list.

Oil, Filter, Some kinda gasket (I'll have to check the paperwork for the part number.) and chain.

That's it.
 

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The last two chains that I replaced were at 46,000+ miles and 41,000+ miles and in both cases had some life left on them. The 46,000+ one was a DID X-ring chain on my 2006 DL650 and the 41,000 + one was the OEM chain on my 2012 DL650. When I rallied the last I had a few chain incidents happen around me (unreleased to me) and I was leaving on a long ride so thought I wouldn't taunt Murphy. My 2012 is used to commute a lot but my commute generally includes riding on unpaved roads for part of the ride. I ride in all kinds of conditions including rain, salted roads, occasional snow and higher speeds.

I never clean my chain (as I don't think it does anything useful anyway) but lube my chain with every tank of fuel and after every ride in the rain. I use Wurth HHS 2000 (called 2K in some areas) and take about 10 seconds to lube with my bike sitting on the center stand.

..Tom
 

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I would say average chain life is in the 16k-18k range, diligent maintenance will get you more miles

IMHO the only reason to replace a chain prematurely is if your going on a long trip and don't want the hassle of doing it mid trip

keep an eye on sprockets, if you rely on engine braking, your sprockets (front especially) are likely to wear before the chain



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keep an eye on sprockets, if you rely on engine braking, your sprockets (front especially) are likely to wear before the chain
I am sceptical about this, because the force and duration are very negligible compared to acceleration or maintaining speed. Also this not apply on the same side of the tooths of the sprocket. :confused:
 

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I am sceptical about this, because the force and duration are very negligible compared to acceleration or maintaining speed. Also this not apply on the same side of the tooths of the sprocket. :confused:
if that is the case, you don't engine brake much

because it is on the opposite side of the teeth, it accelerates wear weakening the teeth even faster, there is a lot more force slowing a bike down than there is accelerating



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I use Wurth HHS 2000 (called 2K in some areas) and take about 10 seconds to lube with my bike sitting on the center stand.
..Tom
Thanks for sharing! Do you get any fling off the chain with the Wurth product? Thinking of using it on my Tiger 1050 which has polished aluminum rims and shows fling badly. I was using the now-unavailable Dupont teflon/wax dry lube, and am now looking for something clean and good.
 

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2012 Adventure with 6500 on the clock.
$6500 before taxes and etc.
Another $400 on extended warranty.

I think I did all right. :)
Oh, no doubt, that's a decent price. I didn't mean to imply you got screwed, only that I suspect that the price of that chain went into the price of the bike; most dealers definitely don't have the reputation of giving stuff away LOL.
 

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Thanks for sharing! Do you get any fling off the chain with the Wurth product? Thinking of using it on my Tiger 1050 which has polished aluminum rims and shows fling badly. I was using the now-unavailable Dupont teflon/wax dry lube, and am now looking for something clean and good.
Yes it's messy stuff! I have changed the way I am applying it and that seemed to cut it back a bit. In the past I would spray it at the rear sprocket when the bike was idling in first (on the centre-stand). Yes I understood the risks.. I was spraying on the outside of the chain/sprocket from a few inches away.

I'm now doing it with the engine off turning the wheel by hand spraying in the area just behind the front sprocket. It is still somewhat messy but not nearly as bad as the back area.


I don't think engine braking has much to do with it but my front sprockets need to be replaced in the 35,000 to 40,000 miles range.

..Tom
 

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I engine brake like crazy, have never noticed any unusual or quicker wear. Matter of fact my sprockets typically still look like new at 16K, I see no reason to change them with a new chain.
 

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Recycle the rear sprocket.

(I apologize to folks who have read this before;
I am writing because I think can save the OP some money.)

My Wee-Strom has carried me 77000 miles, and is half-way through
its fourth chain. A chain and a front sprocket last me 22000 miles,
and when they reach that distance, they are making unmistakeable
"replace me" noises.

But the rear sprocket has three times as many teeth as the front one,
so it stands to reason that it can go at least twice as far. The trouble
is that simply running the rear sprocket 44000 miles invites increased
chain wear, because the worn teeth are not quite spaced the same as
the new teeth on the new front sprocket.

SOLUTION: Remove the rear sprocket at 22000 miles, and reverse it,
and use it that way while you use your second front sprocket and chain.

I have done this twice, and I am sure I have saved twice the price
of a rear sprocket over seven years. A small economy to be sure,
but a victory.

Be sure to add five washers, inboard of the reversed rear sprocket,
to restore the alignment of the chain. The sprocket is asymmetrical.

Just one rider's observations.
Keith
 

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Are you sure you got a new chain?

Anyone, are the 2012 original chains endless like the earlier stroms? No master link? And, what is the make & model stamped on the original chain side plates (still DID?)?

Pele, you should see a riveted master link that looks something like this:
Welcome to RK Excel America - FAQ
And you should see the edge of the o-rings under the side plates as shown in the top two photos.

A clip-type master link is subject to great debate about its security. No master link indicates the endless original chain installed at the factory before the swing arm was installed (if the 2012 was like the earlier stroms). If there are make and model info on the side plates of the chain you can look up the price of the chain and see if you got a decent one. If not, budget for an early replacement.
 

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Glee and Wee have had the same chain since 2007. Kinked links are one reason to replace a chain regardless of mileage.

 

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Yes it's messy stuff! I have changed the way I am applying it and that seemed to cut it back a bit. In the past I would spray it at the rear sprocket when the bike was idling in first (on the centre-stand). Yes I understood the risks.. I was spraying on the outside of the chain/sprocket from a few inches away.

I'm now doing it with the engine off turning the wheel by hand spraying in the area just behind the front sprocket. It is still somewhat messy but not nearly as bad as the back area.
..Tom
Okay, thanks for sharing. I spray the bottom of the chain behind the front sprocket on the assumption that gravity and centrifugal force will move it to the top anyway (engine off, spinning the tire by hand). I spray liberally, then immediately wipe lightly by gently holding a clean rag around the chain and pulling it through the rag a couple of revolutions. Guess I'll go ahead and try the Wurth and see what happens. It would be nice to have good chain protection and a clean rear rim. Here's hoping!
 

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i wouldn't bother wiping. fling is going to happen regardless and WD40 makes quick work of cleanup.

that being said, i did just have to replace my OE chain at 10500 miles. i blame a failed o-ring because the rest of the chain is perfectly fine. oh well. new chain on and back on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Not on the parts list.

Oil, Filter, Some kinda gasket (I'll have to check the paperwork for the part number.) and chain.

That's it.
Okay, Here's what the parts bill looks like:

4x QT 10w40 Motorcycle Oil - $6.20ea - $24.80
1x 16510-07J00 Filter Assy, Eng - $13.07
1x 09168-12002 Gasket Oil Gallery - $1.26
1x 525VX-120L (DID 525VX X 120ZB Chain) - $148.43

First of all, four quarts? Seriously?

Secondly... That appears to be an aftermarket X-Ring chain with a master link.
Should I leave this on there or go with an OE style, O-Ring, continuous chain?
 
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