StromTrooper banner

1 - 20 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

This is a weird post but I really need some advice here. I’ve had my 2005 DL1000 for a year now and sadly have run into a lot of issues. I think I need to sell it but am not sure how to value it because of some really significant “cons” that work against the “pros.”

I bought it at 38k miles, it was running good, looked clean, and fully loaded with full Happy Trails racks and side boxes and top case and engine guards and bash guard, Two Brothers exhaust etc. It was a luxury bike for me and I paid $4,000 for it, which is about what they go for on Craigslist in the LA area.

At about 41k miles, I went to change the oil and found that the drain hole threading was stripped and hand loctite on there. Long story short, I tried to rethread it and put a crack in the motor (which btw ruined my summer). My mechanic recommended me to his buddy who is a welder and mostly works on turbos and is great at welding aluminum. His welds fixed the crack and he rethreaded it. The crack didn’t leak but the threads had a slow leak (few drops per day). I was just glad the bike was running again as I could deal with the oil leak by being careful. The job cost me $600.

At about 44k, bike stopped idling. Took it to mechanic and he took the bike apart to diagnose everything and he told me the Power Commander 3 has gone bad but it runs just fine without it on, so I asked him to take it off. I also asked him to do a full service on the bike (air filter, spark plugs, throttle bodies, all fluids, all lubing, fresh rear brake pads). And THEN, after all this, I am now experiencig the surge” or “the bog” that this motor is known for right between the 3-4k RPM range. I think the Power Commander was masking the surge problem. So after the $600 repair + full service, I am feeling pretty discouraged. At this point I just want to sell it and buy a simple bike that runs reliably and smoothly with no leaks or surges. No more bike drama.

I’ve accepted that it’s gonna be hard to find a buyer given the cracked motor and surging acceleration. I can take my time and will hopefully find a mechanic type who wants to buy it and maybe swap the motor or something, idk.

I’m ready to put it up on Craigslist, but what should I value it’s selling price at? I want to be honest about the crack and leak and surge. I’m thinking of that I’ll be lucky to get $2000 for it, even in the LA area. Does anyone have some advice for me?

As a side note, I miss my 650 now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,864 Posts
Not sure what to advise on the price in your case. Have you been to a dealer? If you plan on replacing your Vee with another bike, ask what you can get for it as a trade-in. You will have a better idea of a price and can then decide which route to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
I haven't seen very many 2005 1000's that have not needed a PC, I've owned two of them, and both ran great after the install. So you can either spend the $220 on the PCFC and get it running correctly and deal with the oil drip, or get rid of it and try to find something different.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,729 Posts
The PC was not masking the surge, it was correcting it. On my 2007 bike, I just had the stock ECM reprogrammed to get rid of the surge,a cheaper option.

As for the oil leak, try Teflon tape or Teflon paste on the drain bolt threads. My Harley taught me this trick.

I have no idea what it is worth.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
16,876 Posts
Post number 4 is spot on, and the old first gen 1000’s don’t sell well even when they are looking and running perfect. Yup you should’ve kept your 650 or got a 14 and up 1000.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,178 Posts
I would have a specialist look at that leaking oil screw, it may be an easy fix with a helicoil, or with some kind of sealant.

The power commander you simply need to replace. It makes this bike rideable, and I would not even consider one of these without it. Put it back in, fix the leak, and your good. Go riding.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,874 Posts
Try pawning it off at Bert's Mega Mall in Covina. They have had some nice used Wee Stroms at good prices before.
For them to have nice strom's at good prices means they don't pay a lot for trades.

Not knowing what the left coast is doing price wise but in the North East USA I'd list the bike in the $1,500 to $2,000 range and hope a buyer come along sooner than later and take the 1st pile of cash waved under my nose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,874 Posts
The PC was not masking the surge, it was correcting it. On my 2007 bike, I just had the stock ECM reprogrammed to get rid of the surge,a cheaper option.

As for the oil leak, try Teflon tape or Teflon paste on the drain bolt threads. My Harley taught me this trick.

I have no idea what it is worth.
Teflon tap dope and pipe dope are not thread sealants, they are thread lubricants. The interference fit of tapered threads is the "seal".

Power Commanders DO NOT correct fueling they issues simply enrichen or lean out chunks of the fuel map. These values are set and are unaffected by air temperatures or elevation changes. Open loop systems are not a whole lot different than a jetted carb. To make changes to a open loop fuel map you need to open then ECU with software and manually change values for different throttle positions.

FatDuc fuel manipulators were nothing more than dumbed down Power Commanders that fooled the fueling with inline resistors.

A Power Commander coupled with an O2 optimizer making the fueling a "closed loop" system will correct fuel issues because it had the ability to collect and analyze data then make corrective changes to the fueling many times per second.
 

·
Official Stromtrooper.com Sponsor
Joined
·
5,150 Posts
Teflon tap dope and pipe dope are not thread sealants, they are thread lubricants. The interference fit of tapered threads is the "seal".
You sure about that?

Especially important as drain plugs on these bikes are not tapered "pipe" threads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Thank you all for the helpful feedback. I guess I’ll look into a new PC. Do you know if I have to lift the tank to install it? And after I install it, can I just load a new fuel map with the software, or are there more steps involved? I’ve changed the fuel map once before so am familiar with that process but never installed one from scratch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,874 Posts
You sure about that?

Especially important as drain plugs on these bikes are not tapered "pipe" threads.
I'm not sure, I'm 100% positive. Drain plugs on motorcycles are sealed with crush washers not a lubricating compound on tapered threads.

As a member of the Local 520 plumbers and pipefitters for the last 27 years I am well aware of what tape and paste dope does and why it is used.

There are thread lockers, thread sealants and thread lubricants. Teflon tape is the latter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
749 Posts
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thread_seal_tape

According to Wikipedia:
Thread seal tape (also known as PTFE tape, Teflon tape, or plumber's tape) is a polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) film tape commonly used in plumbing for sealing pipe threads. The tape is sold cut to specific widths and wound on a spool, making it easy to wind around pipe threads. Thread seal tape lubricates allowing for a deeper seating of the threads, and it helps prevent the threads from seizing when being unscrewed. The tape also works as a deformable filler and thread lubricant, helping to seal the joint without hardening or making it more difficult to tighten, and instead making it easier to tighten.
 

·
Official Stromtrooper.com Sponsor
Joined
·
5,150 Posts
I'm not sure, I'm 100% positive. Drain plugs on motorcycles are sealed with crush washers not a lubricating compound on tapered threads.

As a member of the Local 520 plumbers and pipefitters for the last 27 years I am well aware of what tape and paste dope does and why it is used.

There are thread lockers, thread sealants and thread lubricants. Teflon tape is the latter.

I didn't go to plumbing school. Have no idea what they teach. I don't know of a single motorcycle engine with a tapered thread drain plug made in the last 40 years. Examples of tapered threads are wood screws and pipe threads. The starting end diameter is always smaller and increases as it threads in. A straight thread is what you find in machine screws/bolts. You, being a plumber should know that. Most drain plugs have straight threads with a crush washer or other seal as the secondary sealing surface.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,729 Posts
Teflon tap dope and pipe dope are not thread sealants, they are thread lubricants. The interference fit of tapered threads is the "seal".

Power Commanders DO NOT correct fueling they issues simply enrichen or lean out chunks of the fuel map. These values are set and are unaffected by air temperatures or elevation changes. Open loop systems are not a whole lot different than a jetted carb. To make changes to a open loop fuel map you need to open then ECU with software and manually change values for different throttle positions.

FatDuc fuel manipulators were nothing more than dumbed down Power Commanders that fooled the fueling with inline resistors.

A Power Commander coupled with an O2 optimizer making the fueling a "closed loop" system will correct fuel issues because it had the ability to collect and analyze data then make corrective changes to the fueling many times per second.
I was counting the hours till my stalker returned.

Do you read what you type?

"Power Commanders DO NOT correct fueling they issues simply enrichen or lean out chunks of the fuel map" Instead of correct what word would you use? - I know the difference between remapping an ECU and what a PC does. I fully understand open loop versus closed loop systems.

"Teflon tap dope and pipe dope are not thread sealants, they are thread lubricants." -I direct you to the other posters who provided the same correct information as I did, since for some reason you like to assume I am wrong. I am glad you informed me the sealing washer was a seal, I quit using them years ago and just spit on my drain plugs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,874 Posts
I didn't go to plumbing school. Have no idea what they teach. I don't know of a single motorcycle engine with a tapered thread drain plug made in the last 40 years. Examples of tapered threads are wood screws and pipe threads. The starting end diameter is always smaller and increases as it threads in. A straight thread is what you find in machine screws/bolts. You, being a plumber should know that. Most drain plugs have straight threads with a crush washer or other seal as the secondary sealing surface.

A wood screw not a tapered thread. It more like a drill bit and has a pointed tip to help it get started then quickly tapers out and has straight walls.

Yes, I pointed out the most oil drain plugs are sealed by a crush washer. Other by a o-ring or fiber washer. I made no mention of drain plugs on motorcycles being tapered.

I did mention that teflon tapes and pipe dope is for lubricating threads. I encourage everyone in disbelief to go to the hardware tore get a couple of screw fitting and pipe nipples and put them together dry then again with 2-1/2 wraps of teflon tape. The dry joints will gauld and not screw in as far so you have less of an interference fit. The one with teflon tape since the threads are lubricated will thread in further with gaulding increasing the interference fit lessening the chance of leakage. You also put the the tape or dope on the male threads so when you thread it into the female threads it pushed back and not into the pipe leaving only a very thin lubricating film on the threads. Again don;t believe me take the threads you just assembled using teflon tape apart and see how much teflon is left on the threads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,874 Posts
I was counting the hours till my stalker returned.

Do you read what you type?

"Power Commanders DO NOT correct fueling they issues simply enrichen or lean out chunks of the fuel map" Instead of correct what word would you use? - I know the difference between remapping an ECU and what a PC does. I fully understand open loop versus closed loop systems.

"Teflon tap dope and pipe dope are not thread sealants, they are thread lubricants." -I direct you to the other posters who provided the same correct information as I did, since for some reason you like to assume I am wrong. I am glad you informed me the sealing washer was a seal, I quit using them years ago and just spit on my drain plugs.
I would use the word "mask" or the words "gloss over". Unless your fueling is running closed loop it cannot self adjust to compensate for changing conditions you are not correcting the problems you are covering them up.

I do not assume you are wrong. You simply are wrong and in a lot of instances. It has nothing to do with me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
273 Posts
Do you know if I have to lift the tank to install it? And after I install it, can I just load a new fuel map with the software, or are there more steps involved?

You'll probably have to lift the tank and remove the airbox. PC has to be plugged into the injectors.

Afterwards you can upload a new fuel map. Dynojet has a bunch on their website. Pick one that most closely describes your setup.

Power Commander Motorcycle Fuel Injection Tuning Module

OR.. You can find someone with a dyno that can do a custom tune. This is best case scenario, but also most expensive.
 

·
Official Stromtrooper.com Sponsor
Joined
·
5,150 Posts
A wood screw not a tapered thread. It more like a drill bit and has a pointed tip to help it get started then quickly tapers out and has straight walls.
Do you understand you just contradicted yourself with your own post? Yes, wood screws are tapered. Not always the full length of the shaft. And for a different purpose from NPT tapered threads.

We will stick to NPT since you are a plumber.

Yes, teflon tape acts as a lubricant. As does pipe dope. As does Loctite on straight machine threads. As does the spit STCorndog puts on his drainplug. You allow for that in situations where torque is applied. But in NPT applications thread count is the common "torque" value. As in how many threads go in after finger tight. If lubrication was the purpose of teflon tape or pipe dope, I would just use a squirt of oil or whatever common lube was compatible with the materials and use.

Straight from the HOKE fittings installation guide. Scroll down to page 7.

I looked over several sites dedicated to the use of sealers on NPT components. ALL are calling teflon and pipe dope sealers........
 
1 - 20 of 38 Posts
Top