Smarter minds than mine will answer but I believe I have read that there is no real point in synchronizing the 2014+ DL1000 unless you have the full electronic diagnostic equipment and even then it only affect idle.
I don't know if this link will work for you but check it out. DL1000A (L4) SERVICE MANUAL
The instructions specify how to use the Suzuki SDS tool. You'll have to check the HealTech Suzuki OBD tool instructions for how to lock/set the ISC valve when using it.
It says the fuel tank needs to be lifted and the air box taken off.
Disconnect the IAP sensor vacuum hoses (1) from the throttle body.
Connect the respective vacuum tester hoses (1) to each vacuum nipple on the throttle body.
Equalize the vacuum of the cylinders by turning each synchronizing screws (1) and keep it turning at idling speed. NOTE: Always set the engine speed at idle speed.
VTom. I have read a couple of times that the sync is not always perfect from the factory. Having too much time on my hands and also being hundreds of kms from the nearest dealer I decided to do it...'for the Halibut'.
GW. I am now set up with all the necessary tools including one fat shop manual that arrived last week. I fully know how to tackle it and it may happen this fall or next spring. My question was can I get to the vacuum nipples by simply lifting the tank. Then I can just plug in the wifi sync gauge and see whats what.
You don't have free vacuum nipples like the older bikes did. You have to take the hoses from the IAP sensors off the throttle body. The manual says you need to take off the airbox but the manual has said things that were wrong before. See if you can get at the hoses and air screws and you can tell us.
I did mine and noticed a difference at low rpms. seems smoother.Both my older Vees were very sensitive to throttle body sync.My DL650s not so much.
I will do mine again this winter. Not sure if you can do it without removing the airbox...not with my hands for sure ! LOL
Im just realizing. Back in the carb days I always had fuel in the carbs to get a sync reading. If I have to disconnect the tank that aint happening with FI. Hopefully I can just block it up to reach those damn nipples.
The gist of the procedure seems to be to take the tank and airbox off then put the tank back on in the propped position. I wouldn't be surprised if the procedure is done with an FI showing because the IAP sensor vacuum hoses are disconnected.
I was just down there. (The carport). After removing all the panelling I lifted the tank and it didn't gain me much. I then removed the front bolt and and pulled the tank off its rubbers without disconnecting anything. Propped it with the rear hod down bracket. I then found both AIPs on the left side totally exposed. Should now be an easy matter to pull the hoses and put them on the tool. Gonna warm up the bike first. Also have to figure out how to sync the tool to my phone. (just got the free download from Google Playstore.) Will let you all know shortly.:grin2:
Yep. Not much wiggle room. Hard to switch em.
Anyhoo. Did it. The gizmo shows 39 right and 36.5 left. As I don't have a garage and it's purdy cold and wet around these parts I am not sure when I will tackle this. But it will happen along with a valve check by the spring.
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