StromTrooper banner
1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need to ask the experts...On a DL1000, how do you best access the nuts on the bottom side of the top triple clamp in order to remove the handlebar clamps? I purchased a new ProTaper Raptor bar and oversize Renthal handlebar clamps but see that there is limited access to reach these mounting nuts. How much bodywork needs to be removed in order to get a socket or wrench on the nuts holding the lower handlebar holder? Has anyone found a good way to reach these with minimal or no disassembly? I did a search but came up empty...but I know many 'Strommers have changed out bars for those with a more comfortable bend. Thanks in advance!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
I found a telescoping socket extension with a pivoting T-handle at Northern Tool. It does the job from underneath the fairing without having to remove any plastic:

AmPro Foldable Extension Handle with Flex Adapter — 3/8in.-Drive, Model# T20752 | Ratchets + Handles | Northern Tool + Equipment

I know many 'Strommers have changed out bars for those with a more comfortable bend...
Changing to a more comfortable bend does not necessarily require removing the lower handlebar mounts (if I'm reading you correctly). I'm using ProTaper bars, but they are not the...uh...tapered ones that are thicker than 7/8 in at the mounting points.

My reason for unbolting the mounts was to do away with the rubber bushings on my first DL1000 (an '03). I replaced them with some rigid nylon bushings I made. To my surprise, the bar mountings on the second DL1000 (an '06) are not nearly as mushy. I guess the ones on the '03 were just sacked (the nuts were quite tight), even though it had fewer miles on it when I bought it than did the '06.

I still halfway expect the bushings on the '06 to develop the flexi-flyer syndrome; when they do, I'll do the same thing to it (unless someone comes up with a good aftermarket solution to rigid-mount the bars. Seems to me a great opportunity for someone with the capability of making some drop-in replacements for the tapered rubber bushings out of aluminum.

I much prefer rigidly-mounted bars, and can't see any justification for the rubber mounts on the 1K. Nor for the bar-end weights, for that matter. Nor especially for the absurdly weak stock bars.

James
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top