[Sladep]

Even quality chains like EK and RK have shorter lifespans ridden in the wet and not oiled. Not much sucks more at the end of a long day than seeing sticky red dust of death (the factory grease + rust) on your not-sealed-anymore chain.

I street parked and commuted every day without snow between 2012 and 2018 and covered 100k miles in that time, wearing out 5 chains. I followed "don't bother oiling it, not needed" advice for the first few and got 16-17k on average. Then on a hunch I started oiling them after riding in the nasty, and they started lasting a lot longer.

Using oil as opposed to something super tacky, dirt flings off and you don't need to clean it. Sealed chains might not need it as often, but they still do if you want them to last through weather. Your use case or experience may be different but it's a no-brainer for me now.

100% true, all of it

 

[pshell]

[I searched, but did not find any discussion on this . . . ]
I can't seem to find a good way to carry oil for my chain. Bottles can be sealed, but they make application hard to do. Squirt bottles make application easier, but they always seem to leak. Aerosol cans don't leak (unless you forget to put the cap on), but they are bulky and not cheap (and seem to go all over the place unless you have the small red spray tube - that always gets lost on the road). Maybe there is a bottle that has a good way to apply the oil? Or a squirt bottle that does not leak? Or an aerosol can that is small and not expensive and . . . you can't lose the small spray tube? Any suggestions?

I use 90 weight gear oil. I went to Walmart and bought a small glue bottle in school supplies for about $1.29 and washed it out well. It has a screw down spout. A full bottle will oil the chain about 6 times (about 2000 miles worth every 300 miles). Store it in a zip lock freezer bag with a rag and a couple of paper towels. Doesn't take up much room. You could also store that in a large mouth plastic bottle or pint fruit jar for cleanliness.

 

[D.T.]

Yeah, all you really need is something in a small squeeze bottle.

 

[Sladep]

I use 90 weight gear oil. I went to Walmart and bought a small glue bottle in school supplies for about $1.29 and washed it out well. It has a screw down spout. A full bottle will oil the chain about 6 times (about 2000 miles worth every 300 miles). Store it in a zip lock freezer bag with a rag and a couple of paper towels. Doesn't take up much room. You could also store that in a large mouth plastic bottle or pint fruit jar for cleanliness.

Pretty darn clever

 

[StretchNM]

What happened to chains not needing oiling? I mean, I'm oiling (waxing with Chain Saver) mine and will continue, until........., but what happened to the dissention and argument that O-ring chains (especially gold ones) didn;t need oil and it in fact gunked them up? I'm just trying to get this straight in my head so I'm not shortening the life of my chain with wax (or oil).

 

[oldjeep]

What happened to chains not needing oiling? I mean, I'm oiling (waxing with Chain Saver) mine and will continue, until........., but what happened to the dissention and argument that O-ring chains (especially gold ones) didn;t need oil and it in fact gunked them up? I'm just trying to get this straight in my head so I'm not shortening the life of my chain with wax (or oil).

They don't - but do whatever makes you feel good

 

[Motorpsychology]

The O- or X-rings in a sealed chain willl keep the internal pins lubed for the life of the chain. However, regular lubing of the chain extends the life of the rollers and sprocket teeth. Using a Teflon lube like Du Pont Chain Saver also shed dirt and road film with very little buildup on the swingarm or behind the sprocket cover, and from what I read on the Forum, Scott and Tutruo automatic oilers do as well.

 

[Sladep]

The O- or X-rings in a sealed chain willl keep the internal pins lubed for the life of the chain. However, regular lubing of the chain extends the life of the rollers and sprocket teeth. Using a Teflon lube like Du Pont Chain Saver also shed dirt and road film with very little buildup on the swingarm or behind the sprocket cover, and from what I read on the Forum, Scott and Tutruo automatic oilers do as well.

All good points. I am amazed by how the slight bit of oiling my Toturo auto oiler does keeps the chain so clean. Also, I have started spraying my chain with WD-40 after I wash the bike. To minimize mess, I put a double-folded paper towel under and behind the chain under the swingarm, spray that section, then move it and repeat, then wipe off the excess.

It removes the water and makes the o-rings and the plates around them rotate a lot better and more freely. No kinking, binding, or other bad behavior and it almost never needs adjustment. The Toturo and WD-40 method is working great.

 

[D.T.]

They just need mini grease zerks on each pin so you can regrease the O-ring chains.

 

[Sladep]

They just need mini grease zerks on each pin so you can regrease the O-ring chains.

I'm working on that haha

 

[senoje]

Loobman out of the UK with now a single feed (tutruo kit) at the rear sproket. Use 80/90 Mobil 1 mix with 30wt compresser oil, it flows to the chain at under 55 dergree ride, notice how dirty that chain is (sarc) I've been known to drip lube that chain with Duponts liquid non-stick dry-film lube with Teflon while the scoot sits through some non-riding winter weeks

 

[BUZZ13]

I use 90 weight gear oil. I went to Walmart and bought a small glue bottle in school supplies for about $1.29 and washed it out well. It has a screw down spout. A full bottle will oil the chain about 6 times (about 2000 miles worth every 300 miles). Store it in a zip lock freezer bag with a rag and a couple of paper towels. Doesn't take up much room. You could also store that in a large mouth plastic bottle or pint fruit

All good points. I am amazed by how the slight bit of oiling my Toturo auto oiler does keeps the chain so clean. Also, I have started spraying my chain with WD-40 after I wash the bike. To minimize mess, I put a double-folded paper towel under and behind the chain under the swingarm, spray that section, then move it and repeat, then wipe off .

Loobman out of the UK with now a single feed (tutruo kit) at the rear sproket. Use 80/90 Mobil 1 mix with 30wt compresser oil, it flows to the chain at under 55 dergree ride, notice how dirty that chain is (sarc) I've been known to drip lube that chain with Duponts liquid non-stick dry-film lube with Teflon while the scoot sits through some non-riding winter weeks View attachment 313445

G'day from the land down under. Well I reckon there are as many opinions as there are motorcyclists on this topic. I live on a dirt road, what you would call the "outback", is my backyard/playground. I oil my chains. Ride like I stole it. And replace as necessary. That's how motorbikes work mate.

 

[senoje]

Here's a better shot

 

[locoblanco]

Well I reckon there are as many opinions as there are motorcyclists on this topic.

I once met someone who agreed with me, so that makes one less opinion.

 

[zenart]

I don't use any chain oil. The oil is in the whatchamacallthems. Modern chains don't need oil.

 

[D.T.]

I'm working on that haha

Not a thing yet. All I could find was this...1/2"

Or this, 57mm...

 

[Sladep]

Not a thing yet. All I could find was this...1/2"

View attachment 313626

Or this, 57mm...

View attachment 313627

You're on a roll!!!

 

[ERockJL]

As the OP, thanks for all the good info. Lots of great ideas, suggestions and methods. One question I have always had about chain oilers is about the amount of oil being slung all over. It sounds like this doesn't happen, but I am hard-pressed to see why it would not.

fling is a good thing in a way, its how you control it is the issue. I have a very clean chain because of the fling, but i did extend the chain guards to help minimize how much ends up on my cases. Not like its being drenched, but youll get a spot here and there that adds up if you dont stay after it. i have a thread on that in here. And of course play around with the adjustments to make sure youre getting just enough, thats number 1. I basically have two setting pretty close to one another, summer, then late fall/winter. Fling is a small price to pay IMO. The oiler really cut down on my chain adjustments, so cleaning here and there beats adjusting, again IMO.

 

[kstrom63]

Here's my setup. A small 3 or 4 ounce tube of oil. A soft bristle toothbrush, small nalgene bottle of kerosene and a rag all stored in a small DrySpec hard case tool roll mounted under left pannier. I brush oil on the underside of chain every 500 miles and drop toothbrush in kerosene to clean up. I use a 600w high pressure steam cylinder oil (Mobil Super 600) that doesn't sling off. Has consistently of honey or chain saw oil. Very clean wheel and rear end. Takes very little. Just saturate bristles with a streak or 2. I normally get 35-40k out of chain and sprockets. By the way that's highway miles with some forest service roads thrown in.