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As the OP, thanks for all the good info. Lots of great ideas, suggestions and methods. One question I have always had about chain oilers is about the amount of oil being slung all over. It sounds like this doesn't happen, but I am hard-pressed to see why it would not.
If adjusted incorrectly, they do throw a lot of oil. I had mine way too high once and found it about a third of the way onto the tire tread!! . This makes me worry that some Idiot would tweak it while parked. I'd like a way to lock the adjustment.
 
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I'm late to the party here, but has anyone suggested installing a vertical caddy in the ample (in my '05 650, anyway) front fairing interior cowl area? I've had an aluminum quart fuel bottle (with nitrile O-ring nylon lid in there for 12 years, as saved me from pushing the bike on a few occasions when I pressed my luck.
 

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Mo Mentum, one of the members here bought a bunch of small plastic bottles with a dauber attached to the inside of the cap. He was kind enough to sell them very cheaply and I've used it for many years. He got them at a hobby store. It seals perfectly and holds around two to three ounces of oil. About the size of a golf ball. No fuss or mess using it. It might have originally been designed to apply glue or something like that. Works like a charm.
 

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[I searched, but did not find any discussion on this . . . ]
I can't seem to find a good way to carry oil for my chain. Bottles can be sealed, but they make application hard to do. Squirt bottles make application easier, but they always seem to leak. Aerosol cans don't leak (unless you forget to put the cap on), but they are bulky and not cheap (and seem to go all over the place unless you have the small red spray tube - that always gets lost on the road). Maybe there is a bottle that has a good way to apply the oil? Or a squirt bottle that does not leak? Or an aerosol can that is small and not expensive and . . . you can't lose the small spray tube? Any suggestions?
I use chain wax! Its just easier and creates less mess, it doesn't attract dirt as much and definitely easier to carry on the bike! I have used both methods i used to use gear oil, so far I can't see any difference in wear protection one over the other, so for me Its chain Wax!
 

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@oldjeep & @Jaywhoisit - Don't your chains rust? A while back, my brother neglected his chain lubing and his chain rusted very quickly, kinking in many places in the process. Took only maybe a couple / few months before it was ragged enough he needed to swap it out again, if I remember correctly.

Similarly, before I got my oiler, if I rode in the rain (or even just on post-rain wet pavement) and neglected to lube after, my chain also started rusting quite quickly. I never let it get out of control like my meathead brother, but the process started fast.
 

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[I searched, but did not find any discussion on this . . . ]
I can't seem to find a good way to carry oil for my chain. Bottles can be sealed, but they make application hard to do. Squirt bottles make application easier, but they always seem to leak. Aerosol cans don't leak (unless you forget to put the cap on), but they are bulky and not cheap (and seem to go all over the place unless you have the small red spray tube - that always gets lost on the road). Maybe there is a bottle that has a good way to apply the oil? Or a squirt bottle that does not leak? Or an aerosol can that is small and not expensive and . . . you can't lose the small spray tube? Any suggestions?
G'day from the land down under. Well, with 30km of dirt just to check my mailbox, chains and oil are a big issue for me. I generally carry a can of bel ray under the seat (not the wax type) and give mine a wipe and spray when I hit blacktop. Once I find a sealed road it's a long way to anywhere from here. Not too much of a hassle with a centre stand. Haven't seen an auto oiler but it would probably be a good accessory for my neighbourhood. Happy trails.
 

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@oldjeep & @Jaywhoisit - Don't your chains rust? A while back, my brother neglected his chain lubing and his chain rusted very quickly, kinking in many places in the process. Took only maybe a couple / few months before it was ragged enough he needed to swap it out again, if I remember correctly.

Similarly, before I got my oiler, if I rode in the rain (or even just on post-rain wet pavement) and neglected to lube after, my chain also started rusting quite quickly. I never let it get out of control like my meathead brother, but the process started fast.
Someone might care to correct me but the chains I buy are anodized (gold, etc). They don't rust like the "economy" chains I see.
 
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@oldjeep & @Jaywhoisit - Don't your chains rust? A while back, my brother neglected his chain lubing and his chain rusted very quickly, kinking in many places in the process. Took only maybe a couple / few months before it was ragged enough he needed to swap it out again, if I remember correctly.

Similarly, before I got my oiler, if I rode in the rain (or even just on post-rain wet pavement) and neglected to lube after, my chain also started rusting quite quickly. I never let it get out of control like my meathead brother, but the process started fast.
No. Quality chains don't seem to rust. I tend to buy the DID gold chains, not a spot of rust on it. Now I do a couple times a year take a WD-40 soaked rag and run the chain through my hand to clean off the little bit of dirt that sticks to it. (note - a sprocket tooth punches right through a thumnail if you are not paying attention)
 

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I tend to agree with you. I get much longer chain life by not spraying with “gunk”. I clean it every month with WD40 and a rag and forget about it. I get 45kkm average on most chains.
And even beyond that - the oil on the chain holds grit. When I bought my DL1000, the guy who owned it was a chronic chain luber. Chain had maybe 20K on it (according to him) it was super greasy, full of sand and the o-rings were stuck all over the inside of the sprocket cover.
 

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@NVDucati @oldjeep -- Good to know. I think we both have the VO or VX 'natural steel'. In the VX line, the gold finish isn't much more than the natural steel. Just might have to queue that one up for next time. Thanks!

Edit to add: From the VX gold pics I'm seeing, looks like the outer plates are gold, but the inner links are steel natural steel. Hmmmm. Ahh, depends on which VX model. Other models have gold inner links and outer plates.
 

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2006 to 105,000 mi, then 2005 DL650 over 50,000 mi
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I've been using Du Pont Chain Saver for a couple years. This is the cleanest chain lube I've found, and the stubby 3.5oz/71g can packs easily, and lasts a long time; I bought the 3.5oz can fall of 2021 and still has some left in it. It sprays on wet then dries and has almost zero fling. the chain stays clean with no grit stuck to it, although over time there is a little buildup on the swingarm junction and behind the sprocket cover, but it is not gritty. Good stuff.
Just because a chain is an O- or X-ring design, the rollers and sprockets still need regular lubing. The inner pins are the only sealed parts.
View attachment 313071
I use this same can of tiny lube, as well a the tiny matching bottle of wd40. Both of them, and a pair of cotton rubber coated gloves live in a plastic bag on my wet side case. The wet side has tent, cooking, sandals and everything that doesn't have to leave the bike at a motel in the rain. A few paper towels from a gas station also end up in that bag.
 

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Maybe I'm missing something here. Modern sealed o-ring chains only require chain wax to keep them from rusting. If your chain is getting kink it's time to replace it. That being said, standard motorcycle chain needs to be cleaned and oiled frequently.
Keep in mind some oils can eat some types of compounds used in seals. That includes silicone. Some rubber compounds used in CV boots, cable covers, etc. actually can start breaking down.
Lessons learned over 50yrs of riding and turning wrenches for a living.
 

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If you want a semi-auto oiler there's a bunch of these things on eBay:





Apparently you turn the top cap 1/4 turn and it releases about 3cc of your favorite oil over the next 3 minutes down onto your chain. Reservoir is good for about 15 shots.



EDIT: Holy crap that's a dodgy place to mount the reservoir....😂 .
 

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[I searched, but did not find any discussion on this . . . ]
I can't seem to find a good way to carry oil for my chain. Bottles can be sealed, but they make application hard to do. Squirt bottles make application easier, but they always seem to leak. Aerosol cans don't leak (unless you forget to put the cap on), but they are bulky and not cheap (and seem to go all over the place unless you have the small red spray tube - that always gets lost on the road). Maybe there is a bottle that has a good way to apply the oil? Or a squirt bottle that does not leak? Or an aerosol can that is small and not expensive and . . . you can't lose the small spray tube? Any suggestions?
I carry a small jar of final gear oil. What I used in my Super Tenere and FJR along with a very skinny paintbrush. I just "paint" a thin layer of final drive oil on the chain when I stop riding that evening. Seems to work as well as any spray chain lube I've ever used. I admit though I am seriously considering going to a Torturo chain-oiler.

As I reach further into decade 7 ... the idea of staying off my hands and knees after every ride is gaining a lot of appeal!!!:)
 
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They don't suggest you use motor oil and especially not tranny fluid. The best alternative according to Tutoro is 30 weight hydraulic oil from I remember.
The Toturo oil is excellent. It coats the chain well yet has very little fling, and to top it off, consumes very little oil. The chain requires very infrequent adjustment, and that's being ridden pretty hard. The Toturo oil is expensive, but the consumption is so small it becomes irrelevant.
 

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I carry a small jar of final gear oil. What I used in my Super Tenere and FJR along with a very skinny paintbrush. I just "paint" a thin layer of final drive oil on the chain when I stop riding that evening. Seems to work as well as any spray chain lube I've ever used. I admit though I am seriously considering going to a Torturo chain-oiler.

As I reach further into decade 7 ... the idea of staying off my hands and knees after every ride is gaining a lot of appeal!!!:)
Just wait til you get that Toruro. No more on your knees applying chain lube, cleaning dirty chains, more frequent adjustments.
 

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No. Quality chains don't seem to rust. I tend to buy the DID gold chains, not a spot of rust on it. Now I do a couple times a year take a WD-40 soaked rag and run the chain through my hand to clean off the little bit of dirt that sticks to it. (note - a sprocket tooth punches right through a thumnail if you are not paying attention)
Even quality chains like EK and RK have shorter lifespans ridden in the wet and not oiled. Not much sucks more at the end of a long day than seeing sticky red dust of death (the factory grease + rust) on your not-sealed-anymore chain.

I street parked and commuted every day without snow between 2012 and 2018 and covered 100k miles in that time, wearing out 5 chains. I followed "don't bother oiling it, not needed" advice for the first few and got 16-17k on average. Then on a hunch I started oiling them after riding in the nasty, and they started lasting a lot longer.

Using oil as opposed to something super tacky, dirt flings off and you don't need to clean it. Sealed chains might not need it as often, but they still do if you want them to last through weather. Your use case or experience may be different but it's a no-brainer for me now.
 
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