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Back in the day before chain lube proper even existed, I couldn't have bacon, so I'd pack a metal cigar tube with John Morrell Snocap lard (the best). And then attach the tube to the exhaust pipe with an old hose clamp. After a few miles, the lard had liquified a bit, and I'd pour it on the warmed up chain and work it in with a boar's hair brush.

The lard can be used as a salve for burns or you can drink it in a pinch for a calorie boost. Excellent fire starter too. And you can fashion a rudimentary candle from the cigar tube by braiding a few of the boar bristles into a wick.
 

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[I searched, but did not find any discussion on this . . . ]
I can't seem to find a good way to carry oil for my chain. Bottles can be sealed, but they make application hard to do. Squirt bottles make application easier, but they always seem to leak. Aerosol cans don't leak (unless you forget to put the cap on), but they are bulky and not cheap (and seem to go all over the place unless you have the small red spray tube - that always gets lost on the road). Maybe there is a bottle that has a good way to apply the oil? Or a squirt bottle that does not leak? Or an aerosol can that is small and not expensive and . . . you can't lose the small spray tube? Any suggestions?
I use 80 weight in a tube.
Set it up vertically in your side case.
 

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A small spray can and a length of 1” PVC pipe or pine trim to lift the rear wheel off the ground if you don’t have a center stand. This might also come in handy if you have a flat tire.
 

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Too bad oil doesnt come in cans anymore. Every gas station had a few emptys in the trash with an ounce or so still in it. Now if theres any left in the plastic jug the motorist screws the cap back on and takes it with him.
 

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Since My little bottle with sponge tip always leaked when I took it on the bike, I just took a can of spray, which was also stored in a gallon storage bag with the straw. Which means it's the only time I used a spray. I figured a spray can would last me a lifetime of long trips.
 

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Need a bigger motor maybe? In all seriousness, the gunk you put on chain attracts dirt. So yes, if you spray or rub stuff on it and wipe the grime off then the chain mover easier.
One thing about the Tutoro system is that it cleans the chain. If mine looks dusty or dirty after a spell in the rain or a dirt road, I turn it up for a while and the combination of oil and centrifugal force gets it pretty clean. (Not the wheel though)
 
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Another vote for the tutoro. I dont remember how far i can go because i just top off all the time, but probably a couple thousand miles on a full reservoir and a full travel bottle it comes with. The travel bottle is probably a shot and a half or two. Should be good for most trips. And yes keeps the chain clean.

outside of that, I would check out cvs or Walgreens for travel soap/lotion bottles. They seal pretty well. No matter what, try to find a spot that will keep it upright and in a ziploc, or two. And as others have said, there are many brands of half size aerosols.
 

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Another vote for the tutoro. I dont remember how far i can go because i just top off all the time, but probably a couple thousand miles on a full reservoir and a full travel bottle it comes with. The travel bottle is probably a shot and a half or two. Should be good for most trips. And yes keeps the chain clean.

outside of that, I would check out cvs or Walgreens for travel soap/lotion bottles. They seal pretty well. No matter what, try to find a spot that will keep it upright and in a ziploc, or two. And as others have said, there are many brands of half size aerosols.
Do you know if it's possible to use regular motor oil in the Tutoro?

Back in the day before chain lube proper even existed, I couldn't have bacon, so I'd pack a metal cigar tube with John Morrell Snocap lard (the best). And then attach the tube to the exhaust pipe with an old hose clamp. After a few miles, the lard had liquified a bit, and I'd pour it on the warmed up chain and work it in with a boar's hair brush.

The lard can be used as a salve for burns or you can drink it in a pinch for a calorie boost. Excellent fire starter too. And you can fashion a rudimentary candle from the cigar tube by braiding a few of the boar bristles into a wick.
Curious though, where did you get acetylene for your headlight while on the road? Or were you still on kerosene at that point?
 

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I had a Tutoro on my last Strom and have a Scottoiler on my current one. The brand really doesn't matter, only keeping that lubricant film on the chain matters.
 

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no idea, ive only used the tutoro oil. I think ive seen some people on here try others but i cant speak to that or how it turned out.
Thanks, looks like Tutoro themselves do have some guidance, so seems it's probably safe for the unit but may not be as effective:

"As a guide we suggest that if you use a multigrade motor oil, whether its that old can you've had knocking around in the garage for years or an impulse purchase of the latest "Special Offer" Supermarket lube, make sure its at least 20w rated. Please bear in mind an engine oil does not have the same additives as our TUTORO chain oil. "
 

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A while back, based on commentary here I bought a gallon of Mobil Vactra No 2 on sale. A gallon will last me a loooong time. My Turoro oil is about done, so I expect this spring I'll make the switch.

That said, I suspect the specific oil doesn't matter much as long as the viscosity is in the right ballpark for weather conditions. I vaguely recall seeing someone here (maybe V-Tom) using snowplow hydraulic oil for dead-of-winter riding.
 

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A while back, based on commentary here I bought a gallon of Mobil Vactra No 2 on sale. A gallon will last me a loooong time. My Turoro oil is about done, so I expect this spring I'll make the switch.

That said, I suspect the specific oil doesn't matter much as long as the viscosity is in the right ballpark for weather conditions. I vaguely recall seeing someone here (maybe V-Tom) using snowplow hydraulic oil for dead-of-winter riding.
Shell makes an industrial oil called Tonna 68. Close crossover to Vactra. I have used both in 55gal quantities. The Tonna is a little more sticky like bar oil. 40wt motor oil is rough equivalent to 80-90 without having chlorinated additives. 30wt non-detergent motor oil too Bar oil for chain saws is about $12 a gal. Thats cheap these days.


Okay. Having made a mess, start a thread on how to clean it up. C'm on you spoke lovers:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
As the OP, thanks for all the good info. Lots of great ideas, suggestions and methods. One question I have always had about chain oilers is about the amount of oil being slung all over. It sounds like this doesn't happen, but I am hard-pressed to see why it would not.
 

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As the OP, thanks for all the good info. Lots of great ideas, suggestions and methods. One question I have always had about chain oilers is about the amount of oil being slung all over. It sounds like this doesn't happen, but I am hard-pressed to see why it would not.
It's gonna fling whether manually applied or automatically. I find I have less mess with the oiler, maybe because when it's evenly and constantly applied, you need less of it. It does need to be properly adjusted.
 

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I know I'm late to the party here - but if you are planning a long trip and can't work out where to carry a can of chain lube you might have bigger problems to worry about. I have a small size aerosol can that fits next to the tool kit under the seat on my Gen 2 1000. It's actually a spare because I have another can in the garage which I use after I refill the tank.
 

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Do you know if it's possible to use regular motor oil in the Tutoro?



Curious though, where did you get acetylene for your headlight while on the road? Or were you still on kerosene at that point?
They don't suggest you use motor oil and especially not tranny fluid. The best alternative according to Tutoro is 30 weight hydraulic oil from what I remember.
 
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