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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
One of the most common questions I am getting asked is how to choose a boot. Riding boots to be clear don't fit the same as your other footwear. The reason is the riding position. The human body was not designed to be sitting or have the feet compressed like springs for long periods of time. Boots to fit well need to be form fitting to your foot with enough room for the toes to move in the footbed , and enough for the socks to breathe.

If the boot is too tight , numbness, pain and discomfort can ensue. The boot if too loose can have the opposite problem and the slipping can lead to blisters. Swelling of the feet is not uncommon due to fluid retention. Thinking of the socks and boot as a system can help.

The way I wear my boots is coat my feet with a foot powder or talcum first. I then put a compression nylon sock on my foot followed by my boot sock. The reason is the feet are much like the torso, and layers work. However the feet are far from the Heart and they can get cold easily. I recommend having different socks for the Summer and the Winter based on the degree of insulation needed.

Riding with cold wet feet is not fun or hot and sweaty in the summer. Make sure on a multi day trip to change your socks daily and keep the socks clean.

Fitting of boots follows some basic rules. I recommend 1/2 size larger to allow for room for the socks and your feet to be flat, no balled up toes. A small amount of heel lift is OK , as long as your feet do not slide. The next area to address are the arch and the instep. Riders with high arches find boots like the Classic or the Side Zipper http://cruiserworks.com/Products/Footwear/CruiserWorks-Men-s-Side-Zip-Boots.aspx. We have easier than the Tour. The Tour style pull own boot is best for narrow to medium widths and normal height arches. If your feet are flat the boot can be adjusted with modifications of the footbed. We recommend Resole America as they have over 30 years of experience with boots and do a great job helping you get a great fit.

Riding boots when you first get them can be very tight. Do not worry the leather will stretch , like a baseball mitt or saddle breaks in. If the leather is soft and floppy, pass on the boots. There are 2 grades in the industry of leather Dress and Work. Dress leather is fine for casual wear, but don't expect it to protect your feet. The tanning process and type of leather that makes a supple and soft boot is problematic in riding.

My own case study can help illustrate it. About 10 years ago I was riding into the sun at dusk. I went around a turn at about 35 and it had gravel across the road I missed due the glare. My rear tire slide out and I low sided, my foot was pinned under the bike. The boots I was wearing are very highly regarded riding specific boots. My foot did a full rotation in the boot and my boot ever came off and looked scuffed but wearable after, yet it had failed completely. I required 2 surgeries on my foot and now have limited flexibility due to a rod in place. lesson learned, protection before style. The soft leather and Velcro did not hold up in a crash and I wish I would have known then what I know now.




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Not trying to be facetious, but why not find a boot that fits rather than paying $325 for a low-cut boot with no ankle protection or resistance to torque-ing forces? Where is the protection in that boot? Aside from a thick hiking-boot style sole, those side-zip boots look like something Sears sells for winter.
 

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The boots I was wearing are very highly regarded riding specific boots.
+1, live and learn. Went from Tour Master Solution (street boots) to Alpinestars Scouts (Adven/Moto) after fracturing an ankle one year. Tour Master was a decent boot, waterproof with ankle protection. Sure it stopped the spill from being worse but still wound up with the fracture. Have had graval drops with the Scouts with no injury. Running Pelican sidecases on the Strom which negates being pinned under the bike. It's a jungle out there. :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Not trying to be facetious, but why not find a boot that fits rather than paying $325 for a low-cut boot with no ankle protection or resistance to torque-ing forces? Where is the protection in that boot? Aside from a thick hiking-boot style sole, those side-zip boots look like something Sears sells for winter.
1. The boots were the highest rated street boot I could find made in Italy and they fit properly
2. There is a lot of technology hidden. The boots are the same leather used in fire boots. The Toe and heel cups are from the Canadian Military Field boot used by NATO. The boots are reinforced with Kevlar. The footbed is made to resist torsion effects and not collapse like my street boots had. This technology came from the ski industry

Remember looks will fool you. I like simplicity in design, clean lines and understated looks.
Our boots are the only ones available that can be resoled with the same sole and footbed used in manufacturing for around $60.00. USD. Resoling with others is a waste , boots will always leak as a boot is designed from the footbed up

We have over a decade of business and a large customer base including many LEO and riders that put on years of hard use. We didn't try to modify a hiking boot, use dress leather or build them for a specific look. We built the boot to be the best touring boot available and I think the reviews and get validate it.



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