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Discussion Starter #1
I'm doing the popular 16T sprocket upgrade and discovered the original is kinda hooked. I have 20,000Km on the bike (I rode 11,000 of them) and I wonder if I should be replacing the chain/rear sprocket while I'm at it?











Also, does this clutch screw assembly require any lube? It was filthy and full of grit.




Thanks for any help
 

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Just my opinion, but the chain and rear sprocket look ok. There doesn't appear to be the same wear on the rear sprocket as the front. I'd check the chain link spread and if its ok, then just change the front sprocket.

By the way, you won't regret changing the sprocket either way. When I changed mine, I boosted my average mpg from 47 to 50, with only a very minimal acceleration loss. You will need to relearn your tach to speedo mental gearing math.
 

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Does the chain have any rust trails from the rollers? Can you pull the chain off the rear sprocket more than 1/2 the height of the teeth?

Anymore I replace the chain/sprockets as a set. In your case if the chain passed inspection you'd probably be ok with just changing the engine sprocket.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Replace the chain and both sprockets. There is visible sprocket wear and the chain is kinked. The rear sprocket may be okay but taking a chance with such an inexpensive part is usually false economy. The clutch pushrod should be greased. A cleaner chain lube would be a good idea as would checking the area more often.
 

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Your chain and Sprockets are JUNK REPLACE THEM.
 

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+1 on what Mortaine said. Your chain is stretched otherwise your sprocket wouldn't show the directional wear that it does. Regardless what anyone says always replace both your chain and sprockets. If you don't you will just wear out your new chain faster.
 

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It has been a long time since I've had a chain driven bike but the old rule of thumb was when changing a sprocket change both and the chain. I've seen sprockets a lot worse off than yours and you could probably get quite a few more miles on it but when you do change, do the whole thing.
 

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As Greywolf and some others have said, it looks bad enough to change. Sprocket definitely looks hooked and should be changed. Change the chain at the same time too.
On the clutch spring, mine was dirty and grity like your as well, I cleaned it up with WD40 to get rid of all the grime and then went to Dupont Teflon spary lube, It has kept it farily clean since.
 

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Off Wee-ing in the woods
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I guess I'll speak out agains everyone's advise. I just changed my cs sproket a month ago. It was worn abit more than your's in 16000 miles. I don't think the chain was on it's way out yet so I just replaced the sprocket alone.

I do agree that you shouldn't put a new chain on old sprockets, but if you can spen less than $20 and get another 5000 miles out of a chain why not.

My chain isn't overly noisey. It's acutally much more quiet since the sporcket has fresh rubber on it. It's doesn't need adjustment often either. I plan on replacing my chain kit at 20,000 miles which will be in a month or so now that spring is here.
 

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once you can SEE damage on a sprocket, the chain is toast. replace the whole thing. my two cents.

i normally change out the driveline every 12k miles or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
once you can SEE damage on a sprocket, the chain is toast. replace the whole thing. my two cents.

i normally change out the driveline every 12k miles or so.
I don't feel so bad changing it at 20K km knowing you are at approx the same mileage. I think I should get a bit more km out of them, so better chain maintenance from now on.

Bought the chain this morning but the rear sprocket was not in stock till hopefully Friday. The weather here is looking better by the weekend and I wanna ride!!

I'm doing the Alaska thing in July so need everything ship shape!
 

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Off Wee-ing in the woods
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once you can SEE damage on a sprocket, the chain is toast. replace the whole thing. my two cents.

i normally change out the driveline every 12k miles or so.
I don't what to come across as a smart ass, but why is the chain automatically toast if a sprocket shows wear (I don't consider normal wear damage) There are only 15/16 teeth on a cs sprocket so it is going to wear much faster than a 43tooth sprocket or a 118 link chain. The math would say it should wear at least 3 times faster than everything else.

I just checked my stock chain with 16200miles against the stock chain on my wifes with 2000 miles on it. Yes it does show some wear, but it still measures within spec, but distance between rollers on the inside is .12mm greater on the higher mileage chain.
 

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I don't what to come across as a smart ass, but why is the chain automatically toast if a sprocket shows wear (I don't consider normal wear damage) There are only 15/16 teeth on a cs sprocket so it is going to wear much faster than a 43tooth sprocket or a 118 link chain. The math would say it should wear at least 3 times faster than everything else.

I just checked my stock chain with 16200miles against the stock chain on my wifes with 2000 miles on it. Yes it does show some wear, but it still measures within spec, but distance between rollers on the inside is .12mm greater on the higher mileage chain.
by all means, follow your bliss. opinions were asked and mine was given. :cool:

my last chain-driven bike was a 1200 bandit, so it could be the big bandit goes through chains a bit quicker than a wee. i've never had to change chains on my vee yet, owing to its low mileage.
 

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by all means, follow your bliss. opinions were asked and mine was given. :cool:

my last chain-driven bike was a 1200 bandit, so it could be the big bandit goes through chains a bit quicker than a wee. i've never had to change chains on my vee yet, owing to its low mileage.
Thanks I hope you didn't take my question the wrong way. I'm alway open to other people's reasoning cause sometimes it's better than mine. :D
 

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brianjonesphoto

I am with you on this one. My CS was more hooked than this one at around 10,000 and yes I should have replaced it sooner.
I found the chain & rear sprocket in good condition & well within the service limits, so I simply put a new CS sprocket on.
I'll replace the whole kit when the chain is in fact out of spec or the rear sprocket starts showing wear.

No bad noises and like you, I have noticed a much quieter drive line.
And I used a super inexpensive JT CS sprocket without the rubber on it.

I believe the service manual only calls out replacement of the whole kit if either the chain or the rear sprocket is out of spec, not the CS/Engine sprocket.

All my chain drive bikes have hooked the CS fairly quickly, and most have had the rear & chain still in limits.
 
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