[gryphon51]

Replaced the sprockets and tires and I was so proud of myself. I road around the subdivision, but I had this, "I forgot something " that wouldn't leave my head.

Our driveway is steep, and I pull into it and decide to stop and roll back down and check the mail. I tap the back brake and nothing happens, so I get on it harder and harder. Eventually, it stops responding.

I get off the bike, slam my helmet down (scratching a brand new shield), and find this piece of stupidity. It was ALL THE WAY AROUND and under, but it rolled back forward ...some

The bike is too hot to work on, at the moment. :headbang::headbang::headbang:

I have learned the hard way you MUST remove the caliper from that part while putting the rear assembly back together..... the alternative is risking a mess like this.... I am amazed it is not leaking everywhere....

 

[notacop]

Wow, man, sorry about your helmet and the brakes mess. I haven't had mine apart yet but I expect I'll be talking to God when I do. I had a new 2003 ZR7S Kawi and after the ease of beemer wheels I was miffed at the bother of dealing with the chain and brake assys when changing tires. I got used to it but still had conversations with the Almighty when reassembling .

 

[Phinhead]

Hell, I even did my first chain break and rivet, with this one. It would have been nice to have a Clymer manual to say, "Hey IDIOT...slide the damn brakes back into the slot so it doesn't follow the laws of physics around the rim!!!!":furious:

 

[Phinhead]

If someone would post a shot of how those brake lines are supposed to lie under there, it would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

 

[SCraig]

If someone would post a shot of how those brake lines are supposed to lie under there, it would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

It goes through that white clip on top of the swingarm. Other than that just let it curve naturally.

 

[greywolf]

It's not the lines but the caliper carrier connection to the swingarm. Slot A has to be slid onto tab B when the rear is re-assembled. Most people who do it wrong just hear a click when the apply the brakes as the wheel is rotating forward and the caliper carrier hits the tab. Do it backward though and there is more room to rotate. The line just goes through the carrier on top of the swingarm.

 

[Phinhead]

It's not the lines but the caliper carrier connection to the swingarm. Slot A has to be slid onto tab B when the rear is re-assembled. Most people who do it wrong just hear a click when the apply the brakes as the wheel is rotating forward and the caliper carrier hits the tab. Do it backward though and there is more room to rotate. The line just goes through the carrier on top of the swingarm.

I am with you on that, and that is why I said something to the effect of it had to back into the slot so it just didn't follow the laws of physics around the rim. What I am asking is, how do the brake lines correctly align under the bike? It looks like problem one, highlighted, is that I have pulled the line to the left side of the bike, and it is supposed to be going forward. Do you agree, Master Wolf?

Thanks,

 

[greywolf]

 

[Phinhead]

Thank you for your time,

Steve Hudson

 

[greywolf]

I have personal experience putting the slot above the tab instead of on it. Luckily, I was a clacker. I'm happy to be of assistance.

 

[Phinhead]

Everything went back together, but that design is so aggravating without a center stand. I can tell it is going to be a must have.

I did not bend the the metal tubing coming off the master cylinder back towards the front of the bike because it would have taken a lot to do so. I took the MC guard off and rotated the tubing as far forward as I could. Luckily, nothing is leaking but it still points left instead of forward. I didn't see anything that it could foul.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[HolyStromboli]

Everything went back together, but that design is so aggravating without a center stand. I can tell it is going to be a must have.

Just get one and be done with it. I learned the hard way when removing both wheels (although at separate times) to have new tires put on. I had to put the rear swingarm on jack stands and the front end was suspended with heavy duty straps from the I-beam in the garage. All do-able, yes, but much more work than necessary. Having a center stand would have made it significantly less time consuming and aggravating. I've had my SW Motech centerstand in the box for a month now and hope to have it installed by next weekend.

 

[HSL]

I have learned the hard way you MUST remove the caliper from that part while putting the rear assembly back together.....

Not sure I get that part -- I have never ever removed the caliper, except for the one time where I wanted to clean and lube the rear brake thoroughly. I let the caliper carrier usually sit on the said tab after pulling the axle and wheel.

I did not bend the the metal tubing coming off the master cylinder back towards the front of the bike because it would have taken a lot to do so. I took the MC guard off and rotated the tubing as far forward as I could. Luckily, nothing is leaking but it still points left instead of forward. I didn't see anything that it could foul.

I know this is a bummer but I guess everyone who ever worked on a bike knows these :headbang: moments.

Have you considered just putting in a new break hose? You can get the whole thing for about $70 online, probably cheaper as aftermarket part, and you'd be sure that nothing was compromised.

 

[Phinhead]

I changed both tires, both sprockets, and the chain without it, but it was a pain. I am putting it on the priority list, but I think it is going to fall behind crash bars.

 

[larolco]

If you didn't rupture anything, you can probably just put everything back in place and cross your fingers and stomp on the pedal a few times to reassure yourself.

It's just a rear brake and its failure would not be a life and death issue. If it were the front brakes (not like the design of the fronts would allow this sort of issue) things would be a little more critical.

It shouldn't cost you anything.

 

[Dorzok]

Replaced the sprockets and tires and I was so proud of myself. I road around the subdivision, but I had this, "I forgot something " that wouldn't leave my head.

Our driveway is steep, and I pull into it and decide to stop and roll back down and check the mail. I tap the back brake and nothing happens, so I get on it harder and harder. Eventually, it stops responding.

I get off the bike, slam my helmet down (scratching a brand new shield), and find this piece of stupidity. It was ALL THE WAY AROUND and under, but it rolled back forward ...some

The bike is too hot to work on, at the moment. :headbang::headbang::headbang:

safe to say you picked an appropriate screen name.
:green_lol:

 

[jokermtb]

Nuthin' is techically broken, but, good grief, I think we can all learn a little something from this!

first beer is on me!

 

[HSL]

Darwin reigns ;-)

It's just a rear brake and its failure would not be a life and death issue.

Can't help saying this -- but any part of the braking system can be a life or death issue.

A couple of month ago, I had a deer dashing across an open field and straight into my line of travel. I saw it too late, braked hard, and the deer passed a couple of feet in front of me.

So the rear brake may just give you a few feet to your stopping distance, but in this case it made the difference between just taking a slide with the bike, or being run over at full speed by a deer. I'm pretty sure that difference is life or death.

Having said this, it's a free country. It's just that personally, I wouldn't want my last thought to be: "Damn, why didn't I shell out those stupid 70 bucks for a new brake line..."

 

[Phinhead]

If the line shows any instance of leaking, I will replace it. I left it pressed, all night, and I found nothing on my garage or anywhere else. I just shucked out $250 on a valve check, so I am not afraid to spend on it.