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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

My daily commute on my 650 takes me on unlit windy roads (Woodhead Pass, Derbyshire) and one problem I had through the Winter was that my Strom full beam was often bounced right back at me from the highly reflective yellow chevron boards on the roadside. My solution was to fit a pair of spotlights lower down to illuminate the road beneath the boards without causing the glare.
Well, it was an idea but didn't really work. Hey ho.

However, the lamps are rather nice and this Spring I've decided to use them as driving lamps for a bit of extra visibility.

The lamps are lovely little resin units from Highway Hawk and are very cheap - I think I paid about £50 for a pair including bulbs.

However, the bulbs fitted are 12v 50W halogens and I found with my voltmeter really hammer the battery/alternator, draining the system quite badly. Therefore, I've not been using the lamps much at all.
Yesterday, though, my order of ten cheapy 20W halogens arrived from Ebay and they are perfect - giving a wonderfully sharp light with no drain on the power.

The lights arrive 'upside down' for mounting on the Strom:

That lip at the bottom would ideally be at the top when suspended under the Strom fairing.
Taking the lamp apart shows it to be a really simple unit - a cheap halogen press fits into the contact block and at the front of the lamp the little glass 'lens' is simply held in place by the bulb. Not particularly waterproof but they work fine.

I took the lens cowling and filed a chunk of it away opposite the original cutout (which accommodates a lug on the main moulding). This allowed me to mount the cowling ring upside down and hopefully tidy up the looks and prevent a little water ingress.

Under the nose of the bike, about 110mm back from the mesh grills (on the 650 at least) there are two pre-drilled holes of about 10mm diameter. These holes are great for aligning the lamps - just draw or score a line between the centres of the two holes and you have a baseline for fitting the lamps.
Drill two holes for each lamp and attach with nut and bolt. You could run the cables through the 10mm holes with grommets - but I didn't.

I then soldered Dean's gold plated connectors onto the lamps and made a mini loom running them in parallel back to my Blue Sea fusebox via a switch.

My switch - it's rated at 10A at 240V (2400W power dissipation) so I figured I can switch my 40W load without a relay. Tiny toggle switch with rubber waterproofing cap.

Some more photos and the all-important illuminated shot.

Yes the nuts n bolts and little self tapping screws that come with the lamps do rust almost immediately but heck, not a massive job to replace them eh?

7,437 Posts
Good looking setup. Does everything come off OK when you need to remove the plastic for engine maintenance? Did you need backup material to strengthen the plastic?

My switch - it's rated at 10A at 240V (2400W power dissipation) so I figured I can switch my 40W load without a relay.
Switches see amps, not watts. Two 20 watt bulbs (40 W) ÷ 12 volts = 3.3 amps, so you're well covered.
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