Hello, I’ve tried searching for the headlight wiring diagram and also searched for mention of the color of the cable in the forums but haven’t found anything. Does anyone know
the color of the hot wire that powers the high beam?
I want to connect a pair of spotlights (relay) to the high beam instead of a switch on the handle bar which would be too far off of the grip having the heated grips switch right there, and also I just prefer not to take my attention off of the road for flipping the switch various times.
Thanks
On my 2012 DL650, the yellow wire is the high beams. I spliced in a relay (which coincidently was a yellow wire) for my dash cam and it only turned on when my high beams were activated. Pretty funny once I figured it out, but very frustrating at the time when the dash cam would not power up. 😝
On my 2012 DL650, the yellow wire is the high beams. I spliced in a relay (which coincidently was a yellow wire) for my dash cam and it only turned on when my high beams were activated. Pretty funny once I figured it out, but very frustrating at the time when the dash cam would not power up. 😝
Based on a post I found here on the forum, I posi-tapped the yellow high beam wire below the main fuse panel under the seat. This tap / wire runs a short distance to a relay, also under the seat, which routes power from my PC8 fuse panel via dedicated wiring to my high beam aux / spot lights up front.
Based on a post I found here on the forum, I posi-tapped the yellow high beam wire below the main fuse panel under the seat. This tap / wire runs a short distance to a relay, also under the seat, which routes power from my PC8 fuse panel via dedicated wiring to my high beam aux / spot lights up front.
Wow ok, thats interesting. That should be easier to get to than trying to pull the front apart. I think having the spots with the high beam is so much easier using the stock switch, seems like a no brainer. Thanks!
FWIW, I didn't have to do anything but reach in to install the positap. It was a little fiddly to get the right reach / angle, but easy.
That tap / relay turns on the big-ass aux high beams / spots with the high beam (see below), while the lower yellow conspicuity lights are on with the low beam and off with high beam). I think they're amazing. I've been meaning to take & post forward-looking pics of stock high-beam vs. stock high-beam + aux / spots. Maybe one of these days...
FWIW, I didn't have to do anything but reach in to install the positap. It was a little fiddly to get the right reach / angle, but easy.
That tap / relay turns on the big-ass aux high beams / spots with the high beam (see below), while the lower yellow conspicuity lights are on with the low beam and off with high beam). I think they're amazing. I've been meaning to take & post forward-looking pics of stock high-beam vs. stock high-beam + aux / spots. Maybe one of these days...
Ok super cool, that will be the same set up for me as I have some nice yellow daylight LED, really helps. Those are crazy big aux lights, I guess I don’t have to worry if mine are too big. 😅
I do have some 3” Aurora LED on my other bike, they’re insane, in fact the owner of the company asked to post my photo after I sent him one, lights up the jungle.
The high beam bike LED, like most, does just about nothing.
So doing the math on amp draw, if my two auxiliary lights plus the main lights are all LED now and draw less than the original halogen, is there any reason I couldn’t just go straight off the wire vs using a relay?
So doing the math on amp draw, if my two auxiliary lights plus the main lights are all LED now and draw less than the original halogen, is there any reason I couldn’t just go straight off the wire vs using a relay?
You can do what you like but its always a better idea to route accessories through a relay. In fact Suzuki cheaped out and ran the lights powered off the switch and there have been some meltdowns. There are aftermarket kits that allows you to install relays between the switch and headlight to protect the wiring from going Chernobyl.
Pay me now or pay me later either way you'll still pay. But paying $5 for relay now and a small investment in time is way cheaper than paying later if there is a problem.
You can do what you like but its always a better idea to route accessories through a relay. In fact Suzuki cheaped out and ran the lights powered off the switch and there have been some meltdowns. There are aftermarket kits that allows you to install relays between the switch and headlight to protect the wiring from going Chernobyl.
Pay me now or pay me later either way you'll still pay. But paying $5 for relay now and a small investment in time is way cheaper than paying later if there is a problem.
Hmm, interesting, I wasn't aware they cheaped out like that and used no relay. All accessories are wired in through a relay (grips, DRL, charger), I'll have to figure out a way to wire these in with one too. Or maybe power them off the relay under the seat off the yellow wire that thirdofthree mentioned above.
thanks
FWIW, I didn't have to do anything but reach in to install the positap. It was a little fiddly to get the right reach / angle, but easy.
That tap / relay turns on the big-ass aux high beams / spots with the high beam (see below), while the lower yellow conspicuity lights are on with the low beam and off with high beam). I think they're amazing. I've been meaning to take & post forward-looking pics of stock high-beam vs. stock high-beam + aux / spots. Maybe one of these days...
Ok, I think I'm set with supplies, I ordered the ATech light support, I have 2 spots that are coming off another bike, posi-tap/connnectors/shrink wrap etc and bought a wire harness. It looks like I have the positive/negative on one end and 3 wires coming off a relay that go to a switch that I don't need. I assume I’ll be snipping wires and I am OK with that, but do you know where those three wires would go? I think one might be low voltage to power the tiny led on the switch, one must go to the yellow, the other is a ground maybe? Thanks, and if you don’t know no biggie.
Hi, basically I bought a wire harness specifically for auxiliary lights, they all seem to have switches but I definitely prefer the high beam switch 100x over taking my hand off the grip to thumb a switch every time a car appears, so I'd like to use the high beam wire which apparently is yellow and accessible under the seat.
I'm just guessing but maybe that "positive in" should be the high beam trigger? I could hide the switch somewhere and leave it on and just use the trigger wire. Thanks.
there is a company with a jumper plug that goes in between the female and male plugs heading into the high beam that has an auxiliary jumper lead off the high beam trigger wire. that way you don;t have to splice or positap any wires
there is a company with a jumper plug that goes in between the female and male plugs heading into the high beam that has an auxiliary jumper lead off the high beam trigger wire. that way you don;t have to splice or positap any wires
I posted a variety of aux light wiring diagrams previously, and have added one for your scenario as I understand it and as Rolex noted (i.e. skipping the manual switch). See below. In your case, you would connect:
blue wire (yellow in diagram) to high beam
red / black (green in diagram) with ring terminals to battery
red / black (green in diagram) spade connectors to your lights
You shouldn't have to worry about all the connections to the relay, they should all be sorted out for you.
I posted a variety of aux light wiring diagrams previously, and have added one for your scenario as I understand it and as Rolex noted (i.e. skipping the manual switch). See below. In your case, you would connect:
blue wire (yellow in diagram) to high beam
red / black (green in diagram) with ring terminals to battery
red / black (green in diagram) spade connectors to your lights
You shouldn't have to worry about all the connections to the relay, they should all be sorted out for you.
Oh ok, that's the opposite of what I guessed but that’s exactly why I wanted to ask. Thanks that makes it clear now. I guess the switch and 2 wires I could just snip and tape to remove extra bulk right?
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