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Hesitation and back firing

2069 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  ChargingTortoise
When cruising around at low speeds around town I've noticed a lot of hesitation and stalling when between 3k and 4k rpm. When it stalls it makes a clicking sound in the front. I think its the front right side. When cruising around at about 4kish rpm at low speed it makes a sputtering sound near the exhaust. Anyone know what it could be? I've checked vacuum hoses, throttle body boots, etc. I have noticed that shortly after the clicking and stalling the voltage drops significantly and while riding the voltage fluctuates quite a bit. Any input would be appreciated.
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Has the bike always done this, or started doing this later?
Sounds like a fueling problem, as usual with these bikes. I don't know how the voltage drops would relate to that though.
It used to. I bought the bike with around 43000 miles on it. The tank was rusty so I cleaned it, sealed it, did external bypass, changed fuel pump to QFS pump.
Could it perhaps be the other way 'round, that a drop in voltage temporarily starves the bike of electricity, leading to interrupted fuel flow and missed sparks? The first Gen DL1000 is well known for having electric problems, like migrated magnets, burned stators, burned connectors, burned switches in the handlebar clusters and so forth.

Reason I'm asking is that the rotor is connected to the crankshaft so as long as the crankshaft keeps turning, the charging system should be producing electricity. At 3000 to 4000 RPM that voltage should be well above 13.2V or so. If during the hesitation the rear wheel doesn't lock up altogether I cannot explain the drop in voltage other than through a loose connection.

You are using an independent voltmeter, are you? Not the voltage meter on the dash (if any), 'cause that can be impacted by ECU issues.

The clicking sound could be a relay. Do you have the Eastern Beaver relay kit for your headlights, or another relay for the headlights installed? Other possibilities could be the turn signal or fuel pump relay, and the starter relay on the starter itself. An interrupted fuel pump relay could of course explain the hesitation. I desperately hope the clicking is not from the starter relay - but that would probably sound way different.
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Could it perhaps be the other way 'round, that a drop in voltage temporarily starves the bike of electricity, leading to interrupted fuel flow and missed sparks? The first Gen DL1000 is well known for having electric problems, like migrated magnets, burned stators, burned connectors, burned switches in the handlebar clusters and so forth.

Reason I'm asking is that the rotor is connected to the crankshaft so as long as the crankshaft keeps turning, the charging system should be producing electricity. At 3000 to 4000 RPM that voltage should be well above 13.2V or so. If during the hesitation the rear wheel doesn't lock up altogether I cannot explain the drop in voltage other than through a loose connection.

You are using an independent voltmeter, are you? Not the voltage meter on the dash (if any), 'cause that can be impacted by ECU issues.

The clicking sound could be a relay. Do you have the Eastern Beaver relay kit for your headlights, or another relay for the headlights installed? Other possibilities could be the turn signal or fuel pump relay, and the starter relay on the starter itself. An interrupted fuel pump relay could of course explain the hesitation. I desperately hope the clicking is not from the starter relay - but that would probably sound way different.
I have replaced stator, repositioned the magnets and jb welded them in. What common connections go bad? Do you think the new fuel pump could be sucking too much power?

I'm really kind of lost at this point.
the voltage drops significantly and while riding the voltage fluctuates quite a bit. Any input would be appreciated
Can you give us some numbers from your voltage meter? What is it dropping from and to when stalling? And when riding, what are the highs and lows in the fluctuation? Is the fluctuation constant, all the time you are riding?

I have replaced stator, repositioned the magnets and jb welded them in.
One piece that you didn't mention was the regulator/rectifier. Have you tested it? If you replaced the stator due to a burning or other electrical issues, the r/r may or may not have been impacted by the electrical problems. Do an r/r test. It's an easy test, and can be done with it still in place -- just disconnect the wires. Other threads on this forum discuss the test, or google it to get videos like this one:
at about the 1:49 minute spot
When it drops it drops from 14.2ish down to about 12-13. While riding normal it drops consistently from 14 all the way down to sometimes 11. I've noticed at idle it will sometimes be 11-13.

I've changed the rectifier twice. First replacement was making my V reading go all the way up to 17 volts. I changed that one to an OEM one from another Vstrom and it was doing good until it wasn't. I'll try to test out the R/R though.
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