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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there from the u.k. My V-Strom thou has developed a seriously bad throttle response when cold, (or maybe it just the cold weather).
It starts fine, idles fine, then slows to a very slow idle before stalling.
When I use the throttle to keep it running, climb aboard then set off, the throttle response is dreadful. Very hesitant to the point of being unridable, suddenly leaping off down the road like its been kicked up the arse.
Now then, this does clear after about 5-6 miles I reckon, but it is a nightmare on the slippy roads we've got here at the moment.
I've done no mods other than remove the secondary butterflies.
The bike is stored outside with a cover.
Any ideas???
 

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make sure the idle is set between 1100 and 1300.

P.
 

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Put the secondary plates back in, set the idle to 11/1200 warm, and check and set the cold idle adjustment screw on the rear throttle body.

DL 1k 25 C 1500/2100 15 C 1700/2300 -5 C 1800/2400 Get read & follow the adjustment procedure in the shop manual. Also check for loose TB connector boots. :confused:
 
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Also consider checking the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) to insure that it adjusted correctly. I'm guessing it's your idle speed. Are you idling at 900?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the rapid response guys.
Idle speed is around 11-1200.
This problem has only started in the last week or so,
the secondaries have been out 6 months or more.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Checked all of the above, no joy, so I took it down to the local Suzuki dealers. they said to refit the secondaries too. apparently they are ok to remove in warmer conditions as they serve as chokes ( not needed so much) but in cold weather they are needed to avoid this problem.
So I'm gonna fit them again to see if they're right.
I'll post the results.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Right then, all sorted. Putting the secondaries in made no difference. The problem was caused by a corroded front cylinder plug cap. This was suggested on another V-Strom site based here in the U.K. Wish West London Suzuki had spotted this when they charged me 35quid for nothing. I'll be asking the several thousand Vee tekies on the web in future.
 

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Right then, all sorted. Putting the secondaries in made no difference. The problem was caused by a corroded front cylinder plug cap. This was suggested on another V-Strom site based here in the U.K. Wish West London Suzuki had spotted this when they charged me 35quid for nothing. I'll be asking the several thousand Vee tekies on the web in future.
sir,

you posted a very generic question on a forum with some of the most intelegent people regarding the V-strom that i've ever seen. we, myself included, gave you the most common fixes to the general question you posted.

we can not see your bike, so diagnosing a corroded plug cap would be impossible. we also cannot diagnose tire wear, wheel alignment, or if your seat has a friggin rip in it. the dealer charging you 35 squids (??) without finding anything is NOT our problem. perhaps you should find a dealer/service dept that actually knows what they are doing, regarding the V-strom.

we have members from north america, south america, europe, africa, and asia. yet you got your answer came from a forum local to the UK. my suggestion would be to stay close to your local UK forum and not blame this forum because we didn't diagnose and fix a problem that was likely do to atmospheric conditions that are local to you.

thanks.

P.
 

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sir,

you posted a very generic question on a forum with some of the most intelegent people regarding the V-strom that i've ever seen. we, myself included, gave you the most common fixes to the general question you posted.

we can not see your bike, so diagnosing a corroded plug cap would be impossible. we also cannot diagnose tire wear, wheel alignment, or if your seat has a friggin rip in it. the dealer charging you 35 squids (??) without finding anything is NOT our problem. perhaps you should find a dealer/service dept that actually knows what they are doing, regarding the V-strom.

we have members from north america, south america, europe, africa, and asia. yet you got your answer came from a forum local to the UK. my suggestion would be to stay close to your local UK forum and not blame this forum because we didn't diagnose and fix a problem that was likely do to atmospheric conditions that are local to you.

thanks.

P.
Y'know, I didn't get any sort of message that the OP was being critical of anyone's help from this site. Why be so harsh in your response? If anything I'm grateful for him coming back and telling everyone what the problem was since the plug cap deal is usually a DL650 thing.

PS, you misspelled "intelligent".
 

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appologies

To: original poster
From: part time asshat

sir.

it has been pointed out that i may have mis-read your response in regards to your last posting listing the solution to your problem. in re-reading your post it appears that i had, indeed, mis-enterpreted your response. in my own defense....... well....... i have no defense. i was being an asshat.

my appologies to you, your community, your country, and your DL1000.


Paul.
 

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Puddle Duck

The reason for removing the SDTV's is like alot of other things in life.

"Because it's there"

Personaly the last thing I wanted was to be stranded when the valves failed to open. :(
 
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To: original poster
From: part time asshat

sir.

it has been pointed out that i may have mis-read your response in regards to your last posting listing the solution to your problem. in re-reading your post it appears that i had, indeed, mis-enterpreted your response. in my own defense....... well....... i have no defense. i was being an asshat.

my appologies to you, your community, your country, and your DL1000.


Paul.
LOL, Americans and British are seperated by a common language...
 
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... Why do people remove the "secondary butterflies"?

aren't those controlled by the computer and pretty much serve the same role as the vacuum slides in a constant velocity carb?
The secondaries are used to limit the top speed (as well as attempt to smooth out throttle response) of the Strom by closing and starving the bike of fuel at the highest rpm's. By removing the secondaries and upping the fuel in the PCIII maps at near redline rpm's you eliminate Suzuki's attempt to restrict top speeds on the Strom. People do this at their own risk, however, as the Stroms frame is subject to unstability at high speeds, and if you just pull the secondaries and don't fatten up the fuel mixture you risk engine damage from the extreme lean condition that occurs.
 

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Maybe if you are at Bonnieville and wide open for Several miles near redline then you might have a problem.

If the SDTV's fully open before you hit the limiting functions of the computer over-rev protection at WFO then what's the difference?

The SDTV's should be fully open providing full flow (slight restriction due to extra plate) of air just before the computer shuts things down.

I believe the SDTV's are mainly there to smooth the lower rpm fueling issues.

Just like a CV carb. Mainly for Noob Riders.

As the bike has little engine braking below 3000 rpm I find it is also useful to ride the bike above this zone and not troll around below 3K rpm.

If you troll around below 3k rpm you need SDTV's.

I have no cold weather running issues and my bike runs flawlessly.
Infact I'm going for a ride at this very moment ! :mod_lol:
 

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Hey, I got me a question... Why do people remove the "secondary butterflies"?

aren't those controlled by the computer and pretty much serve the same role as the vacuum slides in a constant velocity carb?
Daffy because very few have a clue as to what they are for and even less know and understand how they work and why they work that way. They think these things are costing me horse power so I gotta take them out.
You are correct in your assumption they control air speed like a CV carb. As MS said these bikes WILL wobble at high speeds Suzuki controls the speed with fuel reduction, timing reduction and the plates match the air flow to the fuel delivery. It is this handling trait and Suzuki's strong desire to not get a reputation for killing their customers that causes them to put limits on this bike. A question for all of you, how many of you think you can handle a top heavy and usually overloaded bike capable of 150 mph on a dirt road. I know more then a few of you think you can but very few of you have the skill or reflexes required to ride a ill handling bike at 150 mph.:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Er, yeah thanks!
I never meant to imply that you couldn't solve the problem, when another site did.
I'm very grateful for any help & guidance particulaly when my local Suzuki dealer were so crap. The rapid response from this site was great ( I think under an hour), & really gave me an idea of where to start looking.
Anyway Ppaz, no hard feelings I hope. No doubt I be on again sometime.
Thanks again for all your help.
Andy.

PS. Do you think I could get some Stromtrooper stickers sent over?
 

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Did you Armour All your seat?

If not keep your hands out of your pants and on the handle bars while driving anyways.;)

You can get a ticket for that you know.:p

It makes wheelies and stoppies difficult aswell.
 
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