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I was a very good boy this year and Santa brought me a Givi E52 with the brake light. Guess I wasn't good enough for the Givi windshield, but I digress. Believe me, I did use the search button regarding installation of this monster and I read ALL the postings from Reverend Biker, Martinh, etc... However, I still have some questions:

Regarding general installation of the mount.
1. How do I remove the rubber pad from the zuk luggage rack? Is this reusable or is it sacrificed? Everything I have read says "remove the rack". Do I simply pull the fasteners up through the mounting holes, or do they need lubed before pulled (that doesn't sound right), or do I just cut the stems and be done with it?
2. The hole for the wire connections on the base plate. Some say punch it out some say drill. Input from the install threads comes to 50/50. Any input to break the tie is appreciated. I'm leaning towards punching it out but I'm afraid it will crack the mount.
3. If I follow the Givi instructions for mounting the plate will I have enough room to easily remove the seat or should I shift the plate more rearward?

Regarding the wiring of the brake light.
1. I have studied the wiring harness and the bulb connections looking under the seat towards the brake light and I have come to the conclusion that this is all some kind of joke. I see the wires and I see the correct colors on the wires I need to tap into but there is no way I can touch any of these wires with the tip of my finger let alone manipulate them enough to splice in with the clamp connections or even if that were accomplished there is no freaking way I can get pliers in there to set the clamp. I can't see how anyone could even replace a brake light bulb.
2. Do I need to remove the plastic fender to access the wiring harness? That appears to be the only way to be able to actually get my hands on the wires to splice and clamp. I really hope that is not the answer.

Now I do realize that I don't have to connect the stop light wires to enjoy the 52 litres of cargo containment, but I would really like that big black blister to light-up when I hit the brakes. I thank all of you in advance for your wise counsel.
 

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I can't help with the electrical questions, I have the E35 Traffic II and no lights. But to remove the rubber pad from the Zuk rack I used a screwdriver and slowly worked the plugs into the hole from the back while gently pulling on them from the topside. Don't know if I'll ever reuse it but I have it just in case.
 

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I used a knife to score the plastic a bit and then gave it a whack with a hammer and large screwdriver. The plug came out relatively easily.

To wire it, I fished the harness going to the tail light out along the side of the underseat tool tray (clutch side) and tapped into it there. Not a lot of manipulation room for sure, but do-able. I did slice the plastic wire loom to get access to the individual wires and then taped it all up afterward, but I soldered the wiring rather than use those infernal crimp-wrap connectors.

I managed to break one of the rubber nipples holding the pad to the rack, but figure the whole pad will get glued if it ever gets re-installed.
 

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Just put a lttle lubricant on your fingers and massage the nipples well. That should make it easier to do what you want with her. Push it through the rack from underneath. Trust me, once you get em lubed, the rest will come second nature.:D
 

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Just put a lttle lubricant on your fingers and massage the nipples well. That should make it easier to do what you want with her. Push it through the rack from underneath. Trust me, once you get em lubed, the rest will come second nature.:D
Hmmm, not for mixed company, LOL. I was going to suggest the same dupont teflon multiuse spray or drops that I use on the chain. It works wonders for stuff like this and reinstalling if need be. It works well for grip installs and removals too.

JDP
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Remembered that I have a gallon of ultrasound jelly. This is great stuff on rubber. Nipples rubbed and pad was off in a jiffy. Now on to the wiring. Is it possible to splice into the wires up near the battery?
 

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Now on to the wiring. Is it possible to splice into the wires up near the battery?
Maybe. That one cable bundle (in black plastic sheath) along the clutch side of the underseat tool tray is the only wiring going to the rear of the bike.

I was able to get at it near the seat latch, and didn't follow it further.
 

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A bit of a sidetrack here, but does anyone know if it's possible to get Monokey cases keyed alike... Givi doesn't elaborate on their website, but I seem to remember hearing that you could get them keyed alike.
 
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A bit of a sidetrack here, but does anyone know if it's possible to get Monokey cases keyed alike... Givi doesn't elaborate on their website, but I seem to remember hearing that you could get them keyed alike.

Yeah, they (Givi) have a kit that allows you to key three monokey cases alike.
 

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What are your current key numbers? I got the matched lockset for my bags and I'll have the old ones kicking around after. Maybe I'll have a lock that matches your current ones.

A bit of a sidetrack here, but does anyone know if it's possible to get Monokey cases keyed alike... Givi doesn't elaborate on their website, but I seem to remember hearing that you could get them keyed alike.
 

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Regarding General Installation:

1) If you haven't already remove the rack first. It becomes a lot easier with the rack out of the bike. Apply some lube and push the nibs out. You shouldn't have to sacrifice the rubber mat.

2) Punch it out. If you get a socket (I forget the exact size but around 1/2 inch) put it against the plug and tap it the piece should come right out.

3) If you follow the instructions there will be plenty of room to remove the seat. It has been a while since I did it but if you put the brackets the right way there will be no problem If there is then you probably have put the brackets on the wrong way.

Regarding wiring:

1) If you take the bulbs out of the sockets it frees up enough wire to get the splice in. I was never able to get the bulb on the left side of the bike out but by getting the right side bulb out there was enough room to get in and get the job done. I have large hands and don't have a lot of fine motor skills and was able to do it.

2) I did not need to remove the fender, I doubt you will need to.

In addition, others have suggested putting an inline quick-disconnect which I did. This way if you ever want to undo the wiring you won't have problems. Here is a link to the type of connector:

http://www.thesourcecc.com/estore/SearchResults.aspx?language=en-CA&keywords=Quick+Disconnect+Power+Cable&pagenum=0

The Reverand and others drilled a hole behind the seat to run the wire through. This is nice and clean but if you don't like drilling in the plastic (I don't) you can run the wire on the right side of the bike under the turn signal (IIRC) There is plenty of room there for the wire to run and it is out of the way and not very visible.

...
Regarding general installation of the mount.
1. How do I remove the rubber pad from the zuk luggage rack? Is this reusable or is it sacrificed? Everything I have read says "remove the rack". Do I simply pull the fasteners up through the mounting holes, or do they need lubed before pulled (that doesn't sound right), or do I just cut the stems and be done with it?
2. The hole for the wire connections on the base plate. Some say punch it out some say drill. Input from the install threads comes to 50/50. Any input to break the tie is appreciated. I'm leaning towards punching it out but I'm afraid it will crack the mount.
3. If I follow the Givi instructions for mounting the plate will I have enough room to easily remove the seat or should I shift the plate more rearward?

Regarding the wiring of the brake light.

1. I have studied the wiring harness and the bulb connections looking under the seat towards the brake light and I have come to the conclusion that this is all some kind of joke. I see the wires and I see the correct colors on the wires I need to tap into but there is no way I can touch any of these wires with the tip of my finger let alone manipulate them enough to splice in with the clamp connections or even if that were accomplished there is no freaking way I can get pliers in there to set the clamp. I can't see how anyone could even replace a brake light bulb.
2. Do I need to remove the plastic fender to access the wiring harness? That appears to be the only way to be able to actually get my hands on the wires to splice and clamp. I really hope that is not the answer.

Now I do realize that I don't have to connect the stop light wires to enjoy the 52 litres of cargo containment, but I would really like that big black blister to light-up when I hit the brakes. I thank all of you in advance for your wise counsel.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Special thanks to BOBOSMITE for the heads-up on the posi-tap connectors. There was just no way that the Givi supplied clamp splices were going to work. I wasted the better part of two hours trying to crimp those stupid things. Then one clamp didn't even splice into the brake wire so no brake light action on the new top case. In 15 min I had the Posi-tap over the wire eaten up by the original clamps and the brake light works beautifully. Anybody trying to install a brake light system can really a save a lot of time using the Posi-tap connectors.
 

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I have a Givi E52 on my 650. I love it. Room for a twelve pack of beer, plus the added safety of the extra brakelights.

From memory:

The rubber pad - just yank like hell and it'll eventually come off without breaking any of the rubber 'nubby' thingies. No need for any lubricants.

The hole in the base plate - put the end of a big screwdriver on it and hit it hard with a hammer.

The mounting plate - place it by eye. Sit it up there before you fasten it and make sure it doesn't interfere with the seat removal.

The brakelight wiring - no need to remove any plastic tupperware. Take the seat off and from 'inside' reach back and undo one of the brake light bulb assemblies (the left one, if I remember correctly). This will allow enough slack in the wiring to get your hands up in there to connect the Givi wires.

- Tom
 
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