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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

I have a 2104 and purchased a GIVI skid plate and the directions are awful. From what I can tell, the directions want me to remove the lower main engine case bolt (the one that clamps the case together), put brackets at both openings, then run a new bolt through the case secured with a lock washer and nut.

Is this correct? (See pictures) I'm not too happy about removing the main case bolt that holds it together for fear of causing a leak. Anyone know for sure if I need to remove this bolt and replace it with the provided bolt? I wanted confirmation before removing that very important bolt.


When I ordered it is stated it was good for a 2014, but the top of the directions say 2011-2012. I figure the motors are the same so it should work on my 2014.

Thank you,

Dan
 

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Dan, I have a 2014 dl1000 with a Givi skid plate. The Givi brackets are installed using engine case bolts which also gave me a moment of pause, but those same bolts were used to secure the lower cowl that came on the bike. I haven't had any problems. Just re-snug the bolts the first few oil changes.
 

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Dan, yup, that’s the bolt you use. I have a ‘12 650 (call it the same bike as yours). I removed & reinstalled the bolt & had no problems with an oil leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Dan, I have a 2014 dl1000 with a Givi skid plate. The Givi brackets are installed using engine case bolts which also gave me a moment of pause, but those same bolts were used to secure the lower cowl that came on the bike. I haven't had any problems. Just re-snug the bolts the first few oil changes.
Fantastic. Appreciate the response and confirmation.
 

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Dan, yup, that’s the bolt you use. I have a ‘12 650 (call it the same bike as yours). I removed & reinstalled the bolt & had no problems with an oil leak.
Thanks for responding. I'll throw some blue loctite on the bolt to make sure it doesn't decide to go anywhere.
 

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@Slickrock
I put Givi crasherbars on my 2017 but the instructions/ spec sheet also identified them as being for other, older years. The fit was easy, so I suspect the date conflict should not worry you. But it is true, the 'instructions' can be worse than useless. Kind of like instructions which say,
'Remove engine. Fix problem. Reinstall engine'.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Got the skid plate installed last night. I can see it is going to be a pain in the backside every time I have to change the oil and remove the plate to do it. I resued that original bolt for the lower brackets because it was plenty long enough and the givi bolt was a smaller diameter. Oh well, I really like the coverage and it closes up the lower front of the bike. Always thought seeing the oil filter sticking out like that made the bike look like it was a cheap build. Now it's all sealed up and much better looking. The only issue was that it was tight against my Givi crash bars so I put a small layer of gasket felt between the two and secured it with zip ties so it wouldn't cause vibration. Worked like a charm. Thanks for all the help.
 

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Got the skid plate installed last night. I can see it is going to be a pain in the backside every time I have to change the oil and remove the plate to do it.
Yup!:furious: The top two nuts should have been spot-welded to the brackets like the bottom four. I used some JB Weld to secure the bottom washers to the skid plate. There is a slight interference fit factor which can cause the washers slip out of alignment during install, and on the right side especially, the brackets are hidden by the header pipe.
When my next oil change comes up, I'm going to have the nuts spot-welded to the upper bracket as well The JB Weld isn't holding up very well, nor are the bottom washers (steel to coated aluminum).
I'm also considering boring a hole big enough for a socket to fit through the skid plate to remove the through-bolt. This would allow the skid plate and lower brackets to be removed/reinstalled as a unit, after removing the upper mounting screws from the upper bracket.
 

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Yup!:furious: The top two nuts should have been spot-welded to the brackets like the bottom four. I used some JB Weld to secure the bottom washers to the skid plate. There is a slight interference fit factor which can cause the washers slip out of alignment during install, and on the right side especially, the brackets are hidden by the header pipe.
When my next oil change comes up, I'm going to have the nuts spot-welded to the upper bracket as well The JB Weld isn't holding up very well, nor are the bottom washers (steel to coated aluminum).
I'm also considering boring a hole big enough for a socket to fit through the skid plate to remove the through-bolt. This would allow the skid plate and lower brackets to be removed/reinstalled as a unit, after removing the upper mounting screws from the upper bracket.
I think your right. If I could get a socket in there and remove the bottom bracket by sliding out the bottom through bolt and another two holes to reach up and remove the top two bolts holding that bracket on would be the best for oil changes. Let me know how it goes with yours and if you drilled holes to remove the bracket as a whole.

It wasn't too bad aligning everything up but my 16-year-old son helped. So the next two years are covered for another set of hands. After that, off to Officer Training Academy and college/military. Maybe I can train my German Shepherd to hold a wrench for me.
 
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