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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

I'm on the cusp of installing an autoswitch to use with my garage door opener but before I start soldering I was wondering if anyone could give me some clarification? Has anyone installed one before? For a different device even?

I'm planning on using the passing light as suggested and the ignition switch for power to the autoswitch. I'm slightly confused by this request in the instructions:

"Locate a 12 volt wire that is gets power only when you turn on the ignition."

It should be one of 5 wires coming from the ignition switch:
B/R
R
O/R
O/G
B

The wire coming off of the passing switch that I'm supposed to tap I believe is solid yellow. I'm fairly convinced I have this correct but I'm not entirely sure where I plan to tap it is the right spot. I've been using the following as a helpful guide:

Basic V-Strom Wiring 101

Sadly, the one area he doesn't cover is the power leading to the ignition switch. I understand that those of you who haven't installed and autoswitch may not be able to help but I still appreciate any thoughts or suggestions regarding your experiences installing electronics on the V.

H
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Orange/Green is the best choice up front for an ignition on hot wire. There is one under the large rubber cover inside the fairing on the left. One may also be found in a connector behind the radiator meant for optional heated grips. Another feeds the rear brake light switch. Yellow is correct for the passing light switch. The Red/White wire in the fairing connector has power even with the ignition off. Don't use the Black/Red wire that goes to the ignition switch. While it is the always hot wire there, it is direct from the main fuse. If it shorts out, all power to the bike will be lost.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Greywolf, thank you so much this is excellent advice!

One may also be found in a connector behind the radiator meant for optional heated grips.
Is this 12v? Can I purchase the corresponding connector, crimp my wire into it, and just connect it that way as opposed to soldering? If this is true I will go on the search for that connector this morning.

Again, thank you for your help!

H
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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All the wiring mentioned is 12V. Only some leads to the electronic control module are lower. If you want to avoid some soldering, Eastern Beaver has connectors to fit the rear brake light switch to supply an ignition on hot wire or a connector for the heated grip switch.
Suzuki VStrom Electrics
Suzuki VStrom Electrics
 

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If you are talking about the Flash2Pass module, I have heard that the pass switch won't work on the VStrom for some reason or other. Not sure why, but I am interested to find out how this works for you as I am considering getting one myself. Please update if/when you get it working.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Redbean,

No this isn't the Flash2Pass module. I live in an apartment building and the F2P module requires adding a separate sensor to receive the transmitter's signal which the management would never go for. To get around this I purchased an Autoswitch the uses the actual garage door opener I already have but requires a bit more effort to install.

As Greywolf said, I could very easily just tap the Aux Heated Grip switch for the power the device requires but I've opted for patience and ordered the matching connector instead of just chopping the current connector off. In the end, the garage door opener will be housed under the set and activated by quickly tapping the pass switch on the handlebar working similar to F2P. I will post a photo of the final resting spot for the Autoswitch and the Opener shortly after I receive the connector in the mail (around 1 week I'm told).

Best,
H
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Greywolf,

Where do you recommend tapping the yellow PASSING LIGHT wire? If I'm reading the schematic correctly, the portion of the wire I'm looking to tap is the portion closest to the harness? Not the wire coming directly off of the Passing switch? If I'm on the right track then (in theory) I should be able to quickly activate the high-beams (using the actual high-beams switch) two times and it too would activate the autoswitch-not that I would ever want to but I'm just checking my work.

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I haven't removed the tank (yet) but I'd like to tap the wire as far back toward the seat as I can.

Thank you for your insight and patience.

H
 

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Ooo, thats a very cool idea, where can I get one of these autoswitch thingys to operate my garage door???
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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Where do you recommend tapping the yellow PASSING LIGHT wire? If I'm reading the schematic correctly, the portion of the wire I'm looking to tap is the portion closest to the harness? Not the wire coming directly off of the Passing switch? If I'm on the right track then (in theory) I should be able to quickly activate the high-beams (using the actual high-beams switch) two times and it too would activate the autoswitch-not that I would ever want to but I'm just checking my work.
Electrically, it doesn't matter where you tie into the yellow wire. The farthest rear point appears to be the wire connecting to the high beam fuse. The high beam switch itself could be used, but it would have to be toggled on-off-on-off because it is not sprung to a normal off like the flash to pass switch is.
 

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Glad I Installed Flash2Pass

I just installed flash2pass on my 2011 DL650ABS. I attached it to the right headlight. Works perfectly. Receiver took 15 minutes, transmitter took 30 minutes.

I almost didn't buy it because I read about all the problems getting it to work. Glad I went ahead and bought it.
 
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