Not too much heat. The bolt goes through greased bearings. You can replace the grease, but you don't want to overheat the bearings. Do not get the nut red, and don't even get it hot enough to melt the grease. Moderate heat will expand the nut enough to help get it off.
If the nut is just overtightened, not just glued on with red loctite, the threads or the bolt may have been stretched too far, or the threads could strip. It would be good to get new bolts and nuts on order if there is any reason except loctite.
As long as we are on the subject, my Baker lowering links for my 1000 came in today and I have a question about getting the bolts out. Is the top bolt going to clear the exhaust junction pipe on the left side? It sure looks close. I know some have asked about putting the bolts in from the right side to make it easier if there is a next time, but I have not seen an answer to that question (I probably missed it). Any advice?
I went through this drill while putting stock links back on my DL1000 - top bolt didn't want to come out until I moved the back wheel a bit until the bolt would clear the left-side exhaust.
When I was putting the stock links back the top bolt didn't want to clear the exhaust, and the bike wasn't exactly rock-solid on the jack. So rather than risk a tip-over while pushing and pulling on the rear wheel I just put the bolts in from the right side - can't see any reason why this would be a problem, but figured I would ask - 'specially since it seems like this would make more sense for ease of assembly but for some reason(?) they come from the factory the other way.
Thanks for the confirmation. Now I just need to put the forks back to stock position...
Also FWIW, the Pro-Tek LL-45 links that were on the bike are supposed to allow the height to be set to stock by using the first set of holes. When compared to the stock links I put back it was not an exact match - the first position on the Pro-tek was about 1/4 inch longer than stock length.
I would prefer the front be lowered 10-15mm below stock with the stock rear end height. It makes steering more responsive and the lower angle of attack helps prevent aerodynamic lift. Many who have tried it have declared their bikes more nimble yet more stable at the same time.
Excellent advice Greywolf. Will be doing this mod first thing in the spring before putting the bike back in service.
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