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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm hoping you can help me with troubleshooting my clutch / transmission problem which happened suddenly yesterday. I started the bike and left the driveway normally, got on the street and tried to stop at the corner (still in first gear) but the clutch didn't release when pulled... lurching, stalling, falling to the side.... Ahh, the tip-over club dues, I guess.

Only after righting the bike and trying to start out again did I realize that pulling the clutch lever was not disengaging the transmission.

The clutch lever feels normal to pull.
I've gone through all the clutch adjustment and everything is good.
Oil is normal.
Still - with the bike on the center stand, if i put it in gear and pull the clutch lever in, the wheel is still very difficult to turn (engine off).

I don't know what to do next, as I fear that I might be in for a serious engine/transmission/clutch service. This is a 2004 with about 27000km.

Anyone have any ideas??
 

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Take the side cover off the clutch actuator & front sprocket. Clean everything and take a close look. You'll see if something is broken or jammed. It takes an 8 mm socket. Not a bad idea to clean under this cover periodically, maybe every oil change. The helical cone-shaped gizmo that converts the clutch cable pull to the clutch pushrod push can use cleaning and a light dab of grease.
 

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How much free play do you, or did you have? When was the last time you adjusted it? The cables do stretch some over time, as well as wear to the clutch itself, but that should give you gradual notice that it needs to be adjusted, not suddenly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys. But I already took off the side cover and it is still clean from last years chain swap. All the engine side clutch adjustments have been done. Free play is within spec, and the cable was replaced just two years ago.

Pulling the lever operates the mechanism as expected and the push rod is moving in and out.

On the outside, everything looks 100%... It's just that it seemed like something is screwed up in the transmission inside, or something else.

I don't get how this can happen suddenly while the bike sat in the garage the last few days.
 

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Did it happen yesterday, Friday the 13 th?
 

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Did you adjust the pushrod as per your user's manual?
I think it's specified in the user's manual.

I seem to remember you're supposed to screw it in until contact, then back it off 1/4 turn.
 

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Does the 650 have a ball at the end of the actuating rod? Could it not be there?

Mechanism is very simple, Open her up and carefully remove the stack and you will find the problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
As a matter of fact it DID happen on Friday the 13th... :yikes:

The pushrods has been adjusted properly with the backed off 1/4 turn.

I'll have to take a closer look at that pushrod mechanism and see if there is anything fishy there.

Thanks for the help so far everyone! It'll be tomorrow night at the earliest that I can work on it again.
 

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There is a radial needle bearing at the end, #22.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Dang! I suppose that might be possible to break apart but it seems unlikely. Is it possible that something in the actuator mechanism (17) is broken so that it is not pushing as much as it is supposed to? I'll have to check if I can find a spec on that somewhere.

Thanks again... I'll keep you posted...

JB
 

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#22 is a roller thrust bearing so 16 can turn without turning 21 , or whatever is going on. I don't know if that is the cause of this problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I managed to slip out to the garage and check those surrounding fasteners too, and they're good. Everything is tight. The lock nut on the adjuster moves in by about half its thickness (2mm?) when the clutch lever is pulled. I assume this is the normal amount of motion?

Thanks for all the help thus far!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Resolved!!

Well – all is well again.

I feel it is my duty to report, since I rely heavily on other posts like this for help in de-bugging my own problems with just about everything.

So in the end, here is my theory. This is one of those things that seem like the more you think about it, the less you are sure of what actually occurred. I am fairly sure that the clutch issue did not cause me to renew my DL650 tip-over membership, but rather resulted from it. The actual tip over was caused by Friday the 13th or perhaps just general ineptitude. :mod2_wacko: I believe that something in the clutch mechanism was loosening but not moving, until the jolt from the drop caused it to go suddenly way out of adjustment. Then, upon attempting to debug, my early diagnosis was incorrect. I should have started the bike and tried the newly adjusted clutch rather than trying to ascertain its function by trying to spin the wheel while in gear with the clutch lever pulled.

So even though I did go through the pain of removing the clutch side plate on the engine and checking the plates and the thrust bearing (all of which are fine) and re-assembling and re-adjusting etc etc... it looks as though I did not actually need to do any of that. My fault. I’m still not 100% certain that the helical rod pusher thingie is up to snuff; it does feel rather worn out and loose. I might replace this one soon, even though I have everything working again.

Anyways, thanks everyone for your help. And wouldn’t you know it... the first day riding in to work again I parked right beside another new DL650 that one of my coworkers apparently acquired over the weekend. Not that I’m jealous... :wink5:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah, I wondered if that is what happened, though I could not take that thing apart to look at it more closely. Like I said though, it does seem pretty loose, so I better step up the plan on getting a new one before I am left stranded somewhere.

Thanks for the advice!!

JB
 

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I believe it is considered "normal" for the helical-actuator (#17 in GWs diagram) to feel kinda wobbly/loose. If you search these very forums you will find many folks have observed the same condition.
 

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cables don't stretch substantially, they fray & break if you fiddle with them too much, but they don't stretch
Cables stretch; not "substantially", but they stretch enough to make a difference. That's why there are two adjusters for the cable slack on the bike.
If cables didn't stretch, guitars would not go out of tune within minutes of being restrung.
 

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If cables didn't stretch, guitars would not go out of tune within minutes of being restrung.
Perhaps not the best example to explain why there are 'adjusters' on clutch-cable.... remember, the clutch cable spends most of its life NOT under any stress at all. (opposite of my car's parking-brake cable which is taut 99% of its life and only slack while I am driving.)

BTW: The parking-brake cable which is taut most of the time very rarely 'stretches' it may need re-adjustment because the brake-pads wear.

The main reasons a guitar changes tuning is because of the WOOD absorbing moisture and changing shape. Once installed and initially stretched into place, the strings do not stretch much more.

In my experience, a HIGH quality guitar with hand-selected wood and the neck properly attached to the body stays in tune for months at a time. (Mine does not alter more than 1/2 cent unless the weather changes from very dry to very humid)
 
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