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I can't depress my rear brake pedal. I had the bike towed to the dealer and they said I need a hydraulic assembly unit 55610-11j01. The they said they could not order it, and it would have cost $1900 for the part and $400 for the installation! Is it worth it to save my beloved V-Strom 650a? I found one on Ebay but it still costs over $1900, and it would take a month to ship it to me. Any ideas where I could get a good used unit? Thanks, bros.
 

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What Loco said. if it's frozen up, rear brake only, you could bypass the ABS and run a new line from the rear master cylinder to the brake unit. Just like a non-abs bike.
Abs is nice but it's not the end of the world if it doesn't work.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I can't depress my rear brake pedal, but my front brakes work fine. Dealer says it's a 55610-11J01 hydraulic assembly unit, which costs $1900., and they would want $400. to install it. Between a rock and a hard place. Any ideas where to get a used, working unit? Or a new one that's not $1900! I hate to trash my beloved 2012 DL650a over a brake module. Thanks, bros!
 

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Did you ever change the brake fluid?

https://www.google.com/search?biw=1556&bih=825&ei=ZnW6XKjNAs64tQXjg7nABQ&q=abs+problems+stromtrooper+site:www.stromtrooper.com&oq=abs+problems+stromtrooper+site:www.stromtrooper.com&gs_l=psy-ab.12...0.0..9355...0.0..0.0.0.......0......gws-wiz.nugwJ1lVjpc

https://www.stromtrooper.com/v-strom-service-maintenance-questions-discussions/418637-rear-brake-abs-disconnect.html

There have been reports that exercising the ABS may make it to work again: One method that may bring it back is by trying to activate the ABS system by repeatedly (many times) activating the ABS intervention. Best done on a grassy surface or slippery gravel surface and braking aggressively so the wheel(s) want to block. If the front ABS is still working properly, it will not block but get the ABS valves actuated. If you'r lucky it may dislodge whatever is blocking the rear circuit.

I do a brake fluid change. Then go out and find some slippery surfaces and make multiple runs and brake hard to activate the ABS (front and rear). That way I am sure that the old fluid is flushed out of the ABS unit. Then I go back and change the fluids again.
 

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Something sounds fishy with the dealers explanation. ABS is there to prevent wheel lock-up not to prevent the brakes from working.

When was your last fluid flush? Is it clear or does it look tea colored? If its not clear then flush it with a fresh bottle of dot-4 front and rear. The tea coloring means it has attracted moisture which can be hellish on the ABS system.

You should cycle the ABS pump regularly in a controlled situation by applying the brakes on a slippery surface allowing the ABS to activate. This allows the ABS system to cycle, inducing fresh clean fluid to prevent corrosion on the internal components.

Don't give up on the old ABS until you have confirmed that the problem isn't something simple like a blown fuse or that basic maintenance might solve.

Keep us posted on your progress.
 

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I will try this method! and, no....I did not ever change the brake fluid.
Let us know, what you find! A lesson learned for everybody else, change that fluid regularly. That fluid is hygroscopic = it absorbs moisture. Corrosion inside the ABS module can become an expensive consequence of deferred maintenance in this case.

Also it is prudent to activate the ABS regularly to move fluid that has been sitting in the ABS module out and exchange it as well as exercising those valves.
 

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Wow yet another 12 with abs pump issues......something is up with that model year and or build dates.
 

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Let us know, what you find! A lesson learned for everybody else, change that fluid regularly. That fluid is hygroscopic = it absorbs moisture. Corrosion inside the ABS module can become an expensive consequence of deferred maintenance in this case.

Also it is prudent to activate the ABS regularly to move fluid that has been sitting in the ABS module out and exchange it as well as exercising those valves.
True, except only the 12’s are having issues, I believe ABS 650’s started in 09?
 

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Most likely is an overfull rear reservoir. If you havn't looked at that first please do that first.

Second is crap caught between the pistons and caliper.

Note that the ABS unit shouldn't be capable of failing like this as it's effectively a bypass on the braking system and doesn't activate unless the ABS function kicks in. Brake pedal slowly heading for the bottom of travel when applied would match a faulty ABS unit.
 

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True, except only the 12’s are having issues, I believe ABS 650’s started in 09?
It does seem that Gen2 ABS modules (2012-2016) have a slightly higher failure rate than Gen1. FYI, Gen1 ABS was an option in 2007, 2008 & 2009 (there was no 2010 model) and became standard in 2011 and beyond. The ABS motor/valve were redesigned for Gen2 to weight less and use less power.

Note that the ABS unit shouldn't be capable of failing like this as it's effectively a bypass on the braking system and doesn't activate unless the ABS function kicks in. Brake pedal slowly heading for the bottom of travel when applied would match a faulty ABS unit.
I agree, the ABS is designed to "fail safe" meaning any failure won't interfere with the normal operation of the brake. I'm not sure what the OP means by "I can't depress my rear brake pedal" but if it is locked or doesn't move then something is wedging the operation of the pedal linkage, frozen master cylinder, jammed caliper pistons, etc. The ABS is almost certainly not the problem here.
 

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I feel your pain. I haven't changed my rear fluid as much as I should b/c the reservoir is out of sight out of mind.

My understanding is that an ABS failure mode includes locking out the rear brake (as you describe), as well as locking the rear brake.

You may be able to rig up an ABS exercise switch harness to cycle the rear channel solenoid with fresh fluid.

Regardless, you should be able to fit a non-ABS brake line between the rear master cylinder to restore normal braking.
 

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Why would anyone replace the ABS module for a rear channel failure? You really only need it for the front wheel. Just hook up a hose from the rear master cylinder to the caliper and call it good.
 
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