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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is the open heated grip connector on the 2020 DL1050XT still using the horn power connector?

I am picking up a left over bike next weekend and have been mail ordering know necessities.

Plan to try the seat and windscreen before ordering.

I am coming from riding gen 1 DL650 Stroms. I put 105,000mi on my 2006 + 55,000mi on my 2005.
On the 650 bikes I added center stand, PDM60, heated grips, zumo (660 - >XT), autocom, Sargent and Russell seats, madstad braket, Pat Walsh skid plate and bars with highway pegs. Givi hard bags, wider pegs, Elka fully adjustable rear shock, dash usb ports, led headlights.
 

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I’m interested in what brands of hot grips you are considering,& the install . My Oxford grips on my st1300 have a convoluted array of stuff.(2007) oxfords,maybe simpler now.
Also plug for horn connector?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Did you prefer The Sargent or the Russell seat?
Neither seat was new when I bought them (not made specifically for me)

The Russel Day Long was more comfortable on longer trips, especially sitting back with the highway pegs. The wings made it look a bit odd, helps hold a helmet securely placed on the seat, and mostly held you into one position. The more cupped seat still seems to shed rain when on the side stand.

The Sargent World Sport seat had the nice storage tube bungeed to the underside, and has a narrow front and wide back. It was a bit nice to be able to slide back and forward to have it hit your butt in different places. It was more conducive to hanging off (sport bike track style) and felt a bit nicer off road because at the narrow font you had an easier reach to the ground. My first ride on the Sargent
felt odd because acceleration and deceleration caused sliding aft and fore in the seat. The stock 05/06 DL650 saddle that held you in a fixed front to back position.

I have a second Sargent on my wife's DL650. It was kind of nice to have different seats so we could swap a few days into a long trip, just for a change.

Both Sargents and the Russel have held up nicely in thousands of miles of use (after I got them). They are garaged at home, and treated poorly when riding or camping. Both have spent long days in downpours, and had snow and frost swept off of them.

I upgraded because I felt the stock 2006 DL650 seat was OK upto a 900 mile weekend. Beyond that point it just left me a bit sore. However I have found on longer trips it takes about 3 days to "break in" my body. That is why I'm going to test the stock 2020 DL1050XT seat before I spend money on yet another seat.

Honestly there is a local guy that did a wonderful job reworking SkiMan10000 2020 DL650 seat. I will likely look into having one custom done if I don't find any deals on one. Anyone want to sell my a stock seat cheap?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I’m interested in what brands of hot grips you are considering,& the install . My Oxford grips on my st1300 have a convoluted array of stuff.(2007) oxfords,maybe simpler now.
Also plug for horn connector?
The wiring harness switched power on my 05/06 DL650 was taped up behind the radiator. I believe it was always intended for heated grips. I believe the 2020 DL650 still used that connector. The hardness connector that just happens to match the one used for the horn. So you could buy a horn connector and wire one end for your power connection and just plug in without any splicing of wires. I can't imagine they changed it on the 1050, but it's a very different animal now, so I wanted to check. It's possible that it's already now in use for the USB ports.

I've always used the cheap Symtec stick on type. In 2006 I think they cost $19 with a 3 position bat switch (now $47 on amazon). Eventually I upgraded to a Heat Troller that ran the grips and a heated liner. Later to a Heat Demon 4 zone 5 level controller (cheaper and didn't pulse my headlight at idle). I've always taped the left bar end under the Symtec with duct tape (heat duct/oven vent tape) or electrical tape. When I first installed them I changed to Progrip dual sport gel grips (with little holes from bar to fingers). I thought these would conduct better, and maybe they do. I liked them and have used them ever since. For my first grip install I used shaving cream, and it got a bit hard to use the slipping throttle in my first downpour! Sine then I've just floated them of/on on a cushion of air from a compressor, kind of magic the first time you do it. Especially after you try to slide one off/on dry.

I also put a cut off rubber golf club grip on both my clutch and break levers, It provides a little more grip and is less of a heat sink in cold weather.

I also prefer the open ended PowerMadd hand guards to the DL650/1000 OEM versions. Mostly because they can could be adjusted for best wind blocking, made mesh for hot weather air flow, and the open end makes using a Kaoko throttle lock easier. Adjustment might have been more necessary because I used ATV High Bend handlebars, for a wider up and back bar. I suspect the 1050XT guards will be fine, as they look smaller and real cruise replaces the throttle lock.
 

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Is the open heated grip connector on the 2020 DL1050XT still using the horn power connector?

I am picking up a left over bike next weekend and have been mail ordering know necessities.

Plan to try the seat and windscreen before ordering.

I am coming from riding gen 1 DL650 Stroms. I put 105,000mi on my 2006 + 55,000mi on my 2005.
On the 650 bikes I added center stand, PDM60, heated grips, zumo (660 - >XT), autocom, Sargent and Russell seats, madstad braket, Pat Walsh skid plate and bars with highway pegs. Givi hard bags, wider pegs, Elka fully adjustable rear shock, dash usb ports, led headlights.
I'm not sure I fully understand the details of the post.
I can confirm that the DL1050xt has an ignition switched 12VDC black coloured connector adjacent to the horn on the offside of the bike just above and behind the radiator. I believe this is for the heated grips if fitted. The wiring loom has a dummy plug inserted into the loom to keep it waterproof. This plug can be altered to become a proper wired plug if you use the correct crimp pins (Sumitomo 090 type) and the correct silicon sealing plugs instead of the fitted silicon blanking plugs.
I'm in the process of using this power supply for wiring in my SAT Nav as I didn't like the Suzuki heated grips due to their inclusion of the controller switch being integrated in the grip shoulder and therefore slightly reducing the available grip width and forcing your hand to a predetermined position because of the switch position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm not sure I fully understand the details of the post.
I can confirm that the DL1050xt has an ignition switched 12VDC black coloured connector adjacent to the horn on the offside of the bike just above and behind the radiator. I believe this is for the heated grips if fitted. The wiring loom has a dummy plug inserted into the loom to keep it waterproof. This plug can be altered to become a proper wired plug if you use the correct crimp pins (Sumitomo 090 type) and the correct silicon sealing plugs instead of the fitted silicon blanking plugs.
I'm in the process of using this power supply for wiring in my SAT Nav as I didn't like the Suzuki heated grips due to their inclusion of the controller switch being integrated in the grip shoulder and therefore slightly reducing the available grip width and forcing your hand to a predetermined position because of the switch position.
Thanks, at least I know the connector still exists. It's great that they provide the at least the shell of the mate to it. I suspect it would be cheaper to buy a pre-made end than to get the pins and tool.

Can you determine if the cable is the MT 090 listed on this page:
The place for all your motorcycle electric needs.

This is an example of what I would buy and use one end of for the 2006 DL650:
36852-06G00 Suzuki Wire, Horn Lead $12.21 - AdeptPowersports

I suspect what I need is at the bottom of this page:
VStrom
 

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Here's the dummy connector and plug after being separated from the machine (2020 1050XT)




I found it easier to just use posi-Locs to make my connection there for GPS, but I understand not everyone wants to chop off a factory connector

 
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Thanks.I might wait to see about getting pins etc.I fixed enough stuff other people cobbled up (as a road service mechanic on fork lifts). Please don’t think I,m calling your work hacked! I appreciate your time to photograph the plug& location.
Cheers, dave
 

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No offense taken. I've had good luck with PosiLocs, especially in tight confines where it's hard to get a tool in. After I wired these I covered the joint with wire loom and tucked it away; it'll be fine for as long as I run the bike.
 

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Hi, I can only comment on UK spec models but it is the mt090 that is required. This also fits the USB power connector in the headlight cowl & 12VDC cigarette style in the tail of the 1050xt if you want to repurpose these.

I guess from the photo of the snipped connector that it's the larger of the two connectors (male) you need to order to connect to the loom connector - is that right? And as far as access goes, can you get to it by removing the top rad bolts and hinging the rad down, or is there a better way?

@DL1050xt : In case it's of use, I found these in the UK: 6187-2171 (male, (£1.69) and 6180-2181 MT090-2B (female, £1.65). Plus £3.99 2-5 day carriage.
 

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I guess from the photo of the snipped connector that it's the larger of the two connectors (male) you need to order to connect to the loom connector - is that right? And as far as access goes, can you get to it by removing the top rad bolts and hinging the rad down, or is there a better way?

@DL1050xt : In case it's of use, I found these in the UK: 6187-2171 (male, (£1.69) and 6180-2181 MT090-2B (female, £1.65). Plus £3.99 2-5 day carriage.
Hi, Suzuki actually already have the plug (socket) attached to the loom (see pic) with blanks fitted to maintain a waterproof connection so in reality all you need is the 2 pins for a 12VDC switched connection but as the cost of postage is relatively high compared to the components it would make sense to me to buy some male & female plugs / sockets as the dash USB & tail cigarette socket (plug) needs the opposite connector to be able to make flying leads or attach a device. Yes the connection you need @ the horn / radiator is the larger of the two (I never really trust male / female / plug / socket descriptions as I've been caught out in the past ordering what I thought was a male plug or a female socket only to be supplied with a male plug containing female connections or a female plug with male pins, still don't really know the correct identifier as it may be manufacturer dependant) and depending on what you need to do around the plug / socket you can actually remove and reconnect without removing anything, however as I need to locate the Sat Nav power module & some extra cable then I removed the side fairings to allow me to do a tidy job. see pics for black connector @ radiator & white connector in tail & fairing
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the plug photos and ideas.

It is funny how our individual experiences mold our thinking. I don't like crimp on connections because I find they fail more often. Whenever possible I solder and electrical tape.

However I'm not as quick to cut the electrical harness. Even though I have had some of the oem harness connection plugs fail after doing valve checks. Since that first failure, pull every electrical plug on the engine for a squirt of QD anytime I have the tank off. Once or twice a year.

Soldering my wiring and QD on the connectors has resulted in 15 years of trouble free stroming.

I suspect I have been programmed this way by lots of wet riding and a number of years commuting to work during the New England winters, close to the Atlantic Ocean's salt.

Arid inland riders have been programmed differently. My bike would likely fail in their environment of something I never worry about, like air filters and radiator fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I guess from the photo of the snipped connector that it's the larger of the two connectors (male) you need to order to connect to the loom connector - is that right? And as far as access goes, can you get to it by removing the top rad bolts and hinging the rad down, or is there a better way?

@DL1050xt : In case it's of use, I found these in the UK: 6187-2171 (male, (£1.69) and 6180-2181 MT090-2B (female, £1.65). Plus £3.99 2-5 day carriage.
This was very helpful!

I just ordered 2 pair from ebay.


I will confirm they fit correctly once everything arrives.
 

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<snip> (I never really trust male / female / plug / socket descriptions as I've been caught out in the past <snip>
I know exactly what you mean (hence also describing it as "larger")! Thanks for the rest of the info. I've ordered up some plugs and spare connectors. Now just need to figure out the best way to join 3 pairs of cables to the 2 that will come out of the new plug.
 
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