StromTrooper banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
256 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I begun the long postponed electrical installations this weekend and am puzzled about the best position for a heat troller for running heated grips. First I installed a Blue Seas fusebox yesterday and relocated the power line for my Zumo to run off the fusebox. No problem - I'll post pictures later but I modeled the fusebox installation on others I've seen here (thanks). Today I began to work on the grips and First Gear warm-n-safe heat troller installation and then I plan to finally install my Stebel airhorn.

Here is where it got interesting. I installed the heat grips under grip puppies (again thanks for the tips from others who have gone before me) and then I removed the left panel to gain access for wiring. I'm putting the heat troller control under the horn button on the left clutch grip but there does not seem to be a good position for the heat troller itself. The best position I could determine was to put it against the bike's frame in a narrow space between the frame and gas tank. The positive and negative power lines don't make it all the way to the fuse box so I'm going to have to solder in some additional line to make the connection to the fuse box. If I put it the heat troller power unit closer to the battery I would have a similar problem with the length of wires connecting back to the heated grips. I'm comfortable with a solder gun but a bit more length to the wires would have been nice.

Anyone want to share their experience with installing a heat troller as part of their heated grip installation?
 

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,048 Posts
I have one for the grips/gloves and another for the jacket liner. The former is the type with the knob on a small printed circuit board while the latter is contained in a small plastic box. I let go of the need to see the little light and just used a single hole for the shaft to mount each. One easy mounting for the boxed one is to attach it to the top of the front brake master cylinder with 3M dual lock. See the second picture which is older. Dual Lock is like Velcro but all plastic and no fuzz and holds much better.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
256 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
The heat troller unit I have has plenty of wire running from the on/off control itself back to the power switch box, so it's placement isn't much of a problem. It is the relative shortness of the in / out power lines out of the power switch box that creates a problem for me. The pictures are useful but my real question is about how you all ran the power lines back to the battery and forward to the heated grips, and where you put the power switch box.
 

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,048 Posts
The pictures are useful but my real question is about how you all ran the power lines back to the battery and forward to the heated grips, and where you put the power switch box.
The other box is dual-locked under the left side of the fairing under and forward of where Roger has his controllers. Wire length is irrelevant as far as I am concerned. If it is too long, I shorten it and, if it is too long, I lengthen it. The power leads from the box are soldered to a pair of wires from the fuse box under the seat. If you don't solder, Posi-Locks and Posi-Taps will do the job just fine. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Posi-Lock/posi-lock.html Just use 16ga wire or better to handle the current requirement in your case. To do a proper job, part of the fairing as well as the tank can be removed for access to wiring placement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
256 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks. "The other box is dual-locked under the left side of the fairing" is what I was asking. Placing the box there makes sense and as I said, I know how to solder the electrical line to make it long enough to reach back to the fuse box.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Good timing I am installing a heat troller and Symtec grip heater setup this weekend. My plan has been to run them off the factory heated grip plug (behind radiator). I ordered the eastern beaver adapter plug. as i understand it i should be able to plug in there and not need to run wires all the way back to the battery. has anyone done this?
 

·
FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
Joined
·
38,048 Posts
Sure. I used the OEM heated grip connector for the grips on my last bike. The present one has a fuse block installed to handle more electrical accessories so I used that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,436 Posts
The heat troller unit I have has plenty of wire running from the on/off control itself back to the power switch box, so it's placement isn't much of a problem. It is the relative shortness of the in / out power lines out of the power switch box that creates a problem for me. The pictures are useful but my real question is about how you all ran the power lines back to the battery and forward to the heated grips, and where you put the power switch box.
Now that you mention it I did connect my power to the factory grip connector so I dind't have a very long run at all.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top