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Discussion Starter #1
I changed the original battery out and before start I noticed that the high bean indicator was lit and the dimmer switch had no effect. The headlights were not on prior to start and after start still dont work.

The idle was a little high, but settled down after a few seconds.

Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Fuses good and only connections I took loose were the battery cables and two extra wires on terminals for charger pigtail and horn relay(aftermarket).
 

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When I move headlight switch through it's positions, the blue high beam indicator flickers slightly.
I would remove and reinstall the cables you removed, ensure you have good connections if the fuses are good. It sounds like its shorting out which ground is generally the first thing I look at with 12v electrical gremlins.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cables all connected securely. I think the slight flicker of hi beam indicator is probably normal and shows that the switch is working.

My first thought was headlight relay but apparently there is not one.
 

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What kind of voltage are you getting at idle. Does the passing switch get any light. Hopefully someone will chime in that might have a better idea.
 

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If all was good before the battery change then during the change is most likely where the problem arose from. Bad ground or bad hot to the lights. One set of extra wires reversed. Does your horn work. Sounds like it is a new bike to you. Check to make sure there isn't some sort of light relay spliced in somewhere. A common lighting problem is in the starter switch where it cuts the headlights as it juices the starter relay. The contacts get burnt.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Horn works. I took left side switch housing apart and see no burn marks and contacts are clean. I sprayed DEOXIT in starter switch and then disconnected the extra battery wires with no effect. I just noticed that my odometer gained about 11,000 miles during the troubleshooting!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
do you know for sure that headlights were working before battery swap?
I believe so. I also think I would have noticed the HI beam indicator on. It maybe a coincidence that it was noticed after battery swap. I unplugged a headlight and tested plug with a circuit tester and got power on all three terminals. I think one is ground,so why power on it? I plugged a known good H4 bulb and it would not work. When I was probing plug I heard an electric motor sound near rear of bike.

Maybe these are clues for someone with more electrical knowledge than me.
 

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11 thousand miles? That is wild. Something is going on. But dash electronics are separate from the headlight circuit. Most fuses have a little contact points on top so you can check both sides for voltage without removing it. Then with ignition on see if you have voltage at the headlight sockets. If there is power at the socket you have a bad ground. If no power work back till you find some. Or work forward from the fuse. Was there power at the starter switch on the headlight side of it?
 

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And if you have no headlight ground you can see power on the ground as it would come from the other headlight if the socket is still attached to the bulb. Power in. Through the filament and to the common ground wire. Then you provide the ground with the meter.
 

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Go back and do your power tests again but this time use a test light with a incandescent bulb. (10-20w is good)

With no load on the system a multimeter or a LED test light are not reliable.

Even one strand of wire or a bad switch can give you a result but it will not carry enough power to run a load.

A good earth is imperative to your system so ensure you test for that with a load.
 

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Leave one headlight plugged into harness. Take the other headlight socket and run a jumper wire(say a # 18 or larger) from the ground prong on the socket to a good ground. Turn key to on. If plugged in headlight lights you are missing the headlight ground. I am fairly sure the headlight run to a common ground. I don't have a wiring diagram.Will have to check online. Be sure to jump from the ground prong or the fuse will blow. That is where the tester Rolex is talking about is handy, you can poke around and not blow a fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Leave one headlight plugged into harness. Take the other headlight socket and run a jumper wire(say a # 18 or larger) from the ground prong on the socket to a good ground. Turn key to on. If plugged in headlight lights you are missing the headlight ground. I am fairly sure the headlight run to a common ground. I don't have a wiring diagram.Will have to check online. Be sure to jump from the ground prong or the fuse will blow. That is where the tester Rolex is talking about is handy, you can poke around and not blow a fuse.
Ground was the problem. When jumping ground as described, other light came on and I heard a relay near battery click. One of the extra wires on battery goes to an added relay. It doesn't look like the Eastern Beaver ones pictured on their site.

I jumped a ground from the relay and lights are now normal. The only unusual thing is the left turn signal indicator flashes dimly as HI beams are selected. Another bad ground?
 

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ok glad you solved problem. someone added headlight relays and ground was bad.

indicator flashing is caused by collapsing magnetic field from relays. It's normal if you add relays. I have that too but never noticed it until I read about it here.
 
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