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Discussion Starter #1
Till last week I did not know that vstrom have that problem for years.
My Vstrom (from 2012) is from central europe, it has 26k Km, fitted with extra LED lights (using 80 Watts on full power) with DRL function, Oxford Touring heated grips (48Watts), Scottoiler E-system, Garmin nav.

I have found that I have no lights. Everything else is working fine.
  • Bulbs -ok
  • Fuses - ok
  • Start switch opened, cleaned, no melted cables.
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Still no lights.

Then I opened the left hand headlight switch, sprayed with a bit of contact spray, then I got HI beam working.
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Came back to bike next day....recovered high beam not working again.

Next day: connectors on the left side of radiator under the body cowling looks clean on first look (were treated with contact spray in winter 2018), resprayed them again with contact spray.
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Deasambled hafl of the bike and found that 10pins yellow/partially transparrent connector has a small melting tear over the LO beam cable (white).
Problem is that I can not disconnect that connector!

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It looks like that female and male part of connector are glued (?) together in that melted point, see pic above.
I am able to put in the screw driver as you can see on pic below but I am affraid to apply some pressure on the walls inside to connector just do not to damage it, crack it.
Or other theory is that the pins are sticked together because of the heat (spot welding)?
Any idea how to disconnect that connector?

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Also white connect just beside the yellow one is dirty inside despite it is sealed connector ( I assume it is sealed connector becaus eof the dark red rubber rings inside).

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Next steps:
  • definitelly going to order the EB harness
  • considering the kit for cutting one headlight to save some power for heated grips as well from EB
  • planning to clean all other connectors on the bike where I have access and apply newly bought ACF50. Newer heard about that product before, just found info here.
  • reopen and clean the left handlebar light switch + elec. greas or ACF50
What do you suggest as the best practise. Clean the connectors with contact spray and apply on pins - battery terminal greas (LiquiMoly) or ACF50 only?

Yellow melted connector: I was thinking about jump wire to connect white and white/blue strips cable directly.

Can you please help me how to disconnect that melted connector?
I have found some video on YouTube where some guy is applying WD40 to stuck connector (not melted) and it helps.

Thank you.
 

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I would think brute force will get them separated eventually. The contacts will not be welded together, then you would have no melting problem. Just the opposite. They will be oxidized.

Your switches look fine, so I would leave them alone, especially if you install the relay kit.

I filled all my "not sealed" connectors with dielectric grease (silicone grease) and did nothing else. That was more to keep the elements out since most connectors are not sealed. I do have a headlight relay kit but the V2 has only a single bulb each low and high beam, so less of a problem to begin with.
 

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You are aware that there is 1 or 2 mechanisms that prevent the connection from being pulled apart unless the mechanism/s are not holding it so as to prevent it coming apart. usually press 1 or 2 nylon fingers in to release the latch. be sure that they are not holding it together then flex the connection from 1 side to the other repeatedly. apply silicone lube and foul language as needed.

Good luck
 

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I used two players on mine and did some light twisting and turning once the two half’s acted like they were separated I then pushed the tabs and it came apart.
 

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I recommend cutting the wires and soldering them together with heat shrink tubing. For the other connectors, Acf50 and bicycle tubing tie wrapped on the front side and open in the back.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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I recommend cutting the wires and soldering them together with heat shrink tubing. For the other connectors, Acf50 and bicycle tubing tie wrapped on the front side and open in the back. ...
... Another method, which is reversible, is bypassing the burned connector pin with a Posi-Lock connector. They are very secure and reversible. So if later for maintenance you need to separate that connector you can also separate the bypass without cutting it again.
Before doing all this try to release the offending pin male and female side, clean it up with a contact cleaner and re-insert. And then measure the resistance over the connection. May be just fine as long as you have a relay kit installed, so there is little load on that connector.

Your issue is not corrosion because of poor connector protection (which also happens a fair amount), its overload because too much amperage for the size of connector!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you for your tips guys. I appreciate it!
Toda,y finaly I have got that connector/coupler disconnect. BTW is it a 10 Position 090 HM Connector (link from EB webshop)?
Just to make sure I will order the correct one.

To disconnect it, I have used WD 40 in the gaps between male and female part of connector and then ACF 50 from the top of the male part connector just around the cables and it leaked in down through the pins. Leaved it to work some time and then I used pliers to hold the female part of connectr and pushed up a bit with screwdriver the male part of the connector.
I was hoping that the damage will be a bit smaller, but I think the connector and affected pins needs to be replaced.

Click on small pics to get full size.
Getting better :) Apologies for previously added full size of pics to the post.

celkovy.jpg female 1.png fermale 3.png frmale 2.png male 1.png male 2.png male 3.png

The orange and yellow with blue stripe cables - are they for HI beam? Asking because they are a bit darker as well. See on pics below.

IMG_20200729_144218.jpg IMG_20200729_144253.jpg

According to service manual this 10 pin coupler/connector is for left handlebar lead wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
... Another method, which is reversible, is bypassing the burned connector pin with a Posi-Lock connector. They are very secure and reversible. So if later for maintenance you need to separate that connector you can also separate the bypass without cutting it again.
Before doing all this try to release the offending pin male and female side, clean it up with a contact cleaner and re-insert. And then measure the resistance over the connection. May be just fine as long as you have a relay kit installed, so there is little load on that connector.

Your issue is not corrosion because of poor connector protection (which also happens a fair amount), its overload because too much amperage for the size of connector!
Thank you for the tip, I will have a look if I can find them here in Ireland.
 
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