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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone re-wired the lights to pull it from the switch being the main source of power??

This is a wiring thing that a lot of companies have done throughout the years by running the power though a lot of wires essentially causing a huge power loss by not putting in a relay.

Big deal with some of the older fords.
The issue with those was the headlights only getting 10ish volts due to how it was wired vs the 12 they should be getting.

Whiter Whites, Brighter Brights - Ford-Trucks.com

This is an article i'm referring too.
It works for the the trucks really well, but I don't think I've seen anything regarding something like this for our bikes.

I'm not 100% sure if our power system could handle giving full output to the lights, but I'm sure that the lights would be waaaay better when getting full voltage vs what they are loosing though the weak starter switch.

This could be wired 2 different ways.
Toggle on the dash, or just still using the stock switch, but the relay in between allowing for the starter switch to negotiate the relay hookup as opposed to a toggle switch.

Thoughts?
 

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I suggest you do some searching here, there's a massive thread somewhere, and commercially available Wee specific relay kits. I've put one in myself.
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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This this kit is all plug and play with some options.
VStrom

A couple of relays and a little wiring experience makes a nice DIY project. Use the battery negative for ground from each headlight connector on the lower left though, not the chassis. The #85 relay terminal grounds and the H4 male connector on the upper right can be from black/white stock wires as they only power the relays. Stock high beam wires are yellow and low beam wires are black/blue while ground wires are black/white.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Oh cool
Same concepts.

I love this forum, but there is a slight disconnect on articles sometimes when things are wrote up for a wee and not a vee.
That and the odd differences between the wee and vee.
Like front sprocket nuts, or how the wee has abs and the vee doesn't.

I have a tendency to search forum specific instead of whole forum as i've noticed even at times that torque specs are different between wee and vee.

Thanks for the replies guys!
 

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I make one change from GW. I run a large gauge negative wire from the battery to the front of the bike to make a negative bus. I connect all my accessory negatives to this. It is the same thing electrically, just a bit easier and neater.
 

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Eastern Beaver Dude, all will be explained...

uncaged
 

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FORUM GODFATHER.....R.I.P. PAT
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I make one change from GW. I run a large gauge negative wire from the battery to the front of the bike to make a negative bus. I connect all my accessory negatives to this. It is the same thing electrically, just a bit easier and neater.
Not really a change but a clarification. I've done the same thing. I put a fuse block in the fairing of one bike and ran 12ga positive and negative main wires to the fairing on the other. Each also had positive and negative bus bars on the top of the battery.
 
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