The connector is on the left side.

Inside a big rubber boot.

Easternbever do a plug and play relay kit, it takes the load off that plug and the starter button.

You can build your own cheap with parts from online stores if you have the skills, if not just buy the EB kit to stop any future problems.

 

The connector is on the left side.

Inside a big rubber boot.

Easternbever do a plug and play relay kit, it takes the load off that plug and the starter button.

You can build your own cheap with parts from online stores if you have the skills, if not just buy the EB kit to stop any future problems.

I unpluged that plug and it looked good. I sprayed the plug with contact cleaner and applied dielectric grease. No change. Is there a schematic to build the relay? Thanks for your help.

 

You need a test light to check for power and ground on both sides of the plug.

A meter is not good enough as it puts no load on the system, I use an old headlight globe for testing as it's a good size load.

You can buy H4 headlight relay kits online, they are made for cars so you will need to shorten the wires, get 2 one for low beam & one for high.

Ground and power wires go directly to the battery the trigger wires will go the Suzuki headlight plugs, one in the low beam socket the other in the high.

 

Please don't think that by adding headlight relays, that this fault will be solved. The purpose of the headlight relays is to help take the load off the starter button and to a degree to protect the wiring harness of the headlight circuitry.

However, you still need to sort out whatever is currently the cause of the headlight failure on your L2 Glee. Reply #15 in https://www.stromtrooper.com/thread.../threads/electrical-ghosts-need-help-with-my-commuter-bike.432172/#post-5511683 has a wiring diagram attached, that can aid you to determine the wire colors involved as well as the electrical path of the headlights circuit.
For the record, remote diagnostic is difficult for me without being able to see exactly what is taking place during the testing process. If you don't mind, please provide indepth feedback on what you are looking at and where you are testing, etc, so that I (we the members) can see through your eyes on what is is being done in the diagnosing process.

 

Just joined - Thanks for the valuable resources I found here.

Found no headlights on my 2012 DL650 last month. Checked likely spots in order of disassembly required. The black 8-pin plug on the radiator shroud had a pin get so hot that it plastic welded the plug shut. Had to partially destroy the plug just to find out what was going on inside. I was able to relocate the pins to the open position, since only 7 out of 8 pins are used in this plug.

Edit Found out more about the coupler option here after a quick search. https://www.stromtrooper.com/posts/5769805/
Thanks, again!

 

Welcome to the forum, @colbybhearn.