lol....cant see why my 08 model I traded with 70k km had no issues..now the new model,,,,seems like the japanese have not sorted out the cheap connectors..lol

 

No switch problems but have replaced the bulbs.

Installed Eastern Beaver Headlight Relay kit at 19,000 miles. At 41,000 lost the right low beam and replaced. At 44,000 lost the left low beam and replaced.



YMMV

 

Hi!

Bought a ´02 DL1000 few weeks ago and it is not able to light the low beams.
Wires from the fuse box to the headlamps are ok because if I connect 12V directly to the fuse box the lows come on.
I dissembled the plug behind the radiator on the right side. It was corroded a little. Cleaned the pins and reconnected it but no change.
Have browsed throw this forum and in one light related topic where mentioned that if Hi/Lo both are down then it is probably the starter switch and if only lows then the problem is somewhere else.
I have working Hi's and no lows, the issue should be somewhere fuse box <-> starter switch side.
Any suggestion where else to look?

Regards
Martin

 

There is a second plug behind the radiator in the circuit. The selector switch can be a problem but that is rare.

 

It's one of the pins / sockets in a large connector under the LEFT SIDE cowling plastic. You will be able to see and touch it alongside a smaller connector by removing only the plastic shield in front under the nose. One large and 7(?) smaller pushpins, 2 philips screws. Take off the left side cowling plastic as well for complete access.

You will know which 12V. pin & socket in the multi-pin connector. They will be burned. The plastic around them may be melted a bit. Clean them and they will burn again. It's a reason why folks recommend installing a relay for the headlamps.

I soldered an automotive 2 connector SAE plug on each side. 16 ga. that is heavier than the wimpy 18 ga. it's soldered to. One connection for the burned hot wire, the other for the biggest black/white striped ground wire. Ground to the battery is by wire only, not the frame. Worth the effort to beef it up.

Unpluggable and I haven't lost my low beam since the fix 4 summers ago. High beam is a different wire connector pair and has never failed. Not ON all of the time either.

 

Added a picture to the attachment (sorry about the bad quality). As I understand correctly the first (black) connector is for right side handlebar switch, second (green) for ignition switch and third (yellow or white) for right side handlebar switch? Disconnected all of them but now burned connectors. There was little corrosion. Used the connector cleaner, scraped the pins a little and replugged them - no change.

Correct me if I'm wrong but if the issue would be on the left side connector then I wouldn't get the lights on when I jump wire the battery to the low beams fuse stands? So the issue should be from the fuse box to the right side handlebar switch(es)? Right side lightswitch only lights up "parking lights".

By the way, is the 2 pins black unplugged connector for OEM handlebar heated grips?

Regards
Martin

 

Attachment cut down the resolution and it seems I can not edit the previous post. Will add the picture as a link (this is not allowed too ).
staff.planet.ee/vstrom/2018/connectors.jpg

 

The low beam power wire at the headlights is black with a blue stripe. The '02 doesn't have a start switch headlight cutout so the problem can't be with the start switch or the connector for the right switch pod. The connectors for the low beam wire are the large connector in the left side of the fairing that connects black/blue with white and the connector for the left handlebar pod that is behind the radiator connects white with white/blue.

 

Thanks for clarifying.
Took a manual and draw some colored lines - staff.planet.ee/vstrom/2018/diagram.png

It cannot be the green line (Y/W from dimmer switch to lightning switch) because then there wouldn't be any Hi beams.
And it cannot be the read line (B/Bl) because then it wouldn't light up the lows on jumper wire.

So most probably (like you suggested) the issue lies on the blue line (W/Bl to the "white connector" behind the radiator -> W to dimmer switch) or in the dimmer switch itself.

 

I can put your pic directly in the post. It's the magic of being a moderator. You have a very unusual bike if your diagram is correct. Vee's having a headlight on/off switch are rare. Being a moderator, I can tell what region you are from and have checked your European location can have that model. We agree on the possible trouble spots and the rest of those reading will have a better idea of what we are talking about.

 

Thank you for post edit. I'm new to the Vee world. Didn't know there is this kind of differences in different regions V-stroms.
Yes, I live in Europa, Estonia. The bike is originally from the UK and I downloaded manuals (from where I snapshotted the diagram) from UK V-strom forum.
This is how the ignition switch looks like on my bike. Based on the diagram and the switch I had an impression that moving the light switch from right to left it is OFF-Gauge light (if the term. is correct)-ON
Another picture for you to edit
staff.planet.ee/vstrom/2017/rutska.jpg

 

Checked Black Lab Adventures Starter switch maintenance page and indeed, no light switch on that switch case.
I might over think things but I have already ordered H4 Dual Headlight Relay Kit from EB. Based on the diagram above, do I have to modify the relay kit or do I even need it for this kind of setup (no burned connections atm)?

 

No modification is needed. The relays take the place of the headlights in the circuit. Once you re-establish the bad connection, the relays will prevent future problems. You still have to find the present problem and fix it though.

 

Hi!

I'm lost again. Took apart right hand (dimmer) switch and found corrosion on Hi/Low switch.

staff.planet.ee/vstrom/rs/rhsc.jpg

Cleaned it up.

There was a brown wire soldered on top of yellow/white. There was little corrosion on wires, cleaned it up and soldered it again.

staff.planet.ee/vstrom/rs/rhsb.jpg

Understood from wiring diagram that there should be only 3 wires. What is the brown one for?

Anyways, connected those back to the bike and nothing. When jump wire white cable connection with +12V nothing happens with lows. If I jump wire yellow HI's light up.

Getting back to the diagram posted in previous posts.
When I jump wire fuse stands lows come on so read line is ok.
Hi comes on when I switch dimmer switch so green line is ok.
When I jump wire dimmer switch white connection the blue line should be "ok" too but no lights. Don't know where else to look :frown2:

 

Trace the journey power takes to the lights on the wiring diagram. Then check for power in the wires you traced one after the other. There will be a point where the leg you check will have power and the next leg won’t. That will show you where the open circuit is.

 

Went to the garage today to assemble my TDM. Before leaving I checked the Vee too for the moment. Have made some progress it seems. The low fuse was toasted. Replaced it and there is a change. Turning the ignition on, left low turns on and the right one is barely glowing. When I switch right-hand switch to the first position the gauge bulbs light up. When I switch it to second position nothing changes. When I turn switch off lows still stay on (left normal, right one glowing). When I switch highs on (dimmer switch) then only left lights up. Swapped the bulbs, the same story. At least some progression but still something is wrong. I still wonder why there was brown wire soldered to the white/yellow (HI beams wire).

 

White/yellow is a common wire that is split by the switch into yellow for high beam and white for low beam. The stock brown wire is for the tail light.

 

I'll add my data to the pool here. 2012 Glee that lost headlights at just over 71k. Checked a lot of things - voltage was fine, but seemed like not enough current was getting through. All connectors looked fine, some slight corrosion on the contacts in the starter switch. Cleaned up, covered with dielectric grease, headlights working again. It should be noted that I switched to H4 LED drop-in bulbs very early on, which draw about a third of the power, if not less, of standard incandescent bulbs. That's one of the reasons I never bothered putting the harness on, but...we'll see how I get on.

 

My ‘12 DL650 also lost its headlights (low beam lost) at about 7k miles. I found a burnt terminal in a white connector block, located on the left side, on top of the radiator. The connector pins were black and burnt. I had to splice in a jumper.
I guess that I should have installed the Eastern Beaver headlight relay harness sooner...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

It's worth doing for the additional brightness alone. The long term reliability is a bonus.

 

My guess is that I probably wouldn't notice with the LEDs. The way those work is that they're either getting enough juice to run at full power...or they don't work at all. It's one of the reasons I reckon I was surprised by them going out...and another reason I'll get no warning that I'm about to drop below the minimum threshold again.

Shipping that harness to the UK is going to be a killer! :/

 

Was trying to find the fault of my issue. And found out that 2 of the wires on my starter switch was already burnt. Any idea on what to do next guys and gals? Hahaha

 

The only way to prevent this is to fit relays to power the lights and take the load off that switch.

You may be able to clean it up & get yours working, you will need it working when the relays are fitted.

Eastern beaver make and sell them, I built my own, you may be able to if you have the skills.

Home (easternbeaver.com)

 

11 Wee ABS. Have the dreaded no headlights failure. I still have high beams, and my gauge cluster still works.

Going to rip into the bike tonight and try to track the issues down.

 

Perhaps check if the flash to pass switch is not slightly depressed by a grip guard or similar.
Also check for power on the bulb connector, by using a test lamp in stead of a multimeter.
I use the battery terminal to connect my test lamp to, that way I will know that I have a full battery voltage to work with when tracking down electrical faults.
Let the forum know what you find.

 

I have a 2012 DL650. I have tried all of the repair hints with no success. What is the relay fix you mention? I cannot find the the connector on the right side of the fairing. I have cleaned the switches on both the handlebars. I pulled the gas tank and checked and cleaned the connectors there. Fuses are good. Bulbs are good. I can put 12 volts at the fuse holder and get lights. What am I doing wrong?