I had my headlights go out on me recently while riding through the Mohave desert at night. It was like closing my eyes shut tight, maybe I should plan around a full moon next time. Luckily I had a USB cable with me and was able to tie down my flash to pass switch. I'm sure I'm on a few truck driver's s**t lists now.

Anyway, my issue came from the right control connector. The terminals for the O/R Y/W wires were loose and were failing to make any contact. This is what the worse of the two terminals looked like, http://i.imgur.com/oyJR9P1.jpg

I chose to just bypass the connector and solder the two wires together. My side and yellow connectors show no signs of corrosion or heat damage.

 

Hey All,

Just started having this issue.. headlights not coming on, starter switch stuck in the intermediate position... only happened a couple times. I opened the switch housing, and found my wires "well done"... what the heck? I understand that the circuit doesn't have a relay. I am curious as to how there are SO MANY issues with this, and Suzuki hasn't come out with some form of a fix. I understand that Eastern Beaver has a relay kit. My knowledge of electrical situations is minimal at best.. but I don't like just slapping leads on the battery. I was always told as a boy that 'those' types of harnesses drain the battery (not specific to EB Harness).

Any advice??

 

I was always told as a boy that 'those' types of harnesses drain the battery (not specific to EB Harness).

Any advice??

A direct connection to the battery only draws power if there is a load attached. The relays are electrically controlled switches. When the ignition is off, so are the relays so no power is drawn from the battery.

 

Buy & fit the EB kit.

 

The EB kit, or a homemade one of the same design are the absolute best way to remedy the situation. Generally what you've been told would be true if the harness wasn't switched with power via the relays. But with the relays it will draw no more current from the battery and charging system than it already does. It might actually draw less current due to the lowered resistance.

 

I'm developing a button on my keyboard that just prints "What Greywolf said".

 

Would that be a "Macro"?

 

Will the HID`s cause over heating when fitted

I had problems with them on a Triumph 1050 (the worse light on any late model production bike)

I'm not happy with 2015 XTABS lights ,don't ride much at night due to Kangaroos etc

But HID and/or spots might go on later ??

 

Will the HID`s cause over heating when fitted



I had problems with them on a Triumph 1050 (the worse light on any late model production bike)



I'm not happy with 2015 XTABS lights ,don't ride much at night due to Kangaroos etc



But HID and/or spots might go on later ??

Use LED's. That what I did on my 2015 XT and they were easy to install and worth the $.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Lumen for lumen, HIDs are cooler than halogens. 35W HIDs are brighter than stock 55W halogens. If only they didn't keep burning out time consuming to replace ballasts, I would have kept them.

 

I'll add my voice to the starter switch chorus.

06 dl650 45,000 miles.

Took the switch apart, cleaned it up, and put it back together again (ok, to be honest several times before I got everything in the right detents and lined up). That little space is a bear with my fat fingers and failing eyes, but it's working as it should now.

thank you all for your combined wisdom

 

Now go order up the EB light kit relays and never have to worry about it again.

 

Any one tried installing a LED kit with there oem headlight assembly?

 

Like this? http://www.stromtrooper.com/general...discussion/313497-h4-led-headlight-replacement-advice-suggestions-pitfalls.html

 

Need to add an "Other" Poll option.

Mine ended up being a short in the wiring harness. $165 later I'm back on the road, with the starter button headlight cut out now bypassed. :thumbup:

 

Just lost my headlights on my 13 at 25,000 miles. Issue tbd...updates to follow.

Edit 1: Not the starter switch. Looks brand new. No corrosion or grit. Cleaned contacts and reassembled.

Edit 2. Took to shop. Tank removed and connector inspected. Y/B wire to Orange wire showed overheat damage and corrosion on connectors. Cleaned connectors and dielectric grease applied. All is well again. EB headlight relay is enroute.....

Edit 3. EB headlight harness installed and operational. Very easy and I lack the handy gene. Only cussing moment was when battery terminal nut and screw fell into the abyss...lol.

 

With a 2015 DL650 I assume the kit is the "H4 Dual Headlight Relay Kit" with my choice of the H4 coupler or Posilock connectors? And the "Main Lead Connection" option being "With Fuseholder - Battery connect", since I don't have EB's PC8 fuse panel. Otherwise you could get the "Bare Wire Ends. Fuse Panel connect" option.

I'm looking to install heated grips and from what I hear the 2015 DL650 has the same issue as previous generations in that there are no relays in the main ignition circuit. Putting heated grips on the OEM heated grips connector will amplify this problem, as will leveraging the AUX connector for a 12v power socket.

Is the above accurate?

Question: If I order the H4 Dual Headlight Relay Kit, will that remove enough load from the main ignition circuit to safely leverage the OEM Heated Grip Connector for a pair of Oxford heated grips (spec'd at no more than 4A)?

 

My '04 with nigh on 90K miles never had a problem other than the lights are set low. I just added the EB wiring kit so i hope to experience more light at night.
I'm hoping this will prevent premature switch failure!

 

Webfors, the relays that help are headlight relays, not ignition relays. Using the heated grips connector for grips has nothing to do with that and will not add to the problem. The only caution on the AUX connector is it has a maximum capacity of 3A. Don't overload it or you will burn out the ignition fuse.

Notacop, the '04 doesn't have a start switch headlight bypass switch. That started in '05. Adding headlight relays will protect other connectors that sometimes cause problems and add about 1V to the headlight voltage, a noticeable amount in brightness.

 

I lost only my low beam last Friday. Today, I found the white connector on top of the left side of the radiator had a burnt connection where the white/blue wire connected to the white wire. The area was obviously burnt. I tried to get the individual pin connectors out, but I was unsuccessful. I ended up soldering in a jumper to bypass the connector.
I am not happy with the repair, but it works for now. I will begin researching a more professional repair...

 

Luckily, I found no evidence of heating/melting of the connector assembly on my 08 Wee when I finally got around to installing the Eastern Beaver Relay Kit at 23K miles. The EB kit does make the already outstanding Wee headlights noticeably brighter!

 

Can anybody tell me if the EB headlight relay kit would have prevented my connector terminal from overheating? Also, will adding the kit now "remove" my jumper repair?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Headlight relays will prevent heat damage to connectors. It's a vaccine though, not a cure. Once a connector is damaged, it needs to be fixed.

 

running into the issue now where every now and then my headlights don't come on until I flick the hi/low switch..I have a relay kit installed..pushing the starter button again doesn't fix it so wondering if anyone has a fix or where I should start looking..it's not a huge deal but I like to fix things lol..is there a stock relay for the headlights? maybe it's getting tired..also will check the multi-connector in the fairing and see if I can locate anything..thanks

 

Did you try cleaning the contacts at the starter button and/or hi/low switch?

..Tom

 

There are no stock relays. Is the relay clicking when you turn on the ignition though the headlights are still off? If so, you need to replace the relay. If not, the stock wiring may have became marginal before the relay kit was installed and that needs to be addressed though the relay may still be the culprit.

 

Thanks for the reply..when it happens there is no click from the relays..I'm pretty sure they aren't getting the signal to switch..because they click over just fine when the hi/lo switch is toggled..I checked the connector in the left fairing and it's perfectly fine..no scorch marks or any corrosion..maybe this weekend i'll remove the tank and airbox and look at the connector above the radiator..or maybe i'll just live with it..doesn't seem like too big of an issue..

 

The hi/lo switch is rarely a problem. The starter switch contacts lead the list with connector blocks next.

 

ok cool..thanks man

 

Just an update..went after the connector under the gas tank..found many/all connections had that white hard corrosion on them..cleaned them all up as best as I could and re-assembled..have not had the issue with my lights yet (3+weeks), so I assume it was the issue..I used to get the "no lights" once every 2-3 days..

 

Adding an anti corrosion chemical like ACF-50 or DeOxit will help even more. Relays are still the best idea.

 

thanks greywolf..I do have relays, but this happened before I took ownership of the bike and added them I guess..easy fix and should be good for awhile now..

 

total headlight failure...connector on top left radiator shroud 2014 model....why does these fail

 

total headlight failure...connector on top left radiator shroud 2014 model....why does these fail

You being serious? LOL